94XRolla

hey, i have an UNGO ms850 (old) alarm, i installed today because i needed somethin (to many kids around here, and to much to lose) but anyway... the car has power door locks, when i arm the system, the doors wont lock, when i disarm the system, they unlock, however, when i hook up my function 1 ( negative lead ) to the lock wire, and press it, the doors lock... they just dont read the charge from the master unit ... according to the diagram for the alarm, theres 2 wires for lock/unlock ... as follows :
White w/blue stripe = (-)unlock/(+)lock
White w/green stripe = (-)lock/(+)unlock

the white with blue stripe is what i have hooked up to the unlock wire, which works, and if i hook it to the lock wire, that works fine too, the white w/green stripe is what wont work anything, im assuming the charge..
the function 1 wire is Yellow w/white stripe.. Aux (-) output
anyone dealt with this? i dont want to pay 100+ dollars to have this old alarm installed when i bought it for 60 including installation in my old car... im guessing the polarity needs to be reversed or somethin.... i need help! post here or email me, ccrashxburn@aol.com

ToyotaTechGeek

we used to have to do unlock/lock wires as a twisted pair in some instances. don't wanna say that it will cure your probs, just check to see if your doors only require a single pulse (e.g.; if you have alternate action impulse relays in the door lock system).

94XRolla

uh, damn i thought i knew electronics too... lol ... when i pull the driver side lock unlock power window control panel out, the unit is one assembly, only wires are in the plug the connects it to the car .. the whole unit is a bunch of flat metal pieces, and i played in that too, touching a single bare wire to carious combinations of the 4 flat metal bars coming from what looks to be the underside of the lock unlock switch would actuate the unlock or lock, depending which 2 bars i touched together... so it seems to me theres a constant 12v + going into it, and the switch operates by grounding itself... not sure...... but i know my alarm has a mode for 4 pulse unlocking ... just doesnt say that applies to the locking... i thought about going out tomorrow (to late tonight to chirp the neighbors to death in programming mode) and set the jumper to 4 pulse, see if that works... but with what you are talking about just in case, twisting the wires together, which ones, the alarm wires going to the lock unlock wires, or the lock unlock wires themselves? im willing to try anything to save some money at this point

94XRolla

also, i have the haynes manual for my car, thats how i did mostly everything, but it doesnt say, or i didnt see, if i have negative and positive leads in the harness for the cars locks, or just the single polarity leads (one positive, one negative) is there anywhere to get this kind of diagram from online, or am i pretty much stuck if its not in the haynes manual?

94XRolla

let me see if this helps... according to the haynes book, the driver door master lock switch terminal and continuity guide looks like this

Pin/Terminal 1/2 3 4
..........Lock o-----o
Off blank
.......Unlock o---o

ToyotaTechGeek

yeah, most Toyota acessories (as well as many other car companies) apply +12vdc as a constant, then 'throw' a -12vdc signal as a trigger. you used to have to twist the lock&unlock wires of the alarm wires themselves to get this to work. i don't know anything about the 4 phase (unless that's fancy for the type of realy that i described) lock actuator. yeah, and those relays were the shiz for doing linear actuator work. not only that, it made doing anything remotely cool possible before things changed...you don't have to make anything in the electronic world anymore, you just have to stroke a check! yeah, the electronics thing, i was among the very first certified mobile electronic techs in the HR area. did a few really big competitions and got pretty bored with the whole thing. so, i started building racecars! it's been fun.