B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
11-20-2009, 05:49 AM
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B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Name: Jason
Location: Va Beach
Means of Contact: PM is available
Price: $1200, though I do want to see what type of offers come my way, sure..
While not forced to sell this, I need to stop being a hoarder and just let it go. This block has been determined to be one of Earl Laskey's last 50 blocks that he built. In the past I had a good deal of business with him, became good acquaintances and I've been holding on this because of his passing -- though I've come to the realization that I need to let the thing go so that it can produce the power it was intended for, otherwise, it's an injustice to Earl.
That and I'm sick of having to WD40 the cylinders twice a week (excessive? perhaps, though in a good many ways I'm anal).
First, the build (the good):
[-] B16A3 Block
[-] 84.5mm bore GEM Sleeved (Earl was reluctant, though having been a GEM distributor he understood why it was GEM sleeved and was an acquaintance, thus the reason he even touched a competitors sleeved block)
[-] Copper O-ringed
[-] Endyne Rollerwave 9.4:1 (w/ B16 head) - these were to have been coated, but a customers pistons got sent out for coating instead, about the only "downside" to this build)
[-] Pauter Titanium Rods (cryotreated -- look it up if need be)
[-] Balanced and Polished Crank (cryotreated)
[-] Endyne Modified ITR Oil Pump
[-] Endyne 3-Main Girdle (Larry and I did a good bit of business together as well)
[-] Fluidampr Damper Street Series
[-] ACT Streetlite Flywheel
[-] ACT 6 puck - unsprung clutch (was intended to be temp but... will get to that)
[-] Z10 Aluminum Oil Pan w/ Stainless Steel Pickup (pan has built in baffle)
[-] Only 660 miles on all above
Now onto the "bad":
[-] Will need new tensioner assembly (imo, I wouldn't allow a timing belt to "polish" the surface rust)
[-] Would recommend the bolts in the Fluidamp (like a $3-5 bill) which hold the pulley assembly onto the damper itself
[-] Will need disassembled, cleaned and reassembled
Now the "really bad" story of it all. It was in the break in process, in fact it's only seen SAE-30. Time had been taken with this build from the get go, with the exception of one thing and that ended up "biting me" in the ass. A brass T fitting was used off the stock oil pressure port for basemap creation. I know the basemap was sound, I made it using my Dynapack (rather, when I did have it). So, a brass T fitting was fine for the stock sensor and Defi gauges. Well, business picked up and this personal project sat on the back burner for roughly 2 weeks. I went back to it to complete the break in, driving it around with a brass T fitting that I failed to change out for to a softline. See had I treated it like a customers car, no issues would have ensued. Anyway, fast forward 660 miles, brass T fitting started cracking (due to the weight of the sensors, stiffer motor mounts, etc.) releasing oil (the crap on top of the pistons is mostly oil, it's started to lift as a result of my religious WD40'ing -- steam clean these and they'll be good to go). Once my Defi showed an oil pressure of around 20-22ish psi, I shut it down. Lifted hood, saw oil shit all over (I'm guessing Ramey had a FUN time cleaning out the engine bay of the 99 Si I sold him -- the "platform" for this engine), pissed off at my self as I had a damn good idea what happened, I grabbed a rag to feel the T fitting and that was all she wrote, the additional weight from me feeling it made it snap off completely dangling the T and two sensors.
The engine has "sat" ever since. Now for the FULL story, incase you're superstitious and it would be something that you would want to know. The precise mileage on the tripmeter at the time this happened was, 666 miles. It happened just a month (if that) after Earl Laskey passed away. Earl Laskey built this block. Not shitting you, when Ramey picked up the shell, we bullshitted and I showed him the tripmeter.
