98sr20ve

Won't make me any faster but I think I need it. I was hitting 230F oil temps on the just playing around on the highway for several minutes on a 65F day. I decided to get a oil cooler before my first track day. Here are the parts before they go on the car. The oil cooler is a Setrab. They are used in WRC and european road racing events. The sandwich plate is a Mocal and has a built in thermostat to keep the oil at 185F or higher. If I find that my oil doesn’t get warm enough I will bypass the cooler during the winter months.



I should have everything installed this weekend. I will be using stainless steal hose of course but I don't have that yet.

Bandit

cool....imma need a trans cooler sooner or later. shift improver addin a little bit of heat to the trans...let me know how it turns out, and take some pics...

eng

How much did that bad boy run?

Do they make one that relocates the filter?

98sr20ve

You can do almost anything with this stuff. Here are some links.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/
http://www.setrab.com/setrab.htm
http://www.batinc.net/main.htm
http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm

I like the simplicity of my setup. Changing the oil filter is no big deal to me. One 90 degree fitting cost $23 so I tried to avoid those AN fittings.

trip

lol a little baby intercooler but not at all. nice nice nice.

Mr. gauges knows what the motor needs now.

lightningd

nice, real car enthusiasts take care of their motors. but wait a minute, the fittings are kind of shiny, is that APC???? j/p

eng

This is something more like what I'd like to do: http://www.sportauto.cc/Oil-Cooler/a...ooler_text.htm

Look at that final cost ... ouch -_-"

98sr20ve

And other then moving the oil filter it has zero advantages. Mine has these advantages.
1 Cost
2 Simplicity (less fitting, less chance of leaks)
3 Shorter oil lines fill up faster and lubricate engine faster
4 Less pressure drop do to shorter oil lines
5 Easier oil changes. In other words the ups and downs of that type of system will not drain completely very easily. Mine will be located so that on level ground the oil stays in the cooler (with the engine not running) and when I jack the car up it should drain into the oil pan. This is just like the anti-drainback feature that is built into all good oil filters.

Less is more in my experiance on some things.

eng

Well if your filter is located in a good spot I guess the relocation kit is not needed. Mine however is located below the intake manifold and between a motor mount. I barely have enough room to shove my hands down there, forget about seeing what I'm doing, just gotta feel around. It's really a pain.

As for the advantages you listed:[list=1][*]No question, less parts is less money[*]Simpler in that it has less parts, but if it's done right I wouldn't worry about leaks. If you question your own workmanship then this could be an issue.[*]The lines should always be full once primed. It's not like it will suddenly drain out unless you stick it somewhere really high, which is just poor placement. Also if the lines are noticably longer that means more oil capacity which could be a plus.[*]Depending on the difference in length this could either be negligible or a lot, hard to say.[*]Again this depends on how the lines are run. I don't see why adding the relocation kit you couldn't achieve the same effect.[/list=1]Also remember the relocation kit can allow you to run a different size filter than stock. Again for some people this will be a non-issue, others it will be very useful.

Hurry and get that thing on so we can see some action shots

98sr20ve

I can use any filter that has a 21mm by 1.5 thread pitch. I have not reason to not use my Nissan filter but I do have that option. Filters are pretty universal actually.