Water spots.
#12
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Re: Water spots.
Just use a mild paint cleaner or cleaner wax. It's just really mild mineral deposits that were in the water. Then move on with your life.
#13
Re: Water spots.
Don't use a buffer. I tell everyone if you don't know how to properly polish and buff a car.. I would never recommend attempting it. You can seriously hurt your paint more than you know.
Water spots are mineral deposits in the water (which I'm sure has been noted already)... the only way to remove them is with some sort of compound. Clay barring is a good start.. because all clay bar does is removes all contaminants from the paint, including waxes and sealants. I would then (personally) polish it with abrasives, then seal it, then wax it. But then again I have a DA random orbital buffer and some nice products lol
In your case, clay bar it, cleaner wax, and done. But tell your step dad that those irrigation systems are terrible for your paint.
Water spots are mineral deposits in the water (which I'm sure has been noted already)... the only way to remove them is with some sort of compound. Clay barring is a good start.. because all clay bar does is removes all contaminants from the paint, including waxes and sealants. I would then (personally) polish it with abrasives, then seal it, then wax it. But then again I have a DA random orbital buffer and some nice products lol
In your case, clay bar it, cleaner wax, and done. But tell your step dad that those irrigation systems are terrible for your paint.
#14
Re: Water spots.
I fix this on my old mans black truck all the time. I clay bar the vehicle after washing it then I typically get a low rpm buffer with a applicator pad, use a good cleaner wax (I use zymol) when applying it, then use polishing pads with the buffer to take it off. Works every time even with water spots baked on in 100 degree weather for weeks.
#15
Re: Water spots.
I fix this on my old mans black truck all the time. I clay bar the vehicle after washing it then I typically get a low rpm buffer with a applicator pad, use a good cleaner wax (I use zymol) when applying it, then use polishing pads with the buffer to take it off. Works every time even with water spots baked on in 100 degree weather for weeks.
personally, i trust phil@detailers domain for all my needs in that regard. he's one of the best. send him an email and i'm sure he can recommend something.
#16
Re: Water spots.
I fix this on my old mans black truck all the time. I clay bar the vehicle after washing it then I typically get a low rpm buffer with a applicator pad, use a good cleaner wax (I use zymol) when applying it, then use polishing pads with the buffer to take it off. Works every time even with water spots baked on in 100 degree weather for weeks.
#18
Re: Water spots.
Well i know how to use a buffer, and with a cleaner wax and a new pad, at low rpms, you cant do a huge amount of damage unless you set the pad on the ground a pick up some sand or rocks, either way, was just lending some personal experience.
#19
Re: Water spots.
God all mighty there is some bad info in here...
1) with a quality random orbital buffer, it's not hard to do minor paint correction and not risky. The horror stories you hear aren't from random orbital buffers.
2) you cannot buy a random orbital buffer at Walmart that will do anything more than spread product around. They're not nearly fast and powerful enough to "work" the paint.
3) You don't want to buff out water spots unless you plan on doing a full paint correction. The minerals in water spots are harder than your clearcoat is, and they can and will cause swirls if you attempt to power them off with a buffer.
4) Clay might work, but clay is not a finishing product. It's an initial product. It's a mild abrasive that absolutely WILL cause some swirling. Clay is meant to be followed up by polishing.
5) As usual, Fabrik8 is correct. Paint cleaner/cleaner wax is your best "over the counter" choice. They contain lubricating agents and will gently break down the mineral deposits without much paint damage. Just know that a dedicated paint cleaner will work best, but will require a separate wax afterward.
If you're really feeling froggy, get some of this stuff (the MX-7 in the green on white bottle).
It contains no abrasives and with absolutely no elbow grease turned this:
Into this:
1) with a quality random orbital buffer, it's not hard to do minor paint correction and not risky. The horror stories you hear aren't from random orbital buffers.
2) you cannot buy a random orbital buffer at Walmart that will do anything more than spread product around. They're not nearly fast and powerful enough to "work" the paint.
3) You don't want to buff out water spots unless you plan on doing a full paint correction. The minerals in water spots are harder than your clearcoat is, and they can and will cause swirls if you attempt to power them off with a buffer.
4) Clay might work, but clay is not a finishing product. It's an initial product. It's a mild abrasive that absolutely WILL cause some swirling. Clay is meant to be followed up by polishing.
5) As usual, Fabrik8 is correct. Paint cleaner/cleaner wax is your best "over the counter" choice. They contain lubricating agents and will gently break down the mineral deposits without much paint damage. Just know that a dedicated paint cleaner will work best, but will require a separate wax afterward.
If you're really feeling froggy, get some of this stuff (the MX-7 in the green on white bottle).
It contains no abrasives and with absolutely no elbow grease turned this:
Into this:
#20
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Re: Water spots.
thanks for all the help guys and as soon as this rain goes away and its decent enough outside to do it, ill take before and after shots.
flite- where can i find a bottle of mx-7
flite- where can i find a bottle of mx-7