To the interested buyer, what you see (what is listed) is what you get. I'd strongly recommend a tensioner assembly replacement (pulley, spring, bolt) and water pump (it only has 666 miles on it, is authentic Honda, but, has surface rust). Where the brass T fitting snapped is fairly flush with the block. This -may- have to be drilled then tapped. I tried with an easy out, but, soon got disgusted (I've had rebuilds I've had to do due to thrown rods, refreshening, etc. but never had to rebuild due to something so trivial such as this -- it easily annoyed the piss out of me) and never touched it since. So, there ARE some brass shavings likely in that oil passage, which is why I IMPLORE the buyer to disassemble it, take care of the brass fitting, clean the block and then reassemble. EGT's were always monitored, A/F ratio was always monitored, Oil Pressure was always monitored. So, no concerns of oblonged, broken ring land, etc. crap ass motor - rest assured. Take care of the surface rusting that I mentioned, clean the block, do the re-assembly and replace the copper o-ring (had a spool of copper o-ringing wire from GEM somewhere at one time -- I likely gave it away or something as I cannot find it now -- but a spool goes for $10-15ish?) and you'll have a very expensive/nice build. Re-use of bearings and rings. The crosshatching is still there and since it's been WD40'd all the damn time, the cylinder walls are sound. But... I'm the anal type, so I would spring for the $80 set of rings. Bearings, you could drop $100 for them, but if you have a builder that pays attention to detail, this shouldn't be needed. I'm anal so I would likely drop the $100 for new ones. Whether or not you have the news ones moly coated is up to you.
I felt I disclosed all these is to know (and maybe more to where some may be strayed now to buy -- that's fine with me, I'll still be able to sleep at night knowing I didn't keep something from someone). Other questions, ask me via this thread not PM (unless its personal business/transaction type of PM --- that way others may benefit from the asking/answering of general questions).
B16A3 GEM Sleeved Block ($695, cost less for me but..)
Pauter Titanium Rods $770 (profit margin isnt that great on Pauter, forget my price)
Z10 Oil Pan ($300-350ish)
Fluidampr Damper $350
ACT Streetlite Fly $200
ACT 6 Clutch $350ish
Endyne ITR Oil Pump $270
Endyne Rollerwaves $525
Ok, thats $3460, that's good enough. So, half of that is $1730. Knock off $500 for reassembly and taking care of the minor issues/annoyance. $1230.
I will NOT break it down into parts, if I had any inclination or desire to do so, it would have been done by now. So please, don't ask.
If you don't have $1200 in hand (or can have it in hand before seeing it) don't bother PMing me. Reason for this is to ensure neither you or myself waste each others time. Yeah, that price is set in stone, unless you want to pay more, then I'll be flexible there.
My D40 is not auto-focusing for some reason (guess I'll be making that post soon asking if anyone knows why) and I'm a shit photographer. I didn't bother wiping down dust, I mean, its pointless. Have questions, ASK.
Look forward to someone helping cure me of my hoarding.
Location: Va Beach
Means of Contact: PM is available
Price: $1200, though I do want to see what type of offers come my way, sure..
While not forced to sell this, I need to stop being a hoarder and just let it go. This block has been determined to be one of Earl Laskey's last 50 blocks that he built. In the past I had a good deal of business with him, became good acquaintances and I've been holding on this because of his passing -- though I've come to the realization that I need to let the thing go so that it can produce the power it was intended for, otherwise, it's an injustice to Earl.
That and I'm sick of having to WD40 the cylinders twice a week (excessive? perhaps, though in a good many ways I'm anal).
First, the build (the good):
[-] B16A3 Block
[-] 84.5mm bore GEM Sleeved (Earl was reluctant, though having been a GEM distributor he understood why it was GEM sleeved and was an acquaintance, thus the reason he even touched a competitors sleeved block)
[-] Copper O-ringed
[-] Endyne Rollerwave 9.4:1 (w/ B16 head) - these were to have been coated, but a customers pistons got sent out for coating instead, about the only "downside" to this build)
[-] Pauter Titanium Rods (cryotreated -- look it up if need be)
[-] Balanced and Polished Crank (cryotreated)
[-] Endyne Modified ITR Oil Pump
[-] Endyne 3-Main Girdle (Larry and I did a good bit of business together as well)
[-] Fluidampr Damper Street Series
[-] ACT Streetlite Flywheel
[-] ACT 6 puck - unsprung clutch (was intended to be temp but... will get to that)
[-] Z10 Aluminum Oil Pan w/ Stainless Steel Pickup (pan has built in baffle)
[-] Only 660 miles on all above
Now onto the "bad":
[-] Will need new tensioner assembly (imo, I wouldn't allow a timing belt to "polish" the surface rust)
[-] Would recommend the bolts in the Fluidamp (like a $3-5 bill) which hold the pulley assembly onto the damper itself
[-] Will need disassembled, cleaned and reassembled
Now the "really bad" story of it all. It was in the break in process, in fact it's only seen SAE-30. Time had been taken with this build from the get go, with the exception of one thing and that ended up "biting me" in the ass. A brass T fitting was used off the stock oil pressure port for basemap creation. I know the basemap was sound, I made it using my Dynapack (rather, when I did have it). So, a brass T fitting was fine for the stock sensor and Defi gauges. Well, business picked up and this personal project sat on the back burner for roughly 2 weeks. I went back to it to complete the break in, driving it around with a brass T fitting that I failed to change out for to a softline. See had I treated it like a customers car, no issues would have ensued. Anyway, fast forward 660 miles, brass T fitting started cracking (due to the weight of the sensors, stiffer motor mounts, etc.) releasing oil (the crap on top of the pistons is mostly oil, it's started to lift as a result of my religious WD40'ing -- steam clean these and they'll be good to go). Once my Defi showed an oil pressure of around 20-22ish psi, I shut it down. Lifted hood, saw oil shit all over (I'm guessing Ramey had a FUN time cleaning out the engine bay of the 99 Si I sold him -- the "platform" for this engine), pissed off at my self as I had a damn good idea what happened, I grabbed a rag to feel the T fitting and that was all she wrote, the additional weight from me feeling it made it snap off completely dangling the T and two sensors.
