vtec_eater

ok so i have swapped a f20b into a 97 accord. i can run the car on the stock poj-l61 ecu with some issues but it starts. i can also run the car on a chipped p13 with h22 chip obd1 with jumper no when i go and put a obd2a h22 ecu in it there is no injector pulse. wtf! i can ground the injectors an d they fire. so the ecu isan't grounding them as it should. i though that i had a bad ecu but i replaced it with two other known good h22 ecu's and the same thing. is there a ground on the ecu that is different than the rest? also a big part is that the car is an auto! sucks but i'm swapping it for this guy. so not much choice. the othere option is to run the chipped p13 and some how put power to the stock computer and run the trans plug to that one only and the rest to the p13. whats everyones input. thanks

Fabrik8

You apparently have a wiring issue, and I'm guessing that the ECU isn't trying to fire the injectors at all. I don't think this has anything to do with a ground, I think it has to do with some other problem. You're automatically assuming that the ECU is happy and that there is some injector wiring problem, but I think it's not happy and it's not trying to run anything. If it will run marginally with the stock (OBD2) ECU, then the injector wiring is fine.

I don't really know anything about F20Bs, do they have a knock sensor, and do they have an IAB setup like the H22? It's possible that you have a fault that is keeping the ECU from wanting to run the engine properly.

I guess my other thought is that if you have a USDM OBD2 ECU, and a JDM engine, and the JDM engine is missing the crank fluctuation sensor, you'll have big problems. If this is the case, you can Google "CKF bypass". The crank fluctuation sensor is down by the oil pump..

vtec_eater

the f20b's do have knock sensor. i figured my wiring was fine because both the other ecu's ran just fine. besides the obd2 h22 ecu's so i didn't knwo if the pinouts were off. i wired that crank sensor into the distributor so i have fire. the only thing i'm not getting is injector puls. it kicks the fuel pump on and everything. like i said before i can ground them out manualy and they will fire. but if it is in a safe mode i could see where it would not fire but my thing is where would i start. there are no trouble codes.

Fabrik8

The pinouts are the same for all OBD2a (96-98) Honda ECUs, so if the stock OBD2a ECU ran the engine, all grounds, etc., are where they should be. That's why I'm saying you have another problem. If your ECU harness is OBD2a, and the ECU is OBD2a, which means that the ECU harness plugs right into the ECU, then you have all the grounds that you need and your problem is elsewhere.

What crank sensor into the distributor? You have two crank sensor inputs on the OBD2 ECU, so you're saying you already bypassed the crank fluctuation sensor input to the ECU by splicing it into the crank sensor in the distributor?

The OBD1 ECUs don't look for a crank fluctuation sensor.

I don't know what else the problem could be without visibly giving a CEL.

Does the H22 ECU have an immobilizer board inside? I can't remember when they started doing that, but I don't think it was nearly that early, and it wasn't in all models anyway.

vtec_eater

ohhh ok i get what your saying now. with the f20b the crank sensor is not there it is located in the distributor. i ran the 4 wires from the crank pully side to the distributor. the crank, cam, ignitor is all in the distributor. but you might be on to somthing. what do i have to do to bypass it. i never read anything on how to do it. is there a link? and i belive it does have the immobilizer.

Fabrik8

The crank sensor for all Hondas is in the distributor. The crank fluctuation sensor is different, and it's an extra sensor that is usually not on JDM engines but is on all OBD2 USDM engines as far as I know.

Everything you need should be here:
http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/ckftrick.htm

Pay attention to the updated info. I just skimmed over everything and it looks reasonable.

Please do me a favor and don't use the "quick splice" taps that they use in the how-to. They're absolute garbage and not a legitimate way to splice wires as far as I'm concerned. Those are the cause of about 75% of all the car alarm malfunctions I've ever seen (the other 25% is from cheap relays), if that says anything.

vtec_eater

hey thanks man i am going to head down to the shop tommorow and see if this works. ( i'm a dsm guy haha)

nftuatn

pm my88crxvtec...he is a wizz at ecus..

Fabrik8

It was going so well until that point.

nftuatn

lmao...i couldnt resist man...just trying to help a fellow sponsor out....

even though we do not claim him as one of our own...