k20a3 into dc2 questions
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k20a3 into dc2 questions
This isnt a what I need thread its a difference of products I question about.
1. hasport axles vs ones you make.
From what I have gathered a few years ago hasport driveshafts were unbalanced and that is something that I need for peace of mind and safety. But this was a couple years ago.
Plus at 300 bucks for a set of axles seems crazy were I can save some cash and do it myself.
What is needed to make a swap axle? Think you use the stock teg outer coupling and the rest is stock rsx, correct?
2. kpro vs aem ems vs. stock ecu with imobilizer.
Kpro is very good, used alot. tuners in the area are knowledgeable on tuning with hondata products. 900 is what I figure the average price for the ecu, 1100 for a guy just to call a shop and have it done without shopping around.
AEM EMS is best. period I realize. I worry about tuners in the area knowledge base though. it can also handle the mods I forsee in the next year. Built k20/k24 hybrid engine, 60 trim turbo, water/meth, ebc.
And the cheapest for now, is stock ecu with imobilizer from hybrid racing. This is all I would require to have the car running reliable, correct?
3. Fuel system
I have some 3/8" fuel lines from my 69 mustang efi conversion a couple years ago. The k20 is a returnless fuel system though. so what kind of regulator is best and least expensive?
4. Shifter box
Since I have the 5 speed, I have to stick with the base rsx shifter box and cables or can the rsx-s (6 spd) shifter box and cables work with the 5 speed.
I realize the clutch lines are different as well. I will probably make those myself as they are 95 from hybrid (tucked, untucked is 75) and I can make them for near 20 bucks. probably go the easy route and order though.
5. wiring conversion hasport vs hybrid racing
hybrid racing is 350 where as hasport is like 275 i believe. from the pics on hybrid racing the hasport is itty bitty. is the hasport only the engine and not the full conversion kit or is it just the pics?
Money is an issue but safety, reliability and future modification supports is even more of a thought.
Taking it home to new orleans for my sisters wedding begining of april. yes if you have parts for this swap I am interested.
1. hasport axles vs ones you make.
From what I have gathered a few years ago hasport driveshafts were unbalanced and that is something that I need for peace of mind and safety. But this was a couple years ago.
Plus at 300 bucks for a set of axles seems crazy were I can save some cash and do it myself.
What is needed to make a swap axle? Think you use the stock teg outer coupling and the rest is stock rsx, correct?
2. kpro vs aem ems vs. stock ecu with imobilizer.
Kpro is very good, used alot. tuners in the area are knowledgeable on tuning with hondata products. 900 is what I figure the average price for the ecu, 1100 for a guy just to call a shop and have it done without shopping around.
AEM EMS is best. period I realize. I worry about tuners in the area knowledge base though. it can also handle the mods I forsee in the next year. Built k20/k24 hybrid engine, 60 trim turbo, water/meth, ebc.
And the cheapest for now, is stock ecu with imobilizer from hybrid racing. This is all I would require to have the car running reliable, correct?
3. Fuel system
I have some 3/8" fuel lines from my 69 mustang efi conversion a couple years ago. The k20 is a returnless fuel system though. so what kind of regulator is best and least expensive?
4. Shifter box
Since I have the 5 speed, I have to stick with the base rsx shifter box and cables or can the rsx-s (6 spd) shifter box and cables work with the 5 speed.
I realize the clutch lines are different as well. I will probably make those myself as they are 95 from hybrid (tucked, untucked is 75) and I can make them for near 20 bucks. probably go the easy route and order though.
5. wiring conversion hasport vs hybrid racing
hybrid racing is 350 where as hasport is like 275 i believe. from the pics on hybrid racing the hasport is itty bitty. is the hasport only the engine and not the full conversion kit or is it just the pics?
Money is an issue but safety, reliability and future modification supports is even more of a thought.
Taking it home to new orleans for my sisters wedding begining of april. yes if you have parts for this swap I am interested.
Last edited by SCREECHO; 02-22-2010 at 01:14 AM. Reason: mustang after 69.
#2
Re: k20a3 into dc2 questions
KPRO only anything else is bs u have to use a 5 speed box build your own axels cost less get the job done non the less and do the hybrid raccing harness
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Re: k20a3 into dc2 questions
1. $300 for a set of axles is cheap, especially if they're a higher torque upgrade over stock. Honda people want everything for free apparently. But, if you can piece them together yourself, do it.