The engine has "sat" ever since. Now for the FULL story, incase you're superstitious and it would be something that you would want to know. The precise mileage on the tripmeter at the time this happened was, 666 miles. It happened just a month (if that) after Earl Laskey passed away. Earl Laskey built this block. Not shitting you, when Ramey picked up the shell, we bullshitted and I showed him the tripmeter.
To the interested buyer, what you see (what is listed) is what you get. I'd strongly recommend a tensioner assembly replacement (pulley, spring, bolt) and water pump (it only has 666 miles on it, is authentic Honda, but, has surface rust). Where the brass T fitting snapped is fairly flush with the block. This -may- have to be drilled then tapped. I tried with an easy out, but, soon got disgusted (I've had rebuilds I've had to do due to thrown rods, refreshening, etc. but never had to rebuild due to something so trivial such as this -- it easily annoyed the piss out of me) and never touched it since. So, there ARE some brass shavings likely in that oil passage, which is why I IMPLORE the buyer to disassemble it, take care of the brass fitting, clean the block and then reassemble. EGT's were always monitored, A/F ratio was always monitored, Oil Pressure was always monitored. So, no concerns of oblonged, broken ring land, etc. crap ass motor - rest assured. Take care of the surface rusting that I mentioned, clean the block, do the re-assembly and replace the copper o-ring (had a spool of copper o-ringing wire from GEM somewhere at one time -- I likely gave it away or something as I cannot find it now -- but a spool goes for $10-15ish?) and you'll have a very expensive/nice build. Re-use of bearings and rings. The crosshatching is still there and since it's been WD40'd all the damn time, the cylinder walls are sound. But... I'm the anal type, so I would spring for the $80 set of rings. Bearings, you could drop $100 for them, but if you have a builder that pays attention to detail, this shouldn't be needed. I'm anal so I would likely drop the $100 for new ones. Whether or not you have the news ones moly coated is up to you.
I felt I disclosed all these is to know (and maybe more to where some may be strayed now to buy -- that's fine with me, I'll still be able to sleep at night knowing I didn't keep something from someone). Other questions, ask me via this thread not PM (unless its personal business/transaction type of PM --- that way others may benefit from the asking/answering of general questions).
B16A3 GEM Sleeved Block ($695, cost less for me but..)
Pauter Titanium Rods $770 (profit margin isnt that great on Pauter, forget my price)
Z10 Oil Pan ($300-350ish)
Fluidampr Damper $350
ACT Streetlite Fly $200
ACT 6 Clutch $350ish
Endyne ITR Oil Pump $270
Endyne Rollerwaves $525
Ok, thats $3460, that's good enough. So, half of that is $1730. Knock off $500 for reassembly and taking care of the minor issues/annoyance. $1230.
I will NOT break it down into parts, if I had any inclination or desire to do so, it would have been done by now. So please, don't ask.
If you don't have $1200 in hand (or can have it in hand before seeing it) don't bother PMing me. Reason for this is to ensure neither you or myself waste each others time. Yeah, that price is set in stone, unless you want to pay more, then I'll be flexible there.
