motor is shot in the FD...what next?
I just bought an FD with a messed up motor with a greddy t78 kit. I priced every single detail for the LS1 basic swap and it was goin to run me between $6500-$8000. Dont be fooled an think it will be cheaper in the long run. The LsX swap also has problems with the bearing frying up. Just search on LS1tech and you will see whatI'm talking about.
There are alot of people in Va who especiallize in rotary engines, but most of them work out their garages. WHY? Not enough rotary people here to keep a shop goin. I have a guy working on mine in Va.beach right now. It's getting a large street port and 3mm apex seals. I'm looking to put down 400hp on pump and 450+ on race gas. We are having a rotary meet this weekend.
I'll pm you my builders number and you can give him call. He is giving a nice price for my built rotary.
This was my inspiration to keep the ticking time bomb. An rx7 without it soul is just wrong!!!!!!

Danny
There are alot of people in Va who especiallize in rotary engines, but most of them work out their garages. WHY? Not enough rotary people here to keep a shop goin. I have a guy working on mine in Va.beach right now. It's getting a large street port and 3mm apex seals. I'm looking to put down 400hp on pump and 450+ on race gas. We are having a rotary meet this weekend.
I'll pm you my builders number and you can give him call. He is giving a nice price for my built rotary.
This was my inspiration to keep the ticking time bomb. An rx7 without it soul is just wrong!!!!!!

Danny
Last edited by RE-SPECGARAGE; Aug 10, 2007 at 07:27 AM.
Alot of people are ignorant when it comes to Rotaries
I was one of them
Its not so bad if you get a few things covered. The motor should easily last you 60-80k miles if you follow the rules
A few things kill the rotary
Heat (as you just found out)
and Detonation
Heat can easily be addressed
you must run a upgraded radiator..Vmount is even better
Thermal coat exhaust components
Run a turbine jacket
Run a POWER FC and monitor water temps on your FC commander on a hot day
Detonation
Have the best of the best tune them
aka PFSupercars or Steve Kahn
Run a good fueling system
Run a single turbo and eliminate all that factory bullshit
Run a POWER FC
Run good gas
HAVE A VERY GOOD BOOST CONTROLLER (so it wont spike)
You follow these rules you will have no problems
So you have to decide if you want to do all this or put a motor in it that sounds like dog shit...its up to you
I was one of them
Its not so bad if you get a few things covered. The motor should easily last you 60-80k miles if you follow the rules
A few things kill the rotary
Heat (as you just found out)
and Detonation
Heat can easily be addressed
you must run a upgraded radiator..Vmount is even better
Thermal coat exhaust components
Run a turbine jacket
Run a POWER FC and monitor water temps on your FC commander on a hot day
Detonation
Have the best of the best tune them
aka PFSupercars or Steve Kahn
Run a good fueling system
Run a single turbo and eliminate all that factory bullshit
Run a POWER FC
Run good gas
HAVE A VERY GOOD BOOST CONTROLLER (so it wont spike)
You follow these rules you will have no problems
So you have to decide if you want to do all this or put a motor in it that sounds like dog shit...its up to you
also if you dont plan on driving it every day
Just mix in some race gas for added saftey if you are running big boost or if you drive it alot just turn down the boost and you should be safe.
If you keep the rotary I would highly suggest to have someone do all the work on it. Here is my reasoning.
First I hate working on cars.....yes I know
Second when I priced it all out by taking the motor out, shipping it, getting it rebuilt, shipping it back, reinstalling it, tuning it and all the other associated BS PFSupercars came out to be $1100 more expensive then the el cheapo route. To me thats pennies considering the headaches and the months and months of downtime you will have. Fuck that
I waited 3 weeks to take my car to PFS and he had it rebuilt and tuned in 1.5 weeks. When I got the car back in ran perfect and had no greasy dirty ass mechanic marks on it. Those mutherfuckers are on point.
Just mix in some race gas for added saftey if you are running big boost or if you drive it alot just turn down the boost and you should be safe.
If you keep the rotary I would highly suggest to have someone do all the work on it. Here is my reasoning.
First I hate working on cars.....yes I know

Second when I priced it all out by taking the motor out, shipping it, getting it rebuilt, shipping it back, reinstalling it, tuning it and all the other associated BS PFSupercars came out to be $1100 more expensive then the el cheapo route. To me thats pennies considering the headaches and the months and months of downtime you will have. Fuck that
I waited 3 weeks to take my car to PFS and he had it rebuilt and tuned in 1.5 weeks. When I got the car back in ran perfect and had no greasy dirty ass mechanic marks on it. Those mutherfuckers are on point.






