You don't need the fuse under the hood as much as you need one in the trunk. Your main source of power, which is the battery, is what you have to worry about. If you have the engine off, there is no power coming from the alternator. If you then cut through, pinch, etc,., the cable from the battery, you now have an extreme fire hazard. Do you see where this is going?

Basically you have a 2 way power source down the cable. You could go alternator/front to battery/back either way. What kind of protection you adopt is up to you. I'd do a fuse or breaker in the back at the bare minimum, the one under the hood isn't as important.

 

i'd like to add that, yes, it ~could~ technically hurt electron flow to have overkill wire gauge. it's all dependent on amperage draw/length of wire run. MILspec dictates that 'acceptable' voltage loss over one length of wire is </= .25v

 

You've either got that backwards, or I'm totally confused with your point..
Overkill would be better for electron flow, not worse. The larger the wire, the lower the voltage. There is a point where you're not gaining anything by going bigger though, because the difference is so small as to not matter, which is why 2 gauge is overkill for most applications.

 

i'm sorry, i'll have to disagree with you here. yes, you can have too large a gauge of wire. it's like having built-in resistance. an example of too small a wire:
think of it like a water hose. if you pumped the amount of pressure/volume of water a fire hose would/does use through a garden hose, then you would probably have a burst hose.
an example of too large a wire gauge:
if you then take a common home spigot and finagle a fire hose to it and turn-on the water, then there wouldn't be enough water pressure/volume to flow-through the hose; it would eventually fill-up, but not flow so good.

the same theory would apply to the use of the numerous number of straw sizes.

 

haha yall are debating over which gauge i should use lol.
But ok i guess heres a list of what i need:
4 guage wire
and as for the breaker/fuse what exactly would it be called,i never really seen a fuse that would mount that large of a terminal?

Anyways im relocating it because it in the way of my intake,which is like 2 inches thick and still hits,thus it snapping my ait filter off.

 

you can use an ANL type of fuse/fuse holder. you'll want the largest value fuse you can get since it's only job is really not as a current limiter but a safeguard against shorting-out.

 

napa.

 

i made my own. I bought a boat battery box for $15 from AAP. I used some foam i stole from work and cut out the area that the battery goes into so it dosn't slide aorund in the box. I strapped it down with a $10 industrial strapping system with latch and all. Only nit pick i have is im not running any fuse lol.

 

You could always measure the stock cables, or look in your car manual wiring diagram. My oem audi (V-6) ground cable is 25mm^2 or 4AWG. The cable going to the starter and alternator is 16mm^2 or 6AWG. Since the (+) cable will be longer with the battery mounted in the trunk, 4AWG would be my choice for the positive wire. If you're relocating the battery you're likely concerned with weight. Going with a 2awg when it's not required only adds unnecessary weight to the car.

 

walmart -battery box like 7.00 and terminals a few dollars
advance auto or even walmart for some heavy gauge wire (amp wire works)