I have rust in my gas tank?
07-20-2010, 10:33 PM
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I have rust in my gas tank?
Heres the story
I bought my 91 gsxr 750 two weekends ago, and by that monday it had done completely shut down on me. I took it for a little ride down the road and it cut off and wouldnt start back up. I took the bike to the shop the next day, they took the carbs off cleaned and synched them.They informed me that there is some pretty severe rust build up in the bottom of my tank. I have done some research on different methods of removing the rest and was wondering if anyone has had this problem and tried any of theses solutions?
Muriatic acid?
Electrolysis?
Vinegar?
Coke?
I was told yamaha makes a product for fixing this solution?
any and all information will be grateful, thanks!
I bought my 91 gsxr 750 two weekends ago, and by that monday it had done completely shut down on me. I took it for a little ride down the road and it cut off and wouldnt start back up. I took the bike to the shop the next day, they took the carbs off cleaned and synched them.They informed me that there is some pretty severe rust build up in the bottom of my tank. I have done some research on different methods of removing the rest and was wondering if anyone has had this problem and tried any of theses solutions?
Muriatic acid?
Electrolysis?
Vinegar?
Coke?
I was told yamaha makes a product for fixing this solution?
any and all information will be grateful, thanks!
07-21-2010, 10:06 AM
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07-21-2010, 03:05 PM
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Re: I have rust in my gas tank?
muratic acid (sidewalk cleaner) mixed 50/50 with water. If it's REAL bad you can drop a handful of nuts and bolts in there and shake it around a bunch to knock the looser stuff out.
Once you get the metal clean and etched, you can seal it with several different things, but the best, IMO, is to take it to a radiator shop and have them seal it.
Once you get the metal clean and etched, you can seal it with several different things, but the best, IMO, is to take it to a radiator shop and have them seal it.
07-21-2010, 03:16 PM
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Re: I have rust in my gas tank?
muratic acid (sidewalk cleaner) mixed 50/50 with water. If it's REAL bad you can drop a handful of nuts and bolts in there and shake it around a bunch to knock the looser stuff out.
Once you get the metal clean and etched, you can seal it with several different things, but the best, IMO, is to take it to a radiator shop and have them seal it.
Once you get the metal clean and etched, you can seal it with several different things, but the best, IMO, is to take it to a radiator shop and have them seal it.
Thanks for the input to everyone that responded
07-23-2010, 05:20 AM
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Re: I have rust in my gas tank?
It's pretty obvious that you can't CLEAN the rust off. I would take a look at it with a small mirror and flashlight first to identify the severity of the rust. Personally what I would do is this: Consider the time and money involved in creating a rust free tank, then check out the cost to buy a replacement on eBay. If you still want to attempt it yourself (and know this, I've done this to 3 tanks before) I would consider using the nuts and bolts first to break off all large pieces of rust that are barely hanging on, then use POR15 to seal the rust inside and convert it to metal. It's your safest bet. POR15 is used everyday for converting mostly rust vehicle frames to a black coated metal.
07-25-2010, 08:19 PM
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07-26-2010, 07:20 AM
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Re: I have rust in my gas tank?
alright I know that the problem is solved but for anyone else who might be reading this thread.
...no fucking way. don't even think about it.
muriatic acid will fuck your shit up. if you must use it, be sure to pour acid into water NOT the other way around.
and if your tank leaks or is rusted through... BOOM you got that shit all over your hands.
goodbye fingers.
I'm not so sure about using nuts and bolts either... that could make a bad situation worse if your tank is really rusty. you could either wind up puncturing a hole in what would have otherwise been usable metal.
I do know what works though. Electrolysis, Soda blasting, Soda blasting(another vid), or you could swirl around a mixture of:
sand and phosphoric acid (like in coca-cola) or
soda ash / baking soda and water
sand and gasoline
just a quick head check for anyone attempting any of the above:
soda blasting uses BAKING soda
electrolysis uses WASHING soda (soda ash; NA2CO3)
phosphoric acid will still burn you. wear gloves and eye protection.
edit: PM ME IF YOU HAVE ANY SPECIFIC QUESTIONS!
muratic acid (sidewalk cleaner) mixed 50/50 with water. If it's REAL bad you can drop a handful of nuts and bolts in there and shake it around a bunch to knock the looser stuff out.
Once you get the metal clean and etched, you can seal it with several different things, but the best, IMO, is to take it to a radiator shop and have them seal it.
Once you get the metal clean and etched, you can seal it with several different things, but the best, IMO, is to take it to a radiator shop and have them seal it.
muriatic acid will fuck your shit up. if you must use it, be sure to pour acid into water NOT the other way around.
and if your tank leaks or is rusted through... BOOM you got that shit all over your hands.
goodbye fingers.I'm not so sure about using nuts and bolts either... that could make a bad situation worse if your tank is really rusty. you could either wind up puncturing a hole in what would have otherwise been usable metal.
I do know what works though. Electrolysis, Soda blasting, Soda blasting(another vid), or you could swirl around a mixture of:
sand and phosphoric acid (like in coca-cola) or
soda ash / baking soda and water
sand and gasoline
just a quick head check for anyone attempting any of the above:
soda blasting uses BAKING soda
electrolysis uses WASHING soda (soda ash; NA2CO3)
phosphoric acid will still burn you. wear gloves and eye protection.
edit: PM ME IF YOU HAVE ANY SPECIFIC QUESTIONS!
Last edited by paperassgasket; 07-26-2010 at 07:27 AM.
07-26-2010, 07:22 AM
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Re: I have rust in my gas tank?
also... here's an excerpt from wikipedia about phosphoric acid:
hence the reason Phosphoric acid and sand works. the acid converts the rust to a ferrous metal and the sand is an abrasive that rubs it off.
also if you're doing electrolysis you should still swirl around an abrasive in there to get the carbon or ferrous deposits off that result from the process.
Rust removal
Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.
"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance. (Such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.)
Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.
"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance. (Such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.)
also if you're doing electrolysis you should still swirl around an abrasive in there to get the carbon or ferrous deposits off that result from the process.
Last edited by paperassgasket; 07-26-2010 at 07:24 AM.