noshoes

Hi everyone,

I just finished assembly of my short block, and took lots of pictures.

Here's a preliminary list of parts in the car as of now:

Engine:

2nd Gen 3S-GTE block modified to work with:
3rd gen oiling and cooling systems (The 2nd gen 3S-GTE block is less prone to cracking due to a better iron alloy)
JE .020 over pistons, 8.5:1 compression
Eagle rods
ATS L19 material head studs
TTE head gasket modified to work with the 3rd gen cylinder head
Ferrea Competition Plus 1mm oversized intake valves, .5mm oversized exhaust valves
Ferrea dual valve springs and retainer
Gen 2 shim over buckets (easier to maintain)
Gen 3 shimmed oil pump
Kelford 262 degree high lift cams
HKS cam gears

Induction:

7" K&N filter on a Turbohoses 7" to 4" velocity stack
4" stainless steel KO Racing intake
KO Racing GT35R custom 3rd gen turbo kit
E Bay monster sized trunk mount core (Same as Hyde's) with stainless steel charge pipes
Q45 throttle body with all the extra stuff chopped off of it via a mill
KU Engineering intake manifold

Fuel system:

Single walbro 255lph in tank pump
upgraded wiring to pump, with relay
-6 teflon inner braided feed
-4 teflon inner braided return
850cc RX7 injectors with CNC machined adapters in polished stock 3rd gen rail
Aeromotive regulator

Ignition system

Brand new stock components
MSD 6A
MSD Blaster 3 coil
MSD 8920 tach adapter

AEM EMS
Clutchmasters FX700 twin disc clutch
ATS CV joints
Berk Exhaust

The car will run on E85, every day.

Here goes the documentation of my engine assembly. I feel that folks who have never seen engine assembly will appreciate these photos.

Please keep in mind that this is how I did it, and not necessarily how everyone would do it. Enjoy the photos!

Here's the freshly machined block, with a coating of high temp semi gloss black engine paint.



The freshly machined block inside. Take note of the "extra" bolt holes machined into the base for the Gen 3 oil baffle and oil pan.



Oil squirters installed.



The top main bearings installed. The top main bearings have holes in them to allow oil to flow from the block to the crank. The bottom main bearings do not. Always make sure you put in the correct ones!



Here are my assembly fluids of choice. I make an assembly lube out of STP oil treatment mixed with Marvel mystery oil. The WD40 is for the bores. I use ARP moly lube on any ARP hardware, to apply accurate torque values to the bolts/studs.



Assembly lube applied to the main bearings:



The crankshaft in place:



The freshly machined main bearings:



Torquing the main bearings down:



The crankshaft bolted down.

noshoes

Here is one of my rods, pre-installed to the piston. Take note that my machinist (Seth at Abacus Racing) always does specific bores and marks everything for me. This combo is destined to do the work in the #1 cylinder, as designated by the numbers in RED.



Here, you can see that this is a used piston, and that I have placed the end gaps of my rings 180 degrees from one another, alternating the gaps for each ring. I like to position my ring gaps at 2 and 8 o' clock.



Here, I am carefully lowering the rod into the bore. Note the ring compressor on the piston. It squeezes the rings enough to slide the piston into the bore.



Here, I'm tapping the piston into the cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer. This hammer has seen better days.



Here are the rods all bolted up.

I'm still kicking myself for using the small bolt Eagle rods, but I didn't have a full set of big bolt Eagles lying around the shop.



Here's the reused and modified Gen 3 3S-GTE oil pump installed with all new seals and gaskets.



Here's a good picture of the difference between the Gen 3 (left) and Gen 2 (right) water pumps.



The water pump installed:



The modified hard lines and oil cooler base installed:

noshoes

This picture shows how the modified oil cooler and subsequent AN line used to transport coolant around to the back side of the Gen 2 block was done by KO Racing. The setup even clears the AC compressor.

The Gen 3 block has the coolant opening right beside the water pump. The Gen 2 has the opening on the back side of the block.



The top side of the block, with everything installed.



The back side of the completed short block, depicting the line running to the back side of the block.



The Gen 3 oil baffle and pickup:



The Gen 3 top half of the oil pan, with integrated oil filter mount and transmission dust shield:



The completed oil pan, and oil filter installed:

ProbeGT-ZE

So Pretty!

RandomTask

How well do those blocks take high HP? Just noticing two bolt mains, wondering how often they pop.

Edit: Other than that, looking good!

noshoes

They handle well north of 700 whp, but a detonation event at that level will crack the block inside the bore. You then either sleeve the block, or use a 98+ Camry 5S-FE block.

Shive

Nice Bryan! This is for the black car?

MORE IMPATIENT

looks awesome man....gonne be a hell of a "beater car " ha....gonna be having some damn good fun with that car

and sonofabitch do i hate that type of ring compressor. hate hate hate.

noshoes

Yeppers, the "low" HP GT35R daily driver.

Shive

Only you....