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2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

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Old 03-27-2013, 03:21 PM
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Default 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

SOLD





THIS POST IS LONG. I spent an hour and a half at least typing it. Please read it before you text/call/pm me.


Update: I'm busy at work so I had my roommate take some pictures and do a cold start video.

Also, I have several parts that can be included if the car sells for the right price. I have a new front crash beam and a used power steering pump.


I bought this Evo late last year around September just because of the price. I already had a turbocharged S2000 but I have always loved evos and wanted to experience one. I go through cars (I have owned 16 so far) often due to a variety of reasons: I'm 21, love experiencing new cars, often get bored of them quickly, and have the job/money to fuel my addiction.

The car was advertised as being in good condition with a little bit of rub in the rear and a lot of aftermarket parts installed properly with the car having been maintained/tuned by performance shops. The seller had maintenance records that he passed along that I will pass along to back up most of his statements and the car typically reflected what he said it had. The car looks decently put together but there are some areas where ghettoness and shortcuts are visible. I didn't really care because I was planning on fixing it as time went on.

I am selling it because I would like to buy a house and I already bought an E39 M5 that is fulfilling pretty much everything I need from a car at the moment. It's comfortable and spacious with lots of room, it handles well and has a decent amount of power, and it is incredibly fun and easy to be a hooligan and do sustained power slides with torque left to spare.

I would also like to say that my pricing is fairly firm. I will not refuse a reasonable offer but I am also not broke nor am I at the point where the car is a headache I want to get rid of.

So...on to the car.

2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX GSR - 75,000 miles. Clear title in hand.
Asking Price: $15,500 OBO
Not interested in lowballs. The money is definitely there in this car.
Trades: Open to trades, mainly looking for a daily + cash or even a bike + cash
Location: Near Arundel Mills Mall in Hanover, MD
Contact: 240-seven five zero-0579

Modifications:
Power
  • Buschur 3582r Turbo
  • Buschur Ported Manifold
  • Tial 44MM Wastegate -- some sort of custom dump tube
  • Forge manual boost controller
  • Autometer boost gauge (steering column)
  • "Open ECU tune by Matt @ Spec Ops 340whp/3XXftlb" (has dyno sheets)
    -----I am not sure why the car dyno'd this low. I now have an E39 M5 and I ran it against the Evo and the Evo pulled on it pretty hard and without issue. I suspect the dyno it was dyno'd on reads low.
  • Full 3" exhaust turbo back
  • HKS Carbon Ti Muffler
  • SpoolinUp Non-CDI coilpack kit w/carbon plug cover
  • SMC methanol injection w/ #7 nozzle, 1 gallon tank mounted in trunk
  • Odyssey Battery w/ appropriate bracket
  • Buschur UICP
  • AEM V2 intake
  • Greddy Type-S BOV
  • CBRD radiator/SPAL fan
  • Buschur intercooler
  • 740cc RC Injectors
  • HKS 276 cams
  • Walbro 255lph fuel pump
  • Exedy twin disk clutch
  • AEM Fuel Rail

Turning/Stopping/Starting
  • Tein 2 point front strut bar
  • Tein Super Street Coilovers
  • Front and rear fenders rolled flat
  • Whiteline swaybars
  • Hawk HPS pads
  • Rebuilt OEM calipers
  • Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
  • 18x9 +15 Work Emotion 11R Glim Silver wheels
  • Nitto NT555 255/35/18 all around -- 80% tread but rub wear on rears

Aesthetic/Toys/Others
  • JDM Evo 8 Headlights - added by me
  • Carbon Fiber cam gear cover and radiator shroud
  • Blacked out side markers
  • Authentic JDM rear bumper
  • Wingless trunk (from silver Lancer) w/ Rexpeed duckbill spoiler
  • Alcantera covered headliner and pillars
  • Carbon fiber radio surround
  • Special Edition interior in really good shape
  • 60k mile maintenance w/ new water pump/tbelt/tensioner/serpentine belt
  • All fluids ACD/Diff/Tranny changed and diff/tranny refilled with redline fluids

That is how I got the car, here is the work I have performed on the vehicle while I have had it.

