ScorchTeg

I am purchasing a b18b turbo this weekend that I need to build. I have rods and pistons, head studs that I am transfering from a cracked b18b block to a new block. I know I am going to need to get new rings and bearings, but is there anything else I should get? I am new to the turbo game, I have always been an N/A guy so Im sorry if these questions sound stupid. I also would like to know what sleeving the block entails. Its it parts, machine shop work, or a combo of the two? Also is there a recommended brand for the bearings? any other tips would be awesome.

patrck

I wouldn't re-use the head studs. Just buy new ones (ARP) to be safe. Use OEM bearings. As always, belts and pumps should be replaced if they haven't been recently. Possibly a thicker head gasket to lower your compression a tiny bit.

Generally sleeving a block will be a combination of the sleeves, and machine work. The block will be cleaned and honed, and in most cases, bored out, before the sleeves are installed.

If you're not putting in forged internals, I don't see the point in sleeving your block right now. The ringlands are going to give far before you reach the point of needing a sleeved block. I've heard the B18B rods are good to 400whp but I'd rather not test that out.

ScorchTeg

I have JE pistons and eagle rods going in it. Thats good to hear that the sleeving is probably not needed. I have a deck guard so hopefully that should suffice. You think that the oem bearings will work ok though?

patrck

Whether to get your block sleeved or not depends on your max HP. They should be good to 400, but it really depends on the tune. OEM bearings are fine. Some people prefer ACL, I think they're slightly cheaper.

ScorchTeg

cool thanks for the help man

JAvenger

oem bearings, give the block and pistons to the machine shop and they will let you know exactly what you need to do. also, get the bottom end balanced while its at the machine shop. the machine shop with deck the block, i would give them your head to be decked too, you want everything to be squared up right. and clay the motor, so you can get the correct head gasket thickness.

1gawd

Very important not to forget fuel....lots more. For a mild setup (6-10lb), I would go with a walbro pump and a good regulator (paxton is great). It will prove to be a very well spent $250.00.

tmac1129

dude...re-sleeving is alot of machine work...you have to mill out the old sleeves, press in the new ones with a hydrolic press...and then you have to bore out the new sleves to the correct size and then cross hatch the sides...its pretty expensive I would think. also if you're looking into serious boost(big money into tuning and fuel management as well as the turbo) then I suggest when you build and resleeve to close the deck as well...open deck is aweful for high boost. eagle sells a closed deck piece for the B18...it just has to be pressed and welded into place...but make sure the shop you take the car to knows how to do it...make sure they aren't fucking around.

00civichatch

yeah sleeveing will cost an ass load maybe $2k for parts and labor... abacus does some damn good work though

ZeroMR

Sleeving costs about $1000, the most expensive sleeving job is from AEBS and the cost $1400.