Problems after manual conversion
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newport News
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Problems after manual conversion
Hey guys maybe you can help me out. First I converted a 95 hatch from auto to a manual using a CX trans. I used some delsol shift linkage and clutch pedal with master cylinder. I had to cut and re-weld the linkage for proper positioning. The problems that I have are that the engine is sitting uneven. It is sitting higher on the side where the trans mount is. I bought a new mount from Napa because my auto mount wouldn't work. Also I hear a noise from the trans (like a grinding noise) when accelerating. I think it may have to do with the engine alignment. Also I literally had to force the mount into place on the frame rail. Is there a special mount I am supposed to use? Also is there maybe something I am missing as far as the swap goes? How do I do away with the neutral safety switch? How do I wire in the clutch inhibit switch and the back-up light switch? Any help would me appreciated.
Scott
Also, one more thing, I have an open hole in the top of the trans where something is supposed to screw into. I dont know what it is but it spits oil out while driving.
Scott
Also, one more thing, I have an open hole in the top of the trans where something is supposed to screw into. I dont know what it is but it spits oil out while driving.
#2
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: near charlottesville
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
i recently did a integra, i dont know why you had to cut the linkage, we hade the same problem with the tranny mount i used spacers to make it sit even, have to find longer bolts for those holes, nuetral safety switch you can wire in into your clutch safety switch if you wanted all of it to work correctly, backup lights we ran a wire to the switch on the tranny then from the other wire on the tranny brought that inside and wired it into the automatic shifter plugs that are left inside the car you have to find the right one
#3
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Eastern Panhandle WV
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
wow man, you just really shouldn't have done this swap. You need to learn more about cars before doing things like this. But in any event I'll list your solutions in order
#1 get some civic linkage or atleast a civic stabilizer rod (the one that bolts to the bracket)
#2 The frame mount on the tranny side is different between auto and manual. the auto frame mount slopes up which is why your motor is sitting crooked. 2 ways you can fix this is buy an conversion mount which cost about $150 to level the motor out(easiest) or drill out your frame mount go to a junkyard drill out a frame mount from a manual tranny donor car and then weld back in place in your car.(recommended)
#3 Your input shaft bearing is bad, no easy or cheap way to fix this,(for someone of limited mechanical knowledge as yourself) good news is you can drive on it like this for quite awhile and it won't really do significant damage, only way to make the noise go away is get a new trans or get the bearing replaced in this trans. Being I don't know your set-up I won't tell you to dump the extremely long cx trans for an ex or si unit.
#4 answered previously: due to the engine missalignment and you maybe using the AT rear subframe mount too, causing the difficulty
#5-#8 search on honda-tech.com for auto to manual swaps for wiring charts. and how to wire in and eliminate the list.
#9 that's called a fill plug noob, if oil is coming out of a hole that means there should be a plug there to stop it.
#1 get some civic linkage or atleast a civic stabilizer rod (the one that bolts to the bracket)
#2 The frame mount on the tranny side is different between auto and manual. the auto frame mount slopes up which is why your motor is sitting crooked. 2 ways you can fix this is buy an conversion mount which cost about $150 to level the motor out(easiest) or drill out your frame mount go to a junkyard drill out a frame mount from a manual tranny donor car and then weld back in place in your car.(recommended)
#3 Your input shaft bearing is bad, no easy or cheap way to fix this,(for someone of limited mechanical knowledge as yourself) good news is you can drive on it like this for quite awhile and it won't really do significant damage, only way to make the noise go away is get a new trans or get the bearing replaced in this trans. Being I don't know your set-up I won't tell you to dump the extremely long cx trans for an ex or si unit.
#4 answered previously: due to the engine missalignment and you maybe using the AT rear subframe mount too, causing the difficulty
#5-#8 search on honda-tech.com for auto to manual swaps for wiring charts. and how to wire in and eliminate the list.
#9 that's called a fill plug noob, if oil is coming out of a hole that means there should be a plug there to stop it.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newport News
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
And what may I ask is your mechanical experience? Not quite a noob here. I don't think your comments about lack of knowledge on this subject actually add to the quality of you answers.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newport News
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
OK, then I guess you are a retarded monkey fucker. I asked for help not to criticism. Also the hole is not for the fill hole JA. I know where the fill hole is.
#7
I'm worse drugged
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Va beach
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
your linkage is probably short thats why it's grinding...
the engine being uneven is definitly because of a mount...
there is a guide somewhere on honda-tech... i followed it and my car drives like it was originally 5 speed... reverse lights and all... i chose not to wire up the clutch inhibitor thing but it also talks about it on the guide... i did the conversion on a 98 but i am pretty sure it should be pretty close...
the engine being uneven is definitly because of a mount...
there is a guide somewhere on honda-tech... i followed it and my car drives like it was originally 5 speed... reverse lights and all... i chose not to wire up the clutch inhibitor thing but it also talks about it on the guide... i did the conversion on a 98 but i am pretty sure it should be pretty close...
#8
corona connessuer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: GUAM
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
could you take a picture of where this is on the tranny? there are a few spots on the tranny that are supposed to have a spring and ball bearing held in buy a bolt. kinda hard to understand what they are for with out having dismantled a tranny yourself to to see what im talking about. this could also be the source of the growling/grinding noise. there i hope that helped.......and yes i am a genius
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newport News
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
Thanks for the info guys. Good to see that some people can offer useful info without commenting on things that have nothing to do with the topic.
#10
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Eastern Panhandle WV
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Problems after manual conversion
The topic is you really shouldn't be working on yours or anybodies cars. Your type of ignorance/coupled with your ambition to undertake projects that far exceed your mechanical knowledge is dangerous to public safety. Between this thread and the one involving you cornering in your hatch, make me apprehensive to even let my children play in the front yard. Sorry your vagina got sore from the criticism, but it's also why I provided correct info and locations where to do the job right. On the top area of a D series transmisson case, there is only one threaded hole that would have oil coming out of it, and that's the fill plug. Now the breather tube or VSS holes could leak oil too, but neither of those are threaded.