Doing an SR swap to my 240. Was eventually planning a stand alone but am now thinking I will go ahead and do it at the same time as the swap(means my suspension goes on the back burner for a while). After a little research I am leaning heavily towards the AEM EMS setup.

What I am looking for here is

1. Does anyone on here have it and if so what are their likes and dislikes.

2. Is it really that much better to go with the UEGO version(i'm stupid when it comes to this)

Any other points are welcome. Just trying to cover all my bases before i shell out this kinda dough.

Thanks in advance for your time guys

 

The UEGO version is a wideband O2 sensor version as opposed to a narrowband. If you can swing it, get it. It won't be much different for everyday driving but it will be a little more accurate fuel control and a lot more accurate when it comes to logging air/fuel ratio..

 

Well by not getting my coilovers and not having to get a boost controller I can swing it. Could you possibly explain the diffrence for me. I'm guessing in lamen terms if i used a spectrum as an example it would be like breaking the spectrum up into finer divisions? i dunno..like I said i'm a retard when it comes to this shite

 

you are getting it for performance, so you want the wideband.

AEM EMS is the shit. It's the most cost-effective standalone out there in my opinion. It can do damn near anything most people will ever need it to do and more, and it's simpler to use than some of the more complicated standalones as well.

 

+1

 

Yeah, EMS is the way to go. Base maps included and you can switch to a Speed Density (MAP) set up later.

 

The difference is in the accuracy of the oxygen sensor. Stock (narrowband) o2 sensors aren't very accurate or precise , so when it comes to making measurements of what your air/fuel ratio is, an inaccurate sensor is going to give you an inaccurate measurement obviously. One of the biggest problems is that they have a small range (band) of air/fuel values for which they are accurate, and then they really suck outside of that range (so they're called 'narrowband'). Wideband o2 sensors have much greater accuracy and precision to begin with, and they have that accuracy and precision over a much broader range of air/fuel values. This is why they are much more useful for tuning and datalogging. It's useless if you're making engine control adjustments based on inaccurate measurements that aren't really precise (repeatable) and it's almost as bad if you're trying to tune off of the datalogging info with crappy o2 sensor readings. You have a performance car, you should have performance sensors.\

By the way, have you ever looked at the BikiRom USB boards from Australia? They're like the Hondata of Nissan stuff and the hardware is really nice.. 1/10 of the cost of the AEM too, although no direct wideband support (still uses the stock ECU narrowband input as far as I know)..

 

if your going to be using a mild setup i would just do some jwt ecu and an apex afc along with around 720cc injectors AEM is probably one of the most incredible stand alones for a street or full race vehicle however it is not user friendly and there are only about a hand full of us that can use it properly around the area. just my input being someone that uses aem in all of my vehicles

 

Wow I was told just the opposite. I was told that the AEM was one of the more user friendly, and that the were quite a few people in the area that were quite good at tuning with it. I was originially at the Apex-i Power FC and commander and was told that there were very few if any people in the area that could tune with it.

Like I said earlier, I am dumb when it comes to this stuff so I am just going by word of mouth

 

Of the standalones, the AEM is one of the most user friendly, yes.
I would get a BikiRom board waaay before I'd go with a JWT ECU. The BikiRom boards are $221 dollars US (less than half of a one-time JWT tune if I remember correctly), the software is free, and you can tune it yourself or get someone to tune it for you. I really hate piggyback controllers, and would steer clear of them. I never like to trick an ECU into behaving like it's supposed to, which is what a piggyback does.
The ultimate tuning solution would be the AEM unit, but it's also the most expensive. If you're going for budget and still want a super flexible setup, something like the BikiRom board would be on the top of my list. Installation inside the ECU isn't a walk in the park, but it's a snap for a professional electronics tech like myself.
I'm a little partial to the stock ECU modifications, there is a lot of development time put into the stock hardware and the stock program, so remapping the stock program will get you an ECU that runs beautifully for pretty cheap. I just find it hard to justify spending the money on an AEM unit for anything less than a highly modified engine.