dogg4217

Know this is probably be done before and I have searched threads and read info but everyones ideas go back and forth so here is what I have read carefully so we can keep on the subject.
I have a 99 civic ex the d16y8 spun a bearing I don't want to fix this motor period..Ultimately I want a gs-r engine for boost however I was thinking go with cheaper motor swap MAYBE...here is my questions...this car will be daily driven I plan on getting a turbo setup...most likely a t3/t4 turbo setup running fmic, bigger injectors, hondata s300, fuel pump the whole kit...I plan on spending 3-4k just for the turbo setup... I know this part...I want it to be tuned and running right so I am getting all the parts and I am going to have it tuned running around 250-300whp.....remember this is a daily driver....My question is which engine for the money and reliability will hold up to this much hp being daily driven.... b20/b16 vtec head, ls/b16head or a b16a2...the motor will be a obd2 with a obd1 jumper harness going to the ecu. Which ever motor I decide to get I will be putting sleeves, pistons, rods, headgasket, block gaurd on it and the head will be mainly stock with ctr cams in it with adjustable cam gears, lightened pullies, flywheel, peformance clutch running a lsd b16 tranny. So remember there are 3 motors to choose from they will be built...give me ideas of which one responds better to mods, which one is reliable for everyday driving on 250-300 whp and I am not going to be running the piss out of it everyday I want this to last for years....which one will cost the less to build remember ls and crv blocks aren't designed to hit 8k in rpm so they will have to have a block girdle put in and also I will need to get the golden eagle vtec kit to fit the vtec head on it..or is better to get a b16a2....Remember I would love to get a b18c but for a $1000 more maybe I can build a cheaper swap that can match up to a boosted gs-r swap. I will be building the motor and have a machine shop down the road that can install the sleeves...give me ideas on what swap to use what bore size, best low compression pistons, and rods to use for daily driven and on weekends I will be turning the boost up to get more hp and then for daily driven the boost will go down for a safe hp to run....let me know if there is anything else you need to know about what I want to do...positive feedback only THANKS

MP5

Well i did not really read everything you said. If you only want 250-300whp and you plan on getting a EMS like the s300 then you do not need a built motor. I have a stock down to stock headgasket B20b that i have been running 1bar of boost on for close to a year and a half now with a t3/t04b 60-1. When tuned i put 267whp and 224wtq and ran 12.5 at the track, then i went and had my tune leaned out and added a MSD ignition and ran 12.0 @111 missing 5th gear and 12.1 @120 spinning the slicks down the track. I also delivered pizza for dominos in the car for 8-9 months putting who knows how many miles on the car and non of which were easy. Just recently have my piston rings in cylinder 4 started giving out. Compression check 130, 190, 195, 200.

With that said, when i was planning on building a motor i was going to buy a b18 and bore it to 84mm. Run cp pistons and manely rods, and throw a b16 or type r head on it.

If i were to go with another stock motor and had the money to spend i would probably choose the gsr motor.

crxnfx

first off the 3-4k that you want to spend will only buy that turbo kit. you know that right? unless you're going junkyard turbo.

Then your post became a little obscure because you stated you only wanted to spend that much, but wanted frankenstein motors, which cost some to build.

stock gsr will take 7.5 lb's with a little tuning.

b18a/b will take 7.5 lb's right out of the box.

b16a2's will take 13 with fuel management (i've seen 271 at the wheels on low boost)

KYLE ROSE

Any of the motors stated above with the amount of money and parts you plan on spending would reach your daily driven goal easily. I would go with the b20vtec with stock bore on arias low comp piston ( 9:1, 9:6:1 ) hung on a eagle h beam rod no block guard they tend to melt the pistons due to no coolant circulation at the top of the cylinder. The sleeves you will be installing will hold of just fine under boost. The oiling system on the b20 is junk i would go with a type r oil pump just ot be safe and a block girdle also. As far as the head goes a ctr cam will do really nice and a type r or stunk intake manifold wouldnt hurt either. I would diffently invest in some titanium valve springs and retainers this will save you from a retainer cracking and a valve dropping on your nice new pistons a nice port and polish on the head would help also. 440 injectors should do the trick for the power your looking at. With all this your motor should make well over 300 whp .But if money is no object then i would go with the gsr. Better oiling system it has oil squirters a block girdle and a better rod ratio to go well above 8k safely. Hope this info helps you out.

dogg4217

I put this in my first post "I plan on spending 3-4k just for the turbo setup" thats just for the turbo setup not the motor...I know I will be spending more I would like to get a GS-R but am weighing my options right now because you can get ls and crv long block anywhere from $800-$1500 so I wanted some feedback....and on what you commented about how much psi an engine will hold its really not how much psi can hold its how much horsepower it will hold I can get a very small turbo and boost it to 15lbs and maybe have 210whp or I can run 15lbs on a large turbo and blow the bottom end out of the car so psi really doesn't have anything to do with how much the motor can hold its how much horsepower the "stock" block can hold and like I said in my first post since the motor will be put in by me before I it in I want to build the bottom end so I don't have to fix problems later down the road that most stock bottom ends face. I want to build it right the first time to hold 250-300 whp being daily driven on daily driven days I will be running low conservative boost and on track days be running high boost thats why I want a built motor to handle the days I want to use it for its full potential...Hope this clears up so question THanks please give more feedback

dogg4217

Now this post helps out thanks for a good reply....was wondering if I could get a b16a2 for a decent price would this be the best choice out of the 3 choices of swaps...of course my first choice would be a gs-r but an si,crv,ls swap is also a choice for me....I know a b16a2 is built almost like a gs-r with the girdle and oil system would this be a good choice? Thanks for letting me know about block gaurds a guy at inlinepro in Springfield told me not to use this either....he told me he could build me a built motor for around $3500 with a core but I thought that was kind of steep since I have all the tools and resources to build a motor plus my grandfather has built motors before.

KYLE ROSE

a b16a2 would do just fine it would last a really long time on the boost/hp levels you want to get out of it you can easily reach 300 whp on moderately low boost on this motor. There is also a block on here (b16) that is already has aebs sleeves not used with the new sleeves i believe and is ready to go for 800 i think. That would save you time and money.

dogg4217

Who has this block and it has to be an obd2 since that is what my car is I don't want to run into problems hooking up a obd1 into my obd2 car

sk8rmike

I'd just go LS, tune it well, and boost it pretty hard.

KYLE ROSE

Ultra spikey has the bottom end it actually is a b16a2 but even it it wasnt you would nt have a probelm with hooking it up since it is only the bottom end and not the head. Good luck on your build