ryanherington

You're a moron. Typing in caps proves this, along with asking about B20's. I can't even begin to count how many times it's been asked.

BAD4DR

I hope you listen to this guy. He really knows what he's talking about, since the B20 sleeves are quite a bit thicker than a Stock B18......

A CTR crank would work, if you want a big bore B16......
The ITR crank you mention....well...... I want to see you fit the rods on it!

If you're looking to turn higher RPM, I highly recommend starting with Rods that have good bolts in them. You'll also need some good aftermarket valvetrain components, or you'll be putting valves through the tops of the pistons..... Not to mention, to actually make power in that RPM range, you're going to need more compression (aftermarket pistons, or a turbocharger) and cams to take advantage of it. Let's not forget you'll need performance exhaust, a good turbo manifold or header, and let's not leave out the fact you'll needs some serious upgrades on the intake side if you want to breathe at that RPM. You're also going to need quaility port-work to take advantage of that......

That answer your questions?

CivicGSR00t

Thank you,

It sounds like alot. I just bought the car like it is, I didnt do the swap, its a B20B w/ SI head, & a Victor X intake manifold.
I just want to make it better, the reason why I inquired about the ITR & CTR crank swap was because I was told that the B20 dosent allow high revs, so I thought swapping the crank was a good idea, but now I know that is not.

In all, I just want to keep it simple, all motor, decent fast ride. And I can only work with what I have In-Hand for now.

Thanks for the good info...

xeno

get a b20 crank and have it micropolished knife edged and balanced, arp rod bolts. arp headstuds and either a 92 gsr tranny or a b16 cable tranny if you plan to do all motor, use the ls if you plan to go forced induction or put in some high compression components. chipped ecu with all this shit and a good tune and you can make power all the way up to 8,200 you wouldnt really be doing anything past that with the stock cams. sleeving is a good idea but not really neccasary unless your going forced induction or high compression trying to run the rpm's up to 9 ... if you can be happy with say 8,200 then you can just do what i said to the crank , rod bolts headstuds the tranny chipped ecu and a tune...

xeno

oo and dont forget a crank girdle

CivicGSR00t

I was looking up on GIRDLES and reading on them, since to be honest i've never heard of that before, I saw some on ebay ranging in prices from $145 to $500. Reading thru them there wasn't much difference on the spec's. Does it really matter? Is my question.

And if I may dare ask.... Can someone explaing the Stroke/Ratio subject?

Thanks

quick26

idealy, you want a motor to be somewhat square, meaning that the bore and the stroke are close to the same. you get a short stroke, big bore it will rev QUICK but you will make no torque. the longer the stroke the more torque you will make but most of the time the motor will not rev as quick. you combine a long stroke and a big bore and you will have a long broad torque curve with good hp numbers as well. there is a little more to it than what i just posted but that is the jist of it.

quick26

here is a little better discription of what i was trying to say.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroke_ratio

A piston engine is oversquare or shortstroke if its cylinders have a greater bore (width, diameter) than stroke (length of piston travel). This is generally considered to be a positive trait, since a shorter stroke means less friction and less stress on the crankshaft. An oversquare engine is generally more reliable, wears less, and can be run at a higher speed; though with the aid of modern technology, the disadvantages of undersquare or longstroke engines have been overcome. In oversquare engines power does not suffer, but low-speed torque does to some degree, since torque is relative to crank throw (distance from the crank center to the piston pin center)—the leverage, essentially. An oversquare engine cannot have as high a compression ratio as a similar engine with a lower bore/stroke ratio, and using the same octane fuel.[citation needed] This causes the oversquare engine to have poorer fuel economy, and somewhat poorer exhaust emissions.[citation needed] Engines can be modified by being "de-stroked", shortening the stroke to increase maximum rpms and top-end horsepower, at the expense of low-end torque.

Oversquare or shortstroke engines have a tendency to overheat[citation needed], but modern designs usually compensate for this tendency. Oversquare engines are lighter and shorter than similar undersquare engines along the direction of piston travel, but they are wider in directions perpendicular to piston travel. As the length is not a large problem, these engine types are highly favored by many manufacturers because of their power and compact size.

Formula One engines have a bore to stroke ratio of approximately 2.5:1 and are capable of revving to 19,000 rpm


A piston engine is undersquare or longstroke if its cylinders have a smaller bore (width, diameter) than stroke (length of piston travel). This can be a negative trait, since a longer stroke usually means greater friction, more stress on the crankshaft, and a smaller bore means smaller valves which restricts gaseous exchange; however, with the aid of modern technology, these are not the large problems that they used to be. An undersquare engine usually has a lower redline than an oversquare one, but it may generate more low-end torque. In addition, a longstroke or undersquare engine can have a higher compression ratio with the same octane fuel compared to a similar displacement engine with a higher bore/stroke ratio. This also equals better fuel economy and somewhat better emissions. An undersquare engine does not overheat as easily as similar oversquare engine. Engines can be modified with a "stroker" crankshaft, which increases an engines stroke from stock, increasing torque.

Undersquare engines typically are, proportionally, shorter in length, heavier, and taller than equivalent oversquare ones, which is one of the reasons why this type of engine is not generally used.

Many British automobile companies used undersquare designs through the 1950s, largely because of a motor tax system that taxed cars by their cylinder bore. Therefore, many of the most famous cars of that era use this design. This includes the Austin A-Series engine and many Nissan derivatives.

The Chrysler Slant-6, in the most common 225 cubic inch (3.7 L) version, is a massively undersquare engine with a 3.40" (86 mm) bore and a 4.125" (105 mm) stroke, producing most of its power right on the peak of its torque curve. The achilles heel of this engine, otherwise known for its exceptional durability, is being over-revved by inexperienced drivers. Red line for a factory engine is under 4,500 rpm; red line with aftermarket connecting rods is about 5,500 rpm. On the other hand, a well-maintained Slant-6 can be made to idle as low as 75 rpm (though this is *not* a recommended speed, neither the alternator nor the oil pump will function adequately). In some circles, the Slant-6 is nicknamed "The Stump-Puller" for its diesel-like low-speed torque. Appropriate gearing and driving skill is required for performance use.

Willys also used mostly undersquare engines, in fact the L134 and F134 engines, with their fairly small 3.125 inch (79.4 mm) bore and 4.375 inch (111.1 mm) stroke, are probably the most undersquare engines ever built.

Nowadays, undersquare engines tend to be quite rare, but this form of engine is still used in some applications. For example, a modern 8.4 liter Valmet 645 inline-6 tractor diesel engine is a longstroke/undersquare engine, but has an output of over 300 horsepower (224 kW) with turbocharger and intercooler. The popular Mazda Miata also uses an undersquare engine.

BAD4DR

I'll give you a bit more to think about.
Keeping everything else the same (rod ratio, exhaust, etc.)

2.0L Displacement 1929.33 cc
Estimated power

85 bore x 85 stroke
175 hp at 7600 RPM peak.
137 lb-ft at 6300 RPM
(170+ hp from 6700 to 8000 RPM)

90 bore x 75.82 stroke
176 hp at 7300 RPM peak
139 lb-ft at 6300
(170+ hp from 6400 - 8500 RPM)

80 bore x 95.96 stroke
169 hp at 7300 RPM
134 lb-ft at 6100 RPM
(Never makes 170 hp on this setup.)

Simply put, the serious under-square, in the same configuration, same displacement, makes less peak torque, and less peak power.

The only major advantages, are that you get far superior emissions with the long stroke engine!

ChokolAwt

so you did come back? hehe...

pictures?