My D40 is not auto-focusing for some reason (guess I'll be making that post soon asking if anyone knows why) and I'm a shit photographer. I didn't bother wiping down dust, I mean, its pointless. Have questions, ASK.
Look forward to someone helping cure me of my hoarding.
Last edited by DeFunk; 11-21-2009 at 10:13 AM.
11-20-2009, 07:32 AM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
man no one wants that tired motor 
just kidding bump for a good seller
just kidding bump for a good seller
11-20-2009, 10:30 AM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Thanks bro. Received a PM:
"so it was run with brass shavings?"
NO, the brass shavings were made after shutdown (when I noticed oil pressure around 20ish psi -- at around 3k rpm this was low) once I noticed what the problem was and it was never run again.
I don't have a platform to place this in, already sold the wicked head that was on it, already sold the Quaiffe loaded and geared tranny.. Shawn got the motor mounts Really only thing left is this built short block. So my lazy ass has no reason to do the work on this and very very rarely pay someone to do work for me. Someone is going to get a good deal, is all I can say.
Any further questions, ask, I'll respond as soon as I can.
"so it was run with brass shavings?"
NO, the brass shavings were made after shutdown (when I noticed oil pressure around 20ish psi -- at around 3k rpm this was low) once I noticed what the problem was and it was never run again.
I don't have a platform to place this in, already sold the wicked head that was on it, already sold the Quaiffe loaded and geared tranny.. Shawn got the motor mounts
Really only thing left is this built short block. So my lazy ass has no reason to do the work on this and very very rarely pay someone to do work for me. Someone is going to get a good deal, is all I can say.Any further questions, ask, I'll respond as soon as I can.
11-20-2009, 01:22 PM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
bump for a good and honest guy!!! glws bro!!!
11-20-2009, 01:29 PM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Bump for a really good for sale thread. Why can't everyone include details. GL man!
11-21-2009, 02:56 AM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Daily bump
11-21-2009, 10:04 AM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
FS required header added
11-21-2009, 12:55 PM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Question asked: "Would you be willing to ship???"
Answer: No, I'd really rather not and if I did, I would do it on a pallet via freight/insured and would expect a USPS Money Order (that means just that, USPS only) or Certified Cashiers Check from a Bank. And a $100 "convenience" fee, due to having me conveniently get off my ass, putting it on a pallet, strapping it down and trucking it to a freight warehouse.
In short, I'd much rather conduct a face-to-face, this way the prospective buyer can look it all over before handing me the cash money. I have a counterfeit pen too bishes. ;p
Answer: No, I'd really rather not and if I did, I would do it on a pallet via freight/insured and would expect a USPS Money Order (that means just that, USPS only) or Certified Cashiers Check from a Bank. And a $100 "convenience" fee, due to having me conveniently get off my ass, putting it on a pallet, strapping it down and trucking it to a freight warehouse.
In short, I'd much rather conduct a face-to-face, this way the prospective buyer can look it all over before handing me the cash money. I have a counterfeit pen too bishes. ;p
11-21-2009, 03:22 PM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Sorry to hear your finally letting go of this motor.
And Mr. Ramey didn't have to do shit to that car that he bought. Well, he did semi clean the engine bay but I SLAVED on buffing that car back.
It came back amazingly aside from the hood having some crows feet in it. Anyways, I removed all the wiring on the car, I can tell you were anal. Everything was installed beautifully.
So I'll toss in a vouch for this man's word and this motor.
And Mr. Ramey didn't have to do shit to that car that he bought. Well, he did semi clean the engine bay but I SLAVED on buffing that car back.
It came back amazingly aside from the hood having some crows feet in it. Anyways, I removed all the wiring on the car, I can tell you were anal. Everything was installed beautifully.
So I'll toss in a vouch for this man's word and this motor.
11-22-2009, 07:51 AM
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Re: B16A3 84.5mm 9.4:1 Fluidampr, etc.
Heh, appreciate the bump bro. So you're the one that got her back to her beauty. Wish I could have seen it in person, I put on two waxings and it rode 990 miles on a trailer then sat. The pictures though were nice to see.
Knowing the holidays are coming up, I encourage those that may be interested to make an offer, hell you just never know at least you'll have an offer on the table I guess.
Knowing the holidays are coming up, I encourage those that may be interested to make an offer, hell you just never know at least you'll have an offer on the table I guess.