i dont know what in the F*** is going on. my car keeps randomly dyin on me. itll hesitate then die or sometimes correct itself. i took it to the shop and he cant figure it out either. we though it was the wires near the ecu because the idle was fucked up(hunting) then we played wiht the wires tryin to see if we could short it out and make the car die. it would die sometimes but miraculously the idle was normal. but still hunts a lil. i just got the car back he said the cars hasnt given him any problems and he been driving it around for and been runnin for 4-5 hours. nothing. well i drive it to work and it started to hesitate again. i need help.

also my car is puttin out extra fuel and burning it(black smoke and leakin from exhuast. he said i need a tune since i have a LS swap with I/H/E. could this be the problem?

 

no engine light? make sure the bulb is working too (turn key to the 2nd notch. the light should come on then turn off.) usually when a cell is set off the ecu will run rich, just to be on the safe side so the engine doesnt detonate.

dont think you need a tune, never heard of anyone with just basic bolts on in need of a tune since the ecu will have a basic map and will do very slight adjustments for those type of things. you will need a tune if you do any major upgrades ie turbo or all motor work.

how is it dying? you start it up, its bogs for a min then turns off? or you drive around and it cuts off. rough idle could be a number of things.

id start off with a basic tune up, ie spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, ect. b/c those are easy and cheap to replace and they are associated with a bad idle.

other sugguestion of what the idle could be is a bad alternator, fuel injectors are clogged, bad fuel pump (if bad idle occurs with less than 1/4 tank of gas)

how low is the idle? its should be 750rpm. also check the idle screw located on on top of the inlet of the throttle body. somebody might have tampered with the screw if it is lower than that. it is really easy to tell b/c the white wax on the screw must be broken inorder to adjust the idle. if you need to adjust it to bring it back it. you first warm up the car. and turn the screw counterclock wise to turn it up and clockwise to lower it. 1/4 turn every min! so warm it up, turn 1/4, then wait 1 min for the ecu to adjust the maps to the new idle. and repeat until you reach about 750rpm

i recommend researching further on honda tech. good luck and updates us on your progress

 

1>well the cel light does work it does like you say i know that for sure.

2>the car does run rich...to the point where fuel is leakin from my exhaust because the smoke is black and fuel deposits are all over the back of my car.

3>the car dies will die out while driving and sometimes just sittin in idle. what ive noticed is that while im in gear itll like jerk/hesitate then die and when im out of gear or take it out of gear while its jerking/hesitating itll just die.

4>i have changed the spark plugs, cap and rotor. while changing the spark plugs we noticed a cupping sound and found out my third and 4th cylinders had oil/fuel mix so i replaced the gasket and grommets. i havent changed the plug wires or fuel filter yet so ill do that next.

5> the idle is bad no matter how full the gas tank is. i think the fuel pump work because of the excess fuel like i said above. i ran some injector cleaner in the car so i think they are ok. i dont know about the alternator.

6>the idle screw has been played with it idles when it decides to act right at around that 750-800 rpms.

the mechanic thats been tryin to figure it out is at advance honda specialists and he is positive it is a electrical problem. im not so sure anymore. ive already had to replace my ignition lock assembly because he thought thats what it was. the second time i brought it back for the same issues he had an electrical guy come and they found out my relay was gettin hot so they moved some wires he said. it runs a little better but it was hesitating on my way to work the next night so i brought it back to him the next morning. so i dont know. ive been lookin all other forums i can think of for a solution.

 

just bought a car today that did the same thing long story short it was the throttle sensor. its a oem part so hope this help

 

The leaking from the exaust is not fuel it is condensation. It is most likley the igniton module/coil. It could also be a few other things like the electrial portion of the ign. swith. Or the main fuel relay. One other thing you can check is the ground on the thermostat housing. But like i said before change the dist. assembly and see if that helps.

 

yea check yr grounds and put a meter on ur dizzy and ohm it out

 

well the little spring thats sticks out was bent wen we took the cap and rotor off so we bent it back....

 

a simple five minute check with a labscope will tell you exactly what is going on, provided you have someone that is somewhat competent (read: not a parts changer) operating it.

checked the CTS? is the coolant level full? whats the TPS voltage at idle, and have you done a sweep test? voltage drop test on the 2 engine grounds? checked for stray AC voltage? plugs, wires, and fuel filter aint going to fix this issue.

 

well i got the car back today. the guy said the car totally died today and it wasnt gettin spark. so he changed the ignition coil and module i think and she starts right up. the idle still is fucked up and that bothers me cuz sometimes it feels itll die out.

btw wats CTS its on the tip of my tongue.

 

Dont kno if you fixed it or not but it sounds like the distributer, my hatch did dat shit,itd start up and run fine til it was warmed up the it cut off like someone turned the key off.Or if i was driving down the road itd cut off to.So i replaced the whole distributer and its componets never had a problem again.