buugiewuugie

No it's not fused.

It's a multimeter.


I'm not sure I understand what you are saying, but I'll try and answer. I have checked the voltage directly at the switch from the yellow power wire with the multi-meter set to ohm. it has around 12 ohms before pressing the button. As soon as the button is pressed it dropped to 0. I'm not overly familiar with how a multimeter works and the settings. So if you are referring to something else, let me know and I'll check it out.

Thanks much for the schematic, I could not find this damn thing anywhere.

No, it never gets hot or even warm. Can I disconnect the driver motor and the system still work, assuming there the motor is the issue?

buugiewuugie

No, there is no sound from the motor.

I have been searching forever for the schematics. I have had no luck on Google. Really happy AaronDavis was able to find one for me!

Fabrik8

Cool, now I have a schematic to look at. I'm going to sit on the couch later with a beer (if I remember), and figure out your previous comments in the context of the schematic, and then figure out what the problem is or how to pinpoint it. I can't digest everything at the moment, but I think you've already said enough to narrow things down almost completely.

Fabrik8

If you're checking voltage, you need to be on the DCV setting, which is obviously DC voltage. There is likely a 20V setting (that's very common for most meters), which is what you should be using for normal 12V electrical systems. If you are checking resistance, you want to use the ohms setting. You don't want to check resistance with voltage applied to the circuit, because the circuit voltage will give a completely false reading on the multimeter and can also damage the multimeter.


Okay, so I'm trying to think this through. SO where did you connect the wire from the cig lighter, to the yellow wire on the switch? So you're essentially jumpering power across the retained accessory breaker...?

You can disconnect the window motor and everything will still function properly, with the exception of the express down stuff. It will need the motor load to work properly. The express down module un-latches when it detects the motor stall current (which is greater) when the motor stops at the end of its travel.

Does the passenger window work when operated with the passenger door switch?

Don't worry too much about the "car won't start" behavior when you jumper the cig lighter power to the switch. That's not something that you want to do, and are basically feeding power where it's not supposed to be in some other circuits that are attached to the retained accessory power it would seem.

buugiewuugie

Good stuff, thank you for explaining that.

I pulled the driver side switch from the door panel, flipped it over, and literally stuck a wire inside the back side of the plug in the port with the yellow wire. And then ran the other end of the wire into the left instrument panel. I pulled the fuse for the cigarette lighter, and stuck the wire in in the spot of the fuse.

I'll give this a try.

Negative. The windows do not work from any switch in the car.


I figured it was crossing some connections or something, just wanted to make sure it wasn't a clue to the issue. Good to know.

buugiewuugie

A couple of other notes that I failed to mention.

- I recently had a BCM replaced and programmed. The dealership could not get the windows to work after programming, though the issue was present before the BCM was replaced. The BCM was replaced because some systems didn't work, like the warning sounds, the check engine light, the horn blaring in reverse, stereo features locked or missing.

- The radio lights flicker sometimes. And if I adjust (brighten or dim) the dash lights via the headlight switch, the radio flickers and sometimes will go completely out until I readjust the switch.

Now, I don't really care about the radio lights issue, but just figured I'd throw that in there in case it could have something to do with the windows. But I don't believe they are on the same circuit.

Fabrik8

Radio lights are most likely unrelated. That's a partial failure of the dimmer switch, or it may just be slightly corroded or dirty. Are you saying the radio shuts off, or the lights go out?

Fabrik8

That's one of the more interesting things you've said.... Hmm.



Ugh, where did this shitty schematic come from?
There's an error in the schematic at the UP switch for the passenger window on the drivers control panel (upper middle-ish of the schematic). The arrow at terminal B should connect to the UP switch, not to the dot at the ground junction. At least it's an obvious mistake...

I think you need to disconnect the window motor and see what happens. Basically the up/down switches reverse power and ground to the motor. When the down button is pressed, motor terminal A is connector to power, and terminal B to ground. When you press the up button, term B is connected to power and term A to ground. You can check this behavior at the switch module output when the motor is disconnected.

I'm still iffy on what would cause all of the windows to not work though, so I'm leaning toward a more global problem and not something related to the switches or window motors themselves. A bad drivers window motor/switch would not affect the other window motors, unless the problem is the power going to the switch module. When you cycle ignition power (you say everything resets), the passenger window should work perfectly fine, as the drivers side is not in a fault condition yet. The fact that this doesn't hold true is what points toward something more global.

The window lockout switch supplies power to all the other window motors/switches, unless those motors are actuated directly from the drivers control panel. The schematic doesn't show the rear windows, but they should be identical copies of the passenger switch/motor schematic section. A problem with the drivers motor will not affect the passenger motor if the drivers side is not in a fault condition.

buugiewuugie

Thanks Fabrik8 for putting in the time. I am going to try disconnecting the motor this weekend and I'll update you with what I find.