Disconnecting cc
#1
Disconnecting cc
I was wondering if anyone has a write up on how to take out my cruise control? I got a new aftermarket steering wheel and since the controls are on the side of the stock wheel they won't work plus I figured I'd try an clean up the engine bay while I'm at it haha
#2
WEEEEEEEEEEE
Re: Disconnecting cc
And you aren't gonna do much engine bay clean up buy getting rid of cruise control. Remove your AC, power steering, and ABS.
#3
Re: Disconnecting cc
I did get a wheel that doesn't have controls. I'm just not sure how to disconnect it. And the best way?
#4
WEEEEEEEEEEE
#5
Re: Disconnecting cc
Quick search pulled up:
Would have helped to include a car make/model but I'm going to go ahead and guess that you own a honda http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=905989
Would have helped to include a car make/model but I'm going to go ahead and guess that you own a honda http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=905989
Tools Needed
10 mm wrench
Needle Nose pliers
Tin snips or Dikes
3/8 ratchet
10 mm socket
6 or 12 in 3/8 extension
Phillips head screwdriver
1) Remove the battery as a safety precaution, use the 10mm wrench or socket
2) Remove the vacuum line on the IM and cap it with a vacuum cap. These are available at any auto parts store, i just got the assorted variety pack.
3) Remove the extra vacuum lines leading to the actuator
4) Disconnect the electrical connector, tuck the wiring harness side away near the headlight/washer reservoir.
5) Now trace the cable coming from the actuator to the firewall, then look under the dash on the gas pedal to locate the cruise control cable. Its circled in blue in the pic below
6) Disconnect the cable at the actuator to release some slack at the pedal.
7) now take the tin snips or dikes and clip the cable as close to the pedal as possible. I didn't see any other way of releasing it other then clipping it. So if anyone one knows of an easier way to release it then post it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munscher from prelude online
As for removing the cable from the accel. pedal... i just bent the metal tab over enough to slide the cable end out and then bent it back.
8) Now take off the cable guide on the firewall. It twists counter clockwise and pulls out. Remove the cable.
9) At this point you can find a plug for the firewall or be a cheap ass like me and reuse the cable guide to plug the hole in the firewall. I just trimmed it with dikes and clipped it back in the hole. Make sure you reinstall the rubber grommet if doing this.
10) Now you can remove the actuator and brackets. I just removed the bolts holding the bracket to the car and removed the actuator/bracket as 1 piece.
11) There is a large rubber hose coming off the actuator leading in to the fender well. Remove this and the grommet from the car.
12) now you need to remove the screws/bolts holding the splash guard on.
13) Once the splash guard is loose you can gain access to the vacuum reservoir tank. There is a 10 mm bolt holding the tank in. Remove it, then the tank. Once the tank is out, reinstall this bolt as it holds the windshield washer reservoir.
14) reinstall the splash guard and hook up the battery and your done.
15) Put away your tools and drink a beer
10 mm wrench
Needle Nose pliers
Tin snips or Dikes
3/8 ratchet
10 mm socket
6 or 12 in 3/8 extension
Phillips head screwdriver
1) Remove the battery as a safety precaution, use the 10mm wrench or socket
2) Remove the vacuum line on the IM and cap it with a vacuum cap. These are available at any auto parts store, i just got the assorted variety pack.
3) Remove the extra vacuum lines leading to the actuator
4) Disconnect the electrical connector, tuck the wiring harness side away near the headlight/washer reservoir.
5) Now trace the cable coming from the actuator to the firewall, then look under the dash on the gas pedal to locate the cruise control cable. Its circled in blue in the pic below
6) Disconnect the cable at the actuator to release some slack at the pedal.
7) now take the tin snips or dikes and clip the cable as close to the pedal as possible. I didn't see any other way of releasing it other then clipping it. So if anyone one knows of an easier way to release it then post it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munscher from prelude online
As for removing the cable from the accel. pedal... i just bent the metal tab over enough to slide the cable end out and then bent it back.
8) Now take off the cable guide on the firewall. It twists counter clockwise and pulls out. Remove the cable.
9) At this point you can find a plug for the firewall or be a cheap ass like me and reuse the cable guide to plug the hole in the firewall. I just trimmed it with dikes and clipped it back in the hole. Make sure you reinstall the rubber grommet if doing this.
10) Now you can remove the actuator and brackets. I just removed the bolts holding the bracket to the car and removed the actuator/bracket as 1 piece.
11) There is a large rubber hose coming off the actuator leading in to the fender well. Remove this and the grommet from the car.
12) now you need to remove the screws/bolts holding the splash guard on.
13) Once the splash guard is loose you can gain access to the vacuum reservoir tank. There is a 10 mm bolt holding the tank in. Remove it, then the tank. Once the tank is out, reinstall this bolt as it holds the windshield washer reservoir.
14) reinstall the splash guard and hook up the battery and your done.
15) Put away your tools and drink a beer
#6
Re: Disconnecting cc
Quick search pulled up:
Would have helped to include a car make/model but I'm going to go ahead and guess that you own a honda http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=905989
Would have helped to include a car make/model but I'm going to go ahead and guess that you own a honda http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=905989
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post