Hooch

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The real Ryan

Define no power. No power would be the car won't even start... At what rpm are you experiencing the power falling off?

What is a code 21 and what was the car doing before you messed with it? Also, is the pressure sensor and ground hooked back up on the vtec solenoid?

Hooch

no power means after about 3 grand in 2nd gear you can hit the pedal and it revs but kinda slow just the speed you arent going anywhere ... the code 21 is vtec solenoid and the car was fine before hand and the sensors i just unhooked them and hooked em back up

Fabrik8

Check the timing. It sounds like you've turned the distributor or something like that.

The real Ryan

Wouldn't you have to ground the ecu in order to advance/retard timing by turning the distributor? I can't remember the OBD1 stuff.

The real Ryan

Pull the cap of the distributor and check the rotor button contact and the plug wire contacts. How do they look?

Fabrik8

The service check connector is what you're thinking about. It makes the ECU stop adjusting the timing so the ECU won't adjust the advance when the timing is set mechanically. When you do change the timing mechanically, the ECU can only compensate within a limited range, so if the mechanical timing is wrong then the engine will run like crap. That what I think is going on in this situation.

The real Ryan

So his car should be idling rough in that case correct?

Fabrik8

Not necessarily. If the timing is off just enough to be a problem, it's possible to start having problems up in the RPM range when the timing can't be advanced enough. I think the timing is likely too retarded to make good power, but it's not that hard to idle properly if the ECU can still adjust timing enough at idle.

Scotty_Nooo

+1 i had a similar problem in the past the dizzy was off center causing the timing to be throw out of wack. Will it let you go past 3-4 grand while driving? Or does it sputter and hesitate to get past that rpm range?