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koni yellow/gc problem

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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 04:33 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by stinks
yes if the spring moves with in the pearch it fails inspection...... i will scan my book and show you
How would a spring move within the perch when the car is sitting on the ground?
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

it wouldnt you have to jack it up.....
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 05:03 PM
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

im not talking about the nuts that keep the shock/strut to the frame im talkign about the nuts that are threaded on the shock pole that are secured to the tophat...
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by civickid03
im not talking about the nuts that keep the shock/strut to the frame im talkign about the nuts that are threaded on the shock pole that are secured to the tophat...
And there's two of them. You tighten both down and they lock in place.
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by stinks
it wouldnt you have to jack it up.....
So all aftermarket springs that are shorter than stock and are used with stock length struts would not pass inspection, so no aftermarket spring would pass unless the spring has a helper spring or a section of coils with a lower spring rate (either of which would go into coil bind and be useless as a spring) to achieve the stock length? That says that the only way to pass inspection with a shorter aftermarket spring would be to use a shorter (aftermarket) strut to limit the amount of suspension travel when the car is jacked up and the suspension is unloaded and at full droop?
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 05:33 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by elambz
And there's two of them. You tighten both down and they lock in place.
i think hes talking about the one on the strut, with the hex hole on top
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 05:47 PM
  #27  
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by Fabrik8
So all aftermarket springs that are shorter than stock and are used with stock length struts would not pass inspection, so no aftermarket spring would pass unless the spring has a helper spring or a section of coils with a lower spring rate (either of which would go into coil bind and be useless as a spring) to achieve the stock length? That says that the only way to pass inspection with a shorter aftermarket spring would be to use a shorter (aftermarket) strut to limit the amount of suspension travel when the car is jacked up and the suspension is unloaded and at full droop?
yep....
ive seen some one use a limiting strap before...... i dont know it that will pass though
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #28  
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by atmdc
i think hes talking about the one on the strut, with the hex hole on top
yes...who cares about inspection yall are getting off topic...
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 06:43 PM
  #29  
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by stinks
yep....
ive seen some one use a limiting strap before...... i dont know it that will pass though

That would also imply that most threaded body coilovers would not pass inspection either, because their change in spring length under static compression (car sitting on the ground) is less than their adjustment range. Therefore somewhere in their adjustment range the spring won't be fully seated under while under full droop. If that isn't the case, the springs must be either really soft or they would get severely preloaded at the highest adjustment (the damper wouldn't be able to extend enough so the spring would have to compress to adjust further). If the spring is preloaded, the entire suspension travel (under droop) would be the amount that the spring compresses under static load (car on the ground under its own weight). Some coilovers are like that, many aren't.

I'm still not convinced if you can't tell already.

Last edited by Fabrik8; Jul 23, 2009 at 06:47 PM.
Old Jul 23, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Default Re: koni yellow/gc problem

Originally Posted by civickid03
yes...who cares about inspection yall are getting off topic...
Sorry. Back on track for a little while.


Originally Posted by civickid03
im not talkignm about the nuts on top of the tophat im talking about the single nut that holds the shock to the tophat...tighten it down with the weight of the car on it?
The weight of the car won't ever be on that shaft. The weight of the car is on the springs, and the springs aren't inside the shock pushing on the shock shaft.

The shaft nut that goes onto the tophat is fine either way, but you can doublecheck it once the whole assembly is attached to the car if it you want. It doesn't matter really, the only thing pressing the tophat onto the nut is whatever force is inside the damper itself (not the spring force), which is nothing compared to the force that the nut/shaft threads can apply when tightening by hand. If you can compress the damper by hand without the spring on it, that's the force it pushes on the nut with.

Last edited by Fabrik8; Jul 23, 2009 at 07:17 PM.



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