Another No-Start..
 

1991 Honda Accord JDM H22 swap
CEL's
#21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
#41 Primary oxygen sensor heater

Car was down for a period of about 3 weeks or so to re thread the driver-side mount holes. Ran fine before the down time, then about a week ago it needed a jump to start but ran fine again. Then it sat for about a week. Had to jump it yesterday but it wouldn't start and turned out the battery was bad.

Replaced the battery and it started but ran like complete shit wouldn't rev past 3 grand, and bogged down. Oil had gotten into the spark plug holes so i cleaned them out and replaced the plugs, the wires weren't damaged or swollen so i just cleaned them and re-installed.

Awhile ago i switched from the PT3 ECU to a Chipped P28 with a H22 basemap.. but i tried the PT3 and a virgin P13 to see if it made a difference and it did not. It's getting fuel (50Psi), The fuel pump is operating normal, it has a half tank of gas just put in today, getting spark and its trying so hard to start but it just won't...

I even reset the ECU, and checked all the fuses, and connections/grounds. :( only thing i haven't done yet is a compression test because i'm waiting for advance to open.

Re: Another No-Start..
 

the disributor is bad i have been a technician for 15 years senn it a couple of times if the spark isnt blue to white hot then it aint hot enough to run so if its orange or yellow replace the disributor

Re: Another No-Start..
 

Update:

New plugs, wires, cap and rotor done today.. car starts but runs rough as shit. Somehow the timing got off???.. Weird. @ TDC the "UP" arrows are about 45 degrees to the left. How could this have happened..Why would it have jumped timing?

Re: Another No-Start..
 

:rolleyes:

Re: Another No-Start..
 

baaaawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahah ahhahahahahaha
i feel so soryy for you but this shit is just soo funyyyyy.

did u check the plug wires if it was plugged in the same order?

Re: Another No-Start..
 

I get what you're implying but yes, to answer your question it is in the correct firing order.

Re: Another No-Start..
 

Update:

Corrected timing and removed balance shaft belt. It runs ALOT better, but now won't stay running and bogs down/backfires when you step on the gas hard (chipped P28 ECU). I unhooked the neg. terminal and pulled the HAZARD fuse, switched back to the PT3 ECU and it ran alot better almost perfect, still backfires when you step on the gas hard but no bogging. Then the CEL came on.. #41 Oxygen Sensor Heater, and it runs horrible again bogging down won't stay running... i've heard the oxygen sensor heater will cause your car to run bad when it fails.. any ideas? Im soo close.

Re: Another No-Start..
 

hey boss its to far retarded try advancing the distributor until the idel picks up double check your firing order is 1-3-4-2 clockwise with you standing at the passenger fender #1 should be in lower left corner #3 above it #4 to the right of that and #2 below 4 in lower right corner if all is good get a budy to let you try a distributor out of there car that runs good o2 sensors can mess with air fuel mix but wont cause a bacckfire is usually firing order or timing through the intake its retarded or abent/burned valve if its through the exhaust or spark knocking (pinging or sounds like a diesel) its to far advanced. also put the balance shaft belt back on will solve any vibration issues and not beat the motor to death at high rpms call if you need more my shop number is 4600159 my name is ed also make sure those marks are the right ones sometimes there are more than one mark on the gears plus take a good look at any idler pulleys/tensioer pulleys that have to do with the timing belt if one has a bad bearing the belt will lose tension and jump just so you know the h22 is a INTERFERANCE engine It is a valve bender SO BE CAREFULL make sure its right before trying to start it probably a good idea to do compression check remember the basics fuel /fire /compression thats what a engine has to have and if the timing is off all three may be acting up when you do a compression test record your readings and post them itl will be a big help

Re: Another No-Start..
 

Yes, if you have an O2 heater problem then you'll run badly, the oxygen sensor needs the heater to maintain the correct sensor element temp.

Backfiring is often a timing problem, but an O2 sensor failure can cause the same problems because the ECU will be getting bad information (from the O2 sensor) and will not be using the right fuel and ignition parameters. So yes, it can make it backfire and/or stumble.

You're not getting any more codes other than those two?

You might need a new O2 sensor or you may just have a wiring problem, and since it's a engine swap I'd look at the wiring first. Also look at the wiring for the VTEC solenoid, because that may explain the other CEL.

Unplug the connectors at the ECU, and unplug the connector on the O2 sensor, and and check continuity of the heater wire between the two plugs using a multimeter. All you're looking for is that the connection is roughly zero ohms, which means it's good. You can find an ECU pinout via Google if you need. Also check that the O2 sensor connector is getting 12V when the key is on (make sure the ECU is plugged in also).

The heater element gets 12V on one side, and the ECU switches the other side of the heater element to ground, completing the circuit. So you're checking that you have a good connection to the ECU, and that you have power to the O2 sensor. If both of those things check out OK, you may need a new O2 sensor or a new ECU, and O2 sensors fail much more often than ECU (unless something is wired wrong and has damaged the ECU).

With the way it runs on the P13 and the corrected timing, it sounds like run of the mill O2 sensor problems.

When you did whatever work on the car, did you remove the engine? The battery drain is slightly suspicious, and I'm still thinking there is a wiring problem somewhere.