2. AEM is not best, just well advertised. Why is it that Honda people know exactly one brand of aftermarket ECU? There are many other brands of aftermarket ECUs on the market. A KPro setup is a very good choice though.
3. Why not use the stock regulator on the stock fuel rail?
4. Order them, especially if they're crimped/swaged lines. Or, get someone locally to make them for you. If you have the proper hydraulic crimp tooling, make them yourself. It's just a clutch line though, nothing special.
5. Don't care.
2. AEM is not best, just well advertised. Why is it that Honda people know exactly one brand of aftermarket ECU? There are many other brands of aftermarket ECUs on the market. A KPro setup is a very good choice though.
3. Why not use the stock regulator on the stock fuel rail?
4. Order them, especially if they're crimped/swaged lines. Or, get someone locally to make them for you. If you have the proper hydraulic crimp tooling, make them yourself. It's just a clutch line though, nothing special.
5. Don't care.
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Re: k20a3 into dc2 questions
1. $300 for a set of axles is cheap, especially if they're a higher torque upgrade over stock. Honda people want everything for free apparently. But, if you can piece them together yourself, do it.
2. AEM is not best, just well advertised. Why is it that Honda people know exactly one brand of aftermarket ECU? There are many other brands of aftermarket ECUs on the market. A KPro setup is a very good choice though.
3. Why not use the stock regulator on the stock fuel rail?
4. Order them, especially if they're crimped/swaged lines. Or, get someone locally to make them for you. If you have the proper hydraulic crimp tooling, make them yourself. It's just a clutch line though, nothing special.
5. Don't care.
2. AEM is not best, just well advertised. Why is it that Honda people know exactly one brand of aftermarket ECU? There are many other brands of aftermarket ECUs on the market. A KPro setup is a very good choice though.
3. Why not use the stock regulator on the stock fuel rail?
4. Order them, especially if they're crimped/swaged lines. Or, get someone locally to make them for you. If you have the proper hydraulic crimp tooling, make them yourself. It's just a clutch line though, nothing special.
5. Don't care.
I found a site that has the information to make your own, correct me if I am wrong:
B outers with shaft and input from rsx
honda guys always want things for free? haha seriously no. not sure who you were trying to call out on that one. I claim mustangs more than honda's anyways, but this is a nice car and rather do something other than the normal turbo b
There are different parameters for each individual software and if one gets to be fully knowledgeable on one certain type of software your final tune will be better than a guy that is experienced with this type and this type and this type- this is just what I have seen. constantly working with one type of software is always best, right? consistence makes perfection.
Is there other stand alones you reccomend that are plug n play for the 94-01 teg k swap?
I cant recall what the problem was with running the stock fuel regulator but it had to deal with the returnless fuel system in the k20 setup.
Yeah I made the call to jegs and got some fittings. have some lines laying around. not my first clutch line re did my 85 4runner brakes and clutch lines years ago.
and yes, just the stock usdm ecu with immobilizer to remove the anti-theft. with k pro or another manufactures stand alone makes it completely tuneable. When the k swaps first started the jdm dc5 ecu was used because it does not have a anti-theft or pats (ford) system.
Last edited by SCREECHO; 02-22-2010 at 10:14 AM.
#5
Re: k20a3 into dc2 questions
Serious note, why are u building a a3? They are the worse out of the k series.
You stated u want to make a k20/24 monster. I hope ur not usuing the a3 head on a k24 block. The whole "ivtec" is garbage on that head. I dnt want it to seem like I'm putting u down, cause I'm not. I'm just asking.
You stated u want to make a k20/24 monster. I hope ur not usuing the a3 head on a k24 block. The whole "ivtec" is garbage on that head. I dnt want it to seem like I'm putting u down, cause I'm not. I'm just asking.
#6
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Re: k20a3 into dc2 questions
nah, man this is just the base to get everything converted so when I get around to puting the boosted setup in I shouldnt run into many issues.
just ordered my hybrid racing harness, hr billet shifter, and k swap header. sending out for k pro tomorrow.
just ordered my hybrid racing harness, hr billet shifter, and k swap header. sending out for k pro tomorrow.
Last edited by SCREECHO; 02-22-2010 at 01:57 PM.
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