Work Done
  • Oil change with mobil1 0w-40 ran with seafoam for several hundred miles
  • Oil change with shell rotella T5 5w-40 ran for 5000 miles
  • Oil change with royal purple 5w-30 and bosch distanceplus filter just done < 100 miles ago
  • Boost leak test revealed several leaks which I resolved. I replaced injector seals with OEM, reseated/tightened several couplers, resealed the meth tap on the UICP, replaced a few vacuum lines, and reseated/gasketed the oil return line at the oil pan (it was leaking under boost).
  • The turbo outlet pipe was rubbing on the radiator and rubbed a small pinhole on the bottom corner -- I took the radiator out and had the hole professionally welded by Autofab off Route 1.
  • I replaced the turbo coolant return line
  • I had Mark @ Raail pull the rear fenders (they were already rolled) and I raised the car to make the wheels clear a little better. They now do not rub with just one person in the car.
  • I had Mark @ Raail do a compression test on the motor and he got 144-142-140-138. Oil did not increase compression. I was a little concerned about cylinder number 4 but after discussing it with Mark we came to the conclusion that the tiny Odyssey battery no longer had enough charge to spin the motor as fast by the time we got to the 4th cylinder.
  • Following up with the above I did a leakdown test and all four cylinders read below 5%, I heard/felt no air coming from the intake/exhaust. I did feel a little bit of air from cyl#3 while testing #4 but moving the crank pulley forward until I was at TDC again made it go away.
  • I am sure there is more minor stuff that I cannot think of at the moment

Outstanding Issues
  • P0011 - This code comes on around 3300-3900RPM under cruise/light throttle. I have datalogged it and I have yet to see it while the engine is under load. P0011 indicates an issue with MIVEC. I have changed the intake cam sensor, flipped the cam trigger wheel, and pulled out the oil feeder control valve/solenoid. The solenoid clicked and moved when tested with the battery. I have also tried advancing/retarding timing a few degrees in the idle cells and cam lope definitely increases/decreases so the MIVEC system does in fact work. I have also noticed that different oils affect how long it takes the code to reappear. This leads me to believe that either the OCV is intermittently faulty OR the MIVEC gear/passageways have some gunk in them. My next path was to use carb cleaner and compressed air to blow out passageways and possibly remove/clean the MIVEC gear. I have checked mechanical timing and it is dead on at the marks -- although there is always the possibility that the cam install was not done properly (the cam lock pin could be inserted incorrectly causing the cams to be out of phase with the cam gears). That being said I have no reason to believe valves have come into contact with pistons -- the car does still pull like a freight train and hits full spool around 4200RPM. It will also get 25-30mpg without any issues.
  • HVAC Controls - The temperature selection knob works but it definitely is getting rough and I would highly recommend that you grease the cable/get revised gears for the 25-30 bucks it will cost you. The VENT selection knob became really weird a few weeks ago and will not let you go to the left past feet. I have taken the cable off and the gear goes all the way and does change the heat properly so I suspect it is a bent/kinked cable.
  • Wheels- Three out of the four wheels have a bit of curb rash on the lip, approximately a 3-4 degree arc on each. One wheel (not the non-curbed one) has a small bend in the lip that is slightly visible. The car rides well and does not shake.
  • Water/Meth- Is not hooked up and has not been hooked up since ~55-60k miles. The seller told me the car was putting out 442whp (and has dyno sheets to prove this) and the pump broke. He disconnected the pump and had it retuned without meth. I don't believe in water meth so I have not made even the lightest effort to make it work.
  • Viper Alarm- The viper alarm install was done poorly and although everything works (remote start included) I was planning on going in and redoing all of the wiring. The purple tach sense wire is wired to one of the injector harnesses.
  • AC- The system does not blow cold air. I have investigated: system is charged, all pressure switches work, compressor receives power and on signal. The problem is the A/C clutch -- if you hit it with a hammer while A/C is on it catches and starts working. The resolution for this is a new compressor, a new clutch (hard to find), or a different shim behind the pulley (cheapest and easiest).
  • Power Steering- The power steering works well but once the car has been driving around it begins to make some noise when you turn the wheel with the car stationary. No noise when you are driving around on the highway, mostly noticed when you are parallel parking.
  • Accident damage- Someone hit me head on at about 5-10mph two months ago. he hit my passenger side avoiding the bumper reinforcement and managed to make it as far as the upper tie bar (the bar right above the headlight). I pulled the upper tie bar, replaced both headlights with genuine JDM Evo 8 headlights, and straightened the hood as best I could. The car is a little bit ugly but all panels line up fine and the car tracks straight. For the car to be in perfect shape you would need a new hood and a new front bumper.
  • The bumper is JDM, the exhaust is not. The exhaust touches the top of the cutout and has dug into it a little bit.
  • Highly recommend you replace the spark plugs.

