87 Iroc LS-Juan/ Turbo new build
891 rwhp Pro-charged 402 in a 99 Firebird Formula. Right around 20 lbs on 93 with Meth injection. Car went 9.8X's with a 6 speed and consumed a spec stage V clutch in 3 passes. I'm sure there are people on here who know the owner/car.
I don't think he has any vids of it
So I guess it didn't happen lol.
edit: found one of his 10.1 passes. Blew the IC pipe off at the 1000 ft mark.
[URL=http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/i1uluz/?action=view¤t=AG101.flv][IMG]http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/i1uluz/th_AG101.jpg
So I guess it didn't happen lol.edit: found one of his 10.1 passes. Blew the IC pipe off at the 1000 ft mark.
[URL=http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/i1uluz/?action=view¤t=AG101.flv][IMG]http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/i1uluz/th_AG101.jpg
+rep
*UPDATE*
I just broke a brass sensor off in my head. FML! Any idea on what to do to get it out?
Also any idea on how to torque the cran bolt to specs? It just keeps spining.
I just have a few more thing to finish and am waiting for my turbo headers and then I'm done... Now this.
I just broke a brass sensor off in my head. FML! Any idea on what to do to get it out?
Also any idea on how to torque the cran bolt to specs? It just keeps spining.
I just have a few more thing to finish and am waiting for my turbo headers and then I'm done... Now this.
Was it the coolant temp sensor at the front of the driver's side head? Easy out?
As for the crank bolt.... you have to seat the pulley on w/ a longer bolt or get a pulley install tool from LS1tech (nice tool). Then take the old bolt and torque it to 200ish ft lbs to fully seat the pulley. Then you take the new bolt, cover in red loc-tite and install and torque to something like 38 ft/lbs, then you stretch it 150 degrees or so passed that.... www.ls1howto.com has good instructions.
As for the crank bolt.... you have to seat the pulley on w/ a longer bolt or get a pulley install tool from LS1tech (nice tool). Then take the old bolt and torque it to 200ish ft lbs to fully seat the pulley. Then you take the new bolt, cover in red loc-tite and install and torque to something like 38 ft/lbs, then you stretch it 150 degrees or so passed that.... www.ls1howto.com has good instructions.
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Now reinstall your A/C pulley using a 15mm socket wrench. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Now reinstall your A/C pulley using a 15mm socket wrench. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
Was it the coolant temp sensor at the front of the driver's side head? Easy out?
As for the crank bolt.... you have to seat the pulley on w/ a longer bolt or get a pulley install tool from LS1tech (nice tool). Then take the old bolt and torque it to 200ish ft lbs to fully seat the pulley. Then you take the new bolt, cover in red loc-tite and install and torque to something like 38 ft/lbs, then you stretch it 150 degrees or so passed that.... www.ls1howto.com has good instructions.
As for the crank bolt.... you have to seat the pulley on w/ a longer bolt or get a pulley install tool from LS1tech (nice tool). Then take the old bolt and torque it to 200ish ft lbs to fully seat the pulley. Then you take the new bolt, cover in red loc-tite and install and torque to something like 38 ft/lbs, then you stretch it 150 degrees or so passed that.... www.ls1howto.com has good instructions.
I've also heated the balancer in the oven to about 200 degrees before trying to pull it on with the longer bolt. Worked like a champ with a impact and the longer bolt and a hot balancer. Remember the hot pads. And no, the rubber in the balancer is not damaged by that temperature.
Last edited by JDM74; Jun 9, 2010 at 08:07 AM.
THe bolt was seated on. it is and ARP bolt that they say needs to be torqued to 250 ft lb. I got it to like 150 now it just moves the car a little...
It was a brass adaptor thing for my Auotmeter temp sensor.
EDIT: looks like I just might need a BIGGER torque wrench.
It was a brass adaptor thing for my Auotmeter temp sensor.
EDIT: looks like I just might need a BIGGER torque wrench.
Last edited by Iroc-Boost; Jun 9, 2010 at 08:08 AM.










