Corbzin

Alright so ill be replacing my rotors this weekend, Just wondering how hard its gonna be?

ive herd its pretty simple once you take the calibers off?

93dxcoupe

Shit is gonna be impossible. You might as well just get another car.

Corbzin

hardy harr harr

HEISENBERG

calipers off along with the brackets or whatever the hell those are called and then just unscrew the bolts that hold the rotor. Just make sure you don't let the calipers hang from the line.

The tedious part is bleeding the system afterwards.

dru

that's even if you have bolts holding down the rotor

depending on the last time those rotors have been changed.. you might have to wack the hell out of them with a BFH

UberJag

You don't need to bleed the system. Its a very easy job to do. ProPixel is right about not letting the calipers hang from the break lines. There are little screws that hold the rotor on flat until the car has the tire on and they can some times be a little biotch to take off. Just apply the right amount of pressure with a GOOD screwdriver and you should be home free.


Here is DIY instructions from S2KI forums (http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123081) :


Changing your own brake pads is not only easy it's quick to do, requires few tools and will save you a lot of money. Here is a quick run down off the top of my head to get you started. I'll add pictures and a bit more detail as I get them.

Preparation

To begin your pad change you need to do a few things first.

1. Check your tools! You'll need the following:

- 4 jack stands
- a jack
- an adjustable "crescent" type wrench, thin profile
or
- a thin profile 19mm open end wrench
and
- a thin profile 17mm open end wrench
- a 12mm box end wrench, the longer the better
- a 3"x3/8" socket extension or preferably a caliper retractor tool (parts store)
- a 6" C-clamp or "quick" clamp or massive set of channel lock pliers (6" jaw)

I'm going to describe the process for OE factory pads. If you are using aftermarket pads you'll be missing new shims and anti-squeak grease that come with a new set of pads from Honda. Reuse your shims from your existing pads and the grease isn't required but you can get some at your local auto parts store.

The Steps

1. Loosen the lugs on all wheels and open the hood.

2. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands.

3. Remove all 4 wheels.

4. Starting at the left front follow this procedure for both front brakes:

a. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper on which the caliper floats. You'll recognize them by the rubber boots.

b. On the lower of the two bolts: Take your adjustable wrench and attach it to the nut just inboard of the rubber boot being careful not to damage the boot. Take your 12mm box wrench and apply it to the lower bolt head. Hold the adjustable wrench firmly and loosen and remove the bolt. The caliper body should now swing upwards on that remaining bolt, clear of the pads.

c. Remove the pads keeping track of which shims go on which pads (inboard or outboard).

d. Using your clamp, retract the piston into the caliper body. The piston is cup shaped. It will take considerable effort to get the caliper moving but once it starts it should get easier. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot seal around the piston. Retract the piston until it's flush with the cast caliper body.

NOTE! -- If you added brake fluid or replaced the brake fluid with less than full pads you may spill fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir so check it to make sure you aren't pushing more fluid back into the master cylinder than it can hold. Always change fluid with new pads installed and all calipers retracted.

e. Install the shims, grease and new pads. The grease goes between the shims and the pad. Don't use much or it will squeeze out and make a mess. Just a dab will do.

f. Lower the caliper body down over the new pads. It moves in and out so just align it and lower it over the newly installed pads.

g. Replace the caliper bolt just like you took it out. Hold the nut with the adjustable wrench and tighten the bolt with your box wrench. ~25ft/lbs should do it. It doesn't need serious torquing just a good crank.

h. Repeat this process for the right side front brake.

5. Follow this procedure for the rear brakes in turn:

a. Like the front brakes, locate the two caliper bolts but unlike the front you need to remove both bolts.

b. Remove both bolts and lift the caliper body up and away from the pads. Be careful not to damage the ABS cable attached to the caliper. Set it on one of the suspension arms.

c. Remove the pads and like the fronts keep track of which shims go where.

d. Using your 3/8 socket extension or piston retractor and 3/8 ratchet turn the piston clockwise to retract. This is a bit of a bitch. It hard to get started but like the fronts will get a bit easier once it starts. Position the 3/8 extension in the center of the X, get a good grip and turn. The retractor tool offers better grip but I find that a good 3/8 3" extension does the job just fine. I ground down the end of mine to remove the rounded edges and provide a more positive grip on the piston grooves. Retract the caliper flush like on the fronts.

e. Install the new shims, grease and pads and reposition the caliper over them in place to rebolt.

f. Replace the two caliper bolts in the same fashion as you removed them. Be careful to not damage the rubber boots.

g. Repeat for the other rear caliper.

6. Give a couple of squeezes on the brake pedal to extend the calipers. The pedal should firm up after 1 or 2 pumps.

7. If you are going to bleed the brake fluid, now is the time.

8. Reinstall the wheels and lugs.

9. Lower the car to the ground and torque your lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs.

10. Go fishing, you are done.

The first time you do this it will take about an hour. Each time you do it after that it will get much faster. I've got it down to 20mins start to finish. I highly recommend you do this procedure yourself rather than pay someone else $60/hr to do it. It's pretty simple and requires almost no special knowledge or tools. It will also give you a change to inspect the braking components, rotors, boot and seals and learn about how your brakes work.

HEISENBERG

For some reason I always end up having to bleed them. Different cars too. Weird.

Good read. ^

Corbzin

Thanks guys.

Razmus

Wut?

dave22

That write-up is for replacing pads, not rotors.

You'll have two screws holding each rotor on that will be an absolute bitch to get off. I'd suggest finding an impact screwdriver. And either have new screws ready or don't bother with re-installing them.