All that scary stuff aside the car runs well, starts in the cold, idles in the cold, and overall has absolutely no issue driving around, doing pulls, etc. I have a tactrix cable and have updated to the latest tephra and enabled all the safety features along with flash SES on knock and the car does not knock. The tune seems decent although it seems like the tuner was a little dumb in terms of adding too much timing while running the car rich. I have not messed with the tune but if you are capable and have O2 I would recommend leaning it out a little and pulling a little bit of timing). I have lowered the boost two pounds (from 28 with a 29 spike to 26 with a 27 spike) because as it got cold out the knock count would go up every now and then. The differential makes no abnormal noises, the transmission shifts great, the car pulls hard.

Pictures

Car as purchased




Glamor Shots




Accident Damage


Here you can see the upper track bar after I straightened it -- this is before I refinished the vertical parts so that they are pretty. Also, if you look over by the bumper reinforcement you can see that some of the metal is slightly bent in. The resolution to this would be to pull it (difficult) or replace the radiator support (proper way to go).

Buttoned back up




JDM lights are sexy


Interior

Red cable is an aux cable, black one is a USB. Meth controller in the cubby.










Cold start video:

This is with the car not having been started for 1-2 weeks. Battery is low so it cranked slowly. I wish my roommate would have gone outside or ran the video longer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpAgMedWa94

I will be taking more pictures of the car with engine bay shots, interior shots, etc. Everything else on the car aesthetically is in good to very good condition. Back seats are gorgeous, passenger seat is gorgeous, driver seat has a little bit of wear on the bolsters (just leather lines -- no rips). Suede is gorgeous, etc.

Last edited by Duo Maxwell; 04-02-2013 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:56 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

Wish I had the cash Bump
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:17 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

Amazing car, very nice.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:30 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

I'm not reading all this... What's the issues with the car and what's the dyno sheet looks like?
Lmk cash in hand
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:47 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

Originally Posted by hondapaisa
I'm not reading all this... What's the issues with the car and what's the dyno sheet looks like?
Lmk cash in hand
Big section that says outstanding issues -- read the first 2 words of each.
Big section that says modifications lists mods.
336awhp 340lbft torque.

Dyno sheets are in the car I will upload them when I take additional pictures tomorrow.

Last edited by Duo Maxwell; 03-27-2013 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:54 PM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

Are you interested in an 07 Gti and turbo e30?
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:05 AM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

power steering issue is the rack and pinon....or however u write that....needs a new one.overall she looks good.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:35 AM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

Did you run this at the track last Saturday? Ran 11's if I recall
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:16 AM
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Default Re: 2006 Evo IX GSR - 75k - MD - $15.5K

Originally Posted by cansecoxrw
power steering issue is the rack and pinon....or however u write that....needs a new one.overall she looks good.
Definitely isn't the rack and pinion...the car was in no accidents prior to me owning it and this accident did not come close to touching the wheel or my oil cooler would have been damaged.

The power steering noise sounds like a whine and it gets louder if you rev it while trying to crank on the wheel stationary. It also occurs only once the engine/wastegate/turbo is hot and if you do not do any pulls it does not make the noise at all.

The heatshield that protects the pump from the heat of the turbo/wastegate/manifold is clearanced and does not serve its purpose anymore so I am assuming that the heat overheats the pump and caused it to wear.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:53 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by rsx003
Did you run this at the track last Saturday? Ran 11's if I recall
No that was another Max with a silver BR350 Evo 9 at the track Saturday
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