clutch
#1
clutch
Whats going on people. I have just purchased a 1990 240sx se and am going to need to replace the clutch very soon. I was wondering what all is involved in this process like how long would it take to change, what i need to do it, and if i should try and do it myself. Thanks
#2
I have a 20 valve...
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Location: Sunny San Diego, CA
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Re: clutch
well help us out and tell us your car knowledge. Do you know what a socket wrench is? Torque wrench? Lefty Loosey righty tighty?
If its your first major mod or work with a car, I would ask for some help. Swapping clutches is fairly easy. Go to Autozone and get a book for your car. That will at least get you started.
If its your first major mod or work with a car, I would ask for some help. Swapping clutches is fairly easy. Go to Autozone and get a book for your car. That will at least get you started.
#3
Re: clutch
i have turned wrenches on my car before i dont have any professional training but i can figure out pretty much anything i get into. Once i get my tax return i plan on buying the factory service manual. Is there anything else i should replace besides what is included in most clutch kits?
#5
HOORAY BEER!!
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Re: clutch
Make sure the Clutch Kit has ALL the goodies (throw-out bearing, alignment tool, etc) or you will be a very pissed off dude when you get half way through your project.
#7
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Re: clutch
Parts:
Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing/bushing) I'd stay away from a stock replacement, go ahead and spring for a nice ACT or SPEC stage 2 or 3. You'll be glad you did later.
Resurfaced stock flywheel or lightweight replacement
3 qts of 75-90w gear oil (I like Redline)
A few cans of brake cleaner
Tools:
Metric combination wrenches
Metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2")
Ratchets
Torque wrench
Various lengths of extensions (long ones come in very handy)
Universal Joints (I like the impact universals because they don't flop around)
Drain pan
I can't give you a complete break down of the clutch job. There are alot of articles out there about it. Search 240sxforums.com for a better write up.
Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands
Disconnect the battery
Remove the starter
Mark drive shaft for correct orientation
Remove the drive shaft: 4 bolts at the pinion flange (14mm be sure to have a 12 point wrench) and the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing. After the pinion flange and carrier bearing are loose the drive shaft can be removed by pulling it straight back. Have the drain pan ready, as the gear oil will start flowing out of the tailshaft
Remove clutch slave cylinder and tie up out of the way
Remove the Shifter handle
Remove the plastic console trim
Remove the rubber shifter boot
Remove the shifter 6 12mm bolts hold this in, the 4 around the shifter are easy. The front 2 bolts can be tricky, just be patient with a combination wrench and they'll come out. Pull straight up on the shifter to remove the assembly, don't lose the spring under the assembly
Remove the transmission crossmember
Remove the bell housing bolts
Slide the transmission back off the dowel pins This may take some wiggling
Rotate the transmission 180 degrees (upside down) This is the only way the bell housing will clear the trans tunnel due to the starter boss
Jack up the engine using a board under the oil pan
Slide the transmission back and out
Place clutch tool into the old clutch assembly
Remove pressure plate bolts
Remove clutch assembly
Remove flywheel bolts You may need to use a pry bar against the teeth to hold it still
Replace pilot bearing I usually break the old one into small pieces with a chisel and then blow it out with compressed air. Install the new one by tapping it in w/a hammer and socket. Be careful not to break it.
Replace throw out bearing
Clean clutch particles from inside of bell housing
Resurface or replace flywheel
Torque flywheel bolts to 110ft/lbs
Clean flywheel with brake cleaner
Clean clutch disc and pressure plate with brake cleaner
Place clutch disc on flywheel w/alignment tool Make sure to put the engine side against the flywheel or vice versa. It should be marked
Install pressure plate over clutch disc and alignment tool
Torque pressure plate bolts to 20ft/lbs
Remove alignment tool
Installation is reverse of removal
This should get you started. A transmission jack and a helper are good to have. The trans isn't SUPER heavy, but you won't want it laying on your chest. Allow the clutch to break in for about 500 miles before beating on it.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing/bushing) I'd stay away from a stock replacement, go ahead and spring for a nice ACT or SPEC stage 2 or 3. You'll be glad you did later.
Resurfaced stock flywheel or lightweight replacement
3 qts of 75-90w gear oil (I like Redline)
A few cans of brake cleaner
Tools:
Metric combination wrenches
Metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2")
Ratchets
Torque wrench
Various lengths of extensions (long ones come in very handy)
Universal Joints (I like the impact universals because they don't flop around)
Drain pan
I can't give you a complete break down of the clutch job. There are alot of articles out there about it. Search 240sxforums.com for a better write up.
Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands
Disconnect the battery
Remove the starter
Mark drive shaft for correct orientation
Remove the drive shaft: 4 bolts at the pinion flange (14mm be sure to have a 12 point wrench) and the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing. After the pinion flange and carrier bearing are loose the drive shaft can be removed by pulling it straight back. Have the drain pan ready, as the gear oil will start flowing out of the tailshaft
Remove clutch slave cylinder and tie up out of the way
Remove the Shifter handle
Remove the plastic console trim
Remove the rubber shifter boot
Remove the shifter 6 12mm bolts hold this in, the 4 around the shifter are easy. The front 2 bolts can be tricky, just be patient with a combination wrench and they'll come out. Pull straight up on the shifter to remove the assembly, don't lose the spring under the assembly
Remove the transmission crossmember
Remove the bell housing bolts
Slide the transmission back off the dowel pins This may take some wiggling
Rotate the transmission 180 degrees (upside down) This is the only way the bell housing will clear the trans tunnel due to the starter boss
Jack up the engine using a board under the oil pan
Slide the transmission back and out
Place clutch tool into the old clutch assembly
Remove pressure plate bolts
Remove clutch assembly
Remove flywheel bolts You may need to use a pry bar against the teeth to hold it still
Replace pilot bearing I usually break the old one into small pieces with a chisel and then blow it out with compressed air. Install the new one by tapping it in w/a hammer and socket. Be careful not to break it.
Replace throw out bearing
Clean clutch particles from inside of bell housing
Resurface or replace flywheel
Torque flywheel bolts to 110ft/lbs
Clean flywheel with brake cleaner
Clean clutch disc and pressure plate with brake cleaner
Place clutch disc on flywheel w/alignment tool Make sure to put the engine side against the flywheel or vice versa. It should be marked
Install pressure plate over clutch disc and alignment tool
Torque pressure plate bolts to 20ft/lbs
Remove alignment tool
Installation is reverse of removal
This should get you started. A transmission jack and a helper are good to have. The trans isn't SUPER heavy, but you won't want it laying on your chest. Allow the clutch to break in for about 500 miles before beating on it.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Last edited by WarriorBlaZe; 02-08-2006 at 01:00 PM.
#9
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Re: clutch
i would like to add one step that helps out drastically when trying to get to the top bellhousing bolts on the overly-tall nissan bellhousings. There are 4 bolts that hold the front crossmember. I beleive they are 19mm. Loosen them to the last few threads, thus dropping the engine and tranny an inch or so, and this will help very much when getting to the top tranny bolts. good luck.
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