b16 or itr head?
i just got a head from a friend and i was wondering if its an itr head.
the head has pr3-4 stamped on it and i know thats just the casting number.
ive looked for the green paint below the dizzy but the head has been cleaned before also the head has been ported and polished buy previos owner
i was told to look at the date stamps and i dont understand them
9/9 1/3 1/2 0/6 thats what is stamped on the head.
thanks in advance.
the head has pr3-4 stamped on it and i know thats just the casting number.
ive looked for the green paint below the dizzy but the head has been cleaned before also the head has been ported and polished buy previos owner
i was told to look at the date stamps and i dont understand them
9/9 1/3 1/2 0/6 thats what is stamped on the head.
thanks in advance.
It really doesn't matter what it starts out life as. If it's been ported and polished and any of the parts have been changed, you're not dealing with the same animal anymore. Use it and enjoy it and don't worry about what it used to be, either head is a good starting place for a good engine build.
It really doesn't matter what it starts out life as. If it's been ported and polished and any of the parts have been changed, you're not dealing with the same animal anymore. Use it and enjoy it and don't worry about what it used to be, either head is a good starting place for a good engine build.
I'm just saying that once you change valves, cams, etc., and port and polish, you've got a ITR head anyway.. Supposedly they're the same base casting with some extra work done to the ITR head (and different cams, etc) at the factory.
Ok, let me be far more specific:
PR3-4 B16A2 / B18C5
PR3-2 B16A
Though the way I would tell if buying is to look for green paint near the distributor (underside/rear) and looking in the intake chambers. But, if the head has been "touched" in any way, it all really doesn't matter.
PR3-4 B16A2 / B18C5
PR3-2 B16A
Though the way I would tell if buying is to look for green paint near the distributor (underside/rear) and looking in the intake chambers. But, if the head has been "touched" in any way, it all really doesn't matter.
Ok, let me be far more specific:
PR3-4 B16A2 / B18C5
PR3-2 B16A
Though the way I would tell if buying is to look for green paint near the distributor (underside/rear) and looking in the intake chambers. But, if the head has been "touched" in any way, it all really doesn't matter.
PR3-4 B16A2 / B18C5
PR3-2 B16A
Though the way I would tell if buying is to look for green paint near the distributor (underside/rear) and looking in the intake chambers. But, if the head has been "touched" in any way, it all really doesn't matter.
i know what yall are telling me. but i still want to know what the head originaly was cuz if i decide to sell it i need to beable to tell them what it is. you can sell a b16 for around $300 and an itr for around $400 just cuz of the name. the green paint is gone if it was there in the first place, and the head has been p and p by previous owner. i was told i could tell by the date stamps but i dont understand what they mean. so if anyone can just let me know if its itr or b16 or b17 cuz all of them are pr3-whatever, i would greatly apreciate it. thanks
Last edited by spider228; Jul 25, 2008 at 08:12 PM.
If it has been properly ported and polished, then it doesnt make a difference what it started as, unless you're using the stock valvetrain. If someone is willing to pay $100 more for what it -originally- was, then I've got a bridge I would like to sell them.
It's all about the current flow of the head (and whether or not the exhaust has been polished and if so what has been done to promote air/fuel mixture though many believe polished = god no matter what so).
It's all about the current flow of the head (and whether or not the exhaust has been polished and if so what has been done to promote air/fuel mixture though many believe polished = god no matter what so).




