brakes
He's not really hating. He's being honest. Slotted or drilled rotors aren't going to make any difference at all in the driveability of your car. Unless it's a track beast, you're just spending unnecessary money.
I'd honestly go with Brembo blanks and Hawk HP+ pads. Those are all the upgrade you will need and they are going to perform just as good, if not better on the street than a drilled/slotted rotor. Just my .02
Good luck.
I'd honestly go with Brembo blanks and Hawk HP+ pads. Those are all the upgrade you will need and they are going to perform just as good, if not better on the street than a drilled/slotted rotor. Just my .02
Good luck.
Last edited by p-stone; Feb 27, 2008 at 07:51 PM.
He's not really hating. He's being honest. Slotted or drilled rotors aren't going to make any difference at all in the driveability of your car. Unless it's a track beast, you're just spending unnecessary money.
I'd honestly go with Brembo blanks and Hawk HP+ pads. Those are all the upgrade you will need and they are going to perform just as good, if not better on the street than a drilled/slotted rotor. Just my .02
Good luck.
I'd honestly go with Brembo blanks and Hawk HP+ pads. Those are all the upgrade you will need and they are going to perform just as good, if not better on the street than a drilled/slotted rotor. Just my .02
Good luck.
being explained as it was by p-stone is more understandable then the way the other gentlemen explained it think it was go to advance and ask for rotors so any how im looking into the brembo blanks i believe they are called looks good to me thanks for all the advice
Heres another bit of advice, use some punctuation.
To say "there's no noticeable difference" between slotted/cross-drilled is to have never gone on a long, windy, hilly road. For those in the Virginia Tech area that have cruised with the VTCC, I doubt one person with stock blanks will tell you blanks perform "good enough". Sure, 12" brembo blanks will probably perform just as well/better than 9" e-bay slotted's, but a good pair of slotted rotors and some nice pads will minimize fading when doing a lot of mountain driving, which for me is more about safety than it looking "uber awesome." The more air you can get to the core of the break without reducing it's contact patch with the pads, the faster your brakes will cool down and remain effective. Period. Will you notice this in daily street driving? Unless your continuously that guy/granny that slams on their breaks at every stop-light from WOT, no. But if you cruise Skyline Drive or any of the many other similar roads throughout Virginia (especially at over 35 mph), I'll guarantee you'll notice the difference after the first 10 miles..
To say "there's no noticeable difference" between slotted/cross-drilled is to have never gone on a long, windy, hilly road. For those in the Virginia Tech area that have cruised with the VTCC, I doubt one person with stock blanks will tell you blanks perform "good enough". Sure, 12" brembo blanks will probably perform just as well/better than 9" e-bay slotted's, but a good pair of slotted rotors and some nice pads will minimize fading when doing a lot of mountain driving, which for me is more about safety than it looking "uber awesome." The more air you can get to the core of the break without reducing it's contact patch with the pads, the faster your brakes will cool down and remain effective. Period. Will you notice this in daily street driving? Unless your continuously that guy/granny that slams on their breaks at every stop-light from WOT, no. But if you cruise Skyline Drive or any of the many other similar roads throughout Virginia (especially at over 35 mph), I'll guarantee you'll notice the difference after the first 10 miles..
LOL your an idiot. I track my car frequently, which means i use my brakes alot and to there full potential. Just looking around the paddock you will see maybe 3 or 4 cars with slotted or drilled rotors out of 200. If your having brake fade it means your pads are working out side of there heat range and suck anyway. You would be doing yourself a huge favor just upgrading your pads to hawk hp+ or something like that.
While i was at the tack last weekend, representatives from hawk where there talking about different types of brake failure, bedding processes, etc. They too where telling everyone to stay away from slotted rotor mainly because they are more susceptible to cracking and also because they reduce your friction surface, and just are not necessary. So don't waste your money on slotted rotors, hell most all the race cars at the track are on 20 dollar napa rotors. Just buy better pads, and bleed your brakes to get the air out of the lines. And maybe if your still having brake problems get some braided stainless steel brake lines and flush your brake fluid out for some ATE super blue fluid.
People that buy into cross-drilled/slotted rotors havent done their homework. We build 600hp American Iron Extreme cars that hit 160mph over and over and use blank rotors. OMG, we must be stupid or something.
Oh no wait, we just know what works and that cross-drilled/slotted rotors usually build up gases in those voids and counteract braking.
Now, if you just want something that looks pretty then just admit it and buy some baller ass zinc coated cross-drilled, slotted rotors from eradispeed or something and be done with it. I highly doubt you use your brakes as much as the two fucking Sentra owners in this thread.
ps - nice avatar.
Oh no wait, we just know what works and that cross-drilled/slotted rotors usually build up gases in those voids and counteract braking.
Now, if you just want something that looks pretty then just admit it and buy some baller ass zinc coated cross-drilled, slotted rotors from eradispeed or something and be done with it. I highly doubt you use your brakes as much as the two fucking Sentra owners in this thread.
ps - nice avatar.






