ricedoutaccord

i have a 96 accord ex with a jdm h22a swap in it . i have the obd2 to odb1 jumper harness and a p28 on hondata. the car for some reason acts up sometimes and sounds like the ignition system is breaking down. it will run fine for a while . right now it is currently acting up
i was reading about the oil pressure switchs can make this happen. does anyone know what it could be or can point me in the direction on what to try next?

Fabrik8

Any CELs? What do you mean by "breaking down", is it stuttering, hesitating, etc? Also, did this just start when there was a change in the weather, like a much lower outside temperature?

ricedoutaccord

im not shure what you mean by CELs
breaking down i mean is sounds like the the cylinders are cutting out is smokes and raw fuel smell
also the car sounds like a wrx while accerating ..
it has done it a few times the car had msd on it i took it off thinking it was the problem and i wasent
warm, cold dosent matter i switched ecus to see if the hondata or ecu was acting up no change
the car was running fine last night when i was driving it then i halled ass a little and it started it

Fabrik8

A CEL is a Check Engine Light.

Is this happening at a certain throttle position or RPM, or when VTEC engages (if it is engaging), or when??

You say you're switching ECUs to see if it's the Hondata or ECU, etc. Have you actually got that ECU tuned? The Hondata hardware is just there to enable the ECU to run a program made with the Hondata tuning software, so if that ECU hasn't been tuned for your engine, you're going to have problems. If you switch to a different ECU, you're going to have problems. It sounds like you have a timing problem or a bad engine position sensor (crank angle, cam position, etc) but a position sensor problem would usually cause the CEL to flash.
You could have something like a bad coil (bad distributor) or plug wires, or something like a cracked spark plug. What you are describing sounds like either bad timing or one cylinder having a problem.
Could also be a bad TPS or MAP sensor also. You should get a factory service manual (not a Haynes or Chilton manual, they're worthless) and check those sensors to see if they're working properly.

This isn't something like plug wires connected in the wrong places or the timing belt jumping timing because both of those things cause the engine to run rough all the time, not just some of the time.

Which oil pressure switch are you talking about, the VTEC oil pressure switch?

h22_Lude

I had a firebird that would run fine and then all of a sudden the engine light would come on a run like shit and the exhaust would smell like raw gas. It turns out one of the oxygen sensors had a really bad short. So maybe check the oxygen sensor too

Fabrik8

Good point, I didn't think about that. I usually don't think about O2 sensors having a total failure like that, but yeah, that could be it.

ricedoutaccord

it dosent have a check engine light .
the ecu i switched it with was a p28 on chrome that was tuned for a ls vtec i wanted to eliminate it being the ecu or hondata.. the hondata is tuned for the car has been in there for like 3 to 4 years
i was thinking the coil it has a msd blaster coil on there.. im picking up a oem one tonight on my way home toget try that. i put wires, plugs, cap, rotor on a few months ago when it did this the first time .. i also replaced the tps on the car because it was consuming fuel and would not idel smooth .. when this happened the cel didnt come on eather i unpluged the tps and it came on. we took a oms reading on it and found out it was putting 5 volts out at neutral position.
i read that theres a oil pressure sensor near the oil filter in the Back of the engine that will make the car act like this if its bad.

h22_Lude

Make friends with a honda tech or bring it to the dealer and have them plug it up to their diagnostic computer. When I had trouble with my oxygen sensor I plugged it up to the normal advance or autozone diagnostic and it said nothing about an oxygen sensor. I dont know about Honda but the GM diagnostic computer broke it down to quarter seconds and they were able to see that it was a oxygen sensor. I know dealerships charge way too much but it might be worth it, it sounds like you already spent a few hunderd

ricedoutaccord

i have a scaner.. i scaned it and no codes .. figures..

popwars123

i think he's talking about a solus scanner...the ones that are $4k+