Swap w/ built engine, runs crap... 1G AWD DSM
11-29-2005, 10:07 PM
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psycho jungle cat
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Swap w/ built engine, runs crap... 1G AWD DSM
Well some friends and I wrapped up an engine install on my 90 AWD TSi. Started it up, and 2 codes threw on my Scanmaster3. TPS & Knock Sensor, codes 14 & 31.
1.) Car idles irratic and surges between 700rpm & 1400rpm, yes, this could be the TPS. Vacuum fluctuates between -9 & -12 per boost gauge. TPS reads solid 10% and doesn't change with a stab at the throttle. What exactly would make it do this if it was never removed from the TB? We just switched the intake manifold from one engine to another. Both engines came out of 90 USDM AWD DSMs.
2.) I'm not reading knock on my Datalogger, yet CEL pulls the 31 code. My guess is it's possible the knock sensor was mounted in the wrong spot (unlikely but possible), loose, or unhooked. I can't see how the knock sensor would fail in between swapping. The logger read knock b4 the swap. If the knock sensor failed, and I have no readings, would that send the timing haywire thus throwing the light? OR does it throw b'c it doesn't detect a knock sensor present at all, or both?
Is it possible for an SAFC2 to interfere with the Datalogger? I never had any of these problems prior to new engine install.
Coolant temp., Bat., ATS, ISC, AirFlow, etc. all seem to fluctuate in conjunction w/change in engine rpm with no lag. If a mod list is needed or other data-logged info., let me know and I'll post.
Thanks guys.
-Chris (Citium2012)
1.) Car idles irratic and surges between 700rpm & 1400rpm, yes, this could be the TPS. Vacuum fluctuates between -9 & -12 per boost gauge. TPS reads solid 10% and doesn't change with a stab at the throttle. What exactly would make it do this if it was never removed from the TB? We just switched the intake manifold from one engine to another. Both engines came out of 90 USDM AWD DSMs.
2.) I'm not reading knock on my Datalogger, yet CEL pulls the 31 code. My guess is it's possible the knock sensor was mounted in the wrong spot (unlikely but possible), loose, or unhooked. I can't see how the knock sensor would fail in between swapping. The logger read knock b4 the swap. If the knock sensor failed, and I have no readings, would that send the timing haywire thus throwing the light? OR does it throw b'c it doesn't detect a knock sensor present at all, or both?
Is it possible for an SAFC2 to interfere with the Datalogger? I never had any of these problems prior to new engine install.
Coolant temp., Bat., ATS, ISC, AirFlow, etc. all seem to fluctuate in conjunction w/change in engine rpm with no lag. If a mod list is needed or other data-logged info., let me know and I'll post.
Thanks guys.
-Chris (Citium2012)
Last edited by Spindrift; 11-30-2005 at 12:07 PM.
11-30-2005, 12:44 PM
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the"V8nightmare"
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Re: Swap w/ built engine, runs crap... 1G AWD DSM
vacume leak??? have u tried to erase the codes and restart the car?? to see if the car still throughs the code? u may need a new knock sensor???
11-30-2005, 01:07 PM
#5
psycho jungle cat
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Re: Swap w/ built engine, runs crap... 1G AWD DSM
Originally Posted by blkmjk
vacume leak??? have u tried to erase the codes and restart the car?? to see if the car still throughs the code? u may need a new knock sensor???
Prothane engine inserts were used, and my balance shaft was deleted. I'd think that would throw the knock code, but the datalogger doesn't pick up any knock... so I begin to think I'll need a new knock sensor as well.
I called Abacus, and the previous owner of engine. Neither of the two had changed out the knock sensor that was on the engine. Next Level also laid hands on this engine, but they're no longer in business. Possibly a faulty unit to begin with.
A vacuum leak was never found...BTW, lifter tick normally dissappears after warming up. I have new 3G lifters in an engine w/zero miles and they ticked after engine warmed up? Grease from rebuild not burned off?
-Citium2012
Last edited by Spindrift; 11-30-2005 at 01:12 PM.
11-30-2005, 01:27 PM
#6
RIP Chris Schader
Re: Swap w/ built engine, runs crap... 1G AWD DSM
you need to drive the car immediatley and give it a good amount of throttle, dont let it idle for a long time, the rings need to be seated correctly or you will have a weak motor for the rest of its life.
ps: you need a new knock sensor. you can rig up a 9v battery to the connector to fool the ecu and see if it changes how the car runs. the ecu needs to see between 8 and 12 volts from the knock sensor.
ps: you need a new knock sensor. you can rig up a 9v battery to the connector to fool the ecu and see if it changes how the car runs. the ecu needs to see between 8 and 12 volts from the knock sensor.
11-30-2005, 01:29 PM
#8
RIP Chris Schader
11-30-2005, 02:06 PM
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psycho jungle cat
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Re: Swap w/ built engine, runs crap... 1G AWD DSM
Originally Posted by dorko-t
is this the car that my turbo is going on?
just curious?
ill be over there later tonight...im bout to take a shower now
just curious?
ill be over there later tonight...im bout to take a shower now
If I need not to sell these things, then I have left over Big16G parts from another turbo, to build the 14b, and put it on Ebay to help me rebound on the Credit card after X-mas. It's not that I spend too much, it's that I have none to spend. Air Force is only 2 more months away, I'm hanging in there!
Thanks Eclipz!
-Citium2012
