SortaFlush

Backround on the car;

I originally got the car non-running from a local guy. It had a DOHC KA in it that I had no desire to even try and find out why it didn't run. I already had an SR20DET, I swapped the engine in and at the same time also did a mild tuck (just rerouted the fuseboxes out side of the engine bay and wiring through the frame rails all by extending the wires and properly soldering the connections) As well as I relocated that battery to the trunk securely.

The car hasn't been built like most people do, where you get to spend a lot of time driving the car, putting a modification on here, there and later. I have bought a shit ton of parts and have put it together as I have had the time, so the car and I don't have much history nor chemistry right now. The complete modifications list would be;


-Walbro 255lph fuel pump (It wines very loud as well, sometimes gets quiet, but no changes in how it runs)

-SR20DET red top (just installed the SOHC MAF on thinking that it may be my problem)

-Brand new Ignitor

-PBM High mount intercooler (have re-installed all clamps thinking possible boost leak)

-Aftermarket Boost controller (manual)

-Prosport gauges (oil/water temp and oil pressure) ***I did wire these all up on a power distribution box feeding off the ignition switch wire that gives a constant +12.

-Clutch upgrade

-3inch straight pipe exhaust with a gutted cat

-New NGK BK7re spark plugs

That's all the "important" things I can really think of right now.


The PROBLEM:

It seems after I removed the CAS to tap into my upper water neck for my water temp gauge, is when the problem started. The thing that is stumping me though, is I have redone the CAS install on it a million times and with a timing light on the second notch from the left on the crank pulley, it is at +15 degrees, so it leads me to believe it is correctly installed but I am not sure. I can't tell what RPM the problem is really happening at but I can guesstimate by sound, seems around 3500-4500 RPM in First gear it breaks up and bogs down bad, in second gear around 2000+ RPM it bogs down, breaks up backfires and stutters and same with any other gear, basically I have to try and keep the car out of boost for it to keep going. Now if I try and do WOT, it will just go BAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW and not go anywhere. It is really irritating me.


A couple of things I haven't checked that I think may be related:

Possibly robbing too much power from ignition from gauges?

Fuel pump grounds (might have inconsistent ground)?

Maybe ground issue elsewhere? Not sure where all important grounds are located?

Factory ECT sensor bad?

I HAVE had the car running great after the swap and slid it, did first-third gear pulls on 7 and 12 psi no problem. If you have any suggestions, please let me know what to check and I will do that.

blksylv

its not throwing any codes is it? is the plug to the cas cracked or anything, ive heard of the plug being cracked and the wires touching inside of it. have you tried another cas?

slingshot

My Z did something similar to this.
In my case it was a fried coil. I was dicking around with the PTU and when I put it back the harness laid against one of the pulleys. That stripped the insulation off of two of them, they shorted and blew up the #1 coil.

Fabrik8

Sounds like CAS timing, especially with the bogging and backfiring.

Chris28

Definitely sounds ignition related. I know you don't have plug wires, but when I first went ka-t one of my plug wires was grounding out on the valve cover and made the same symptoms you are describing. Only happened under heavy load, usually only in boost. Check everything from the CAS to the coil packs, it's possible you shorted something out inside a coil pack like Slingshot said.

SortaFlush

I never touched the coil packs or had a problem with them. I think it is CAS related.

RE-SPECGARAGE

ITS THE WALBORO!!!!! They are not suppose to whine. Take it out and look at your gas tank. I can bet you that its full of rust and the pump sock is clogged causing to whine and not send the proper amount of fuel to the inj.

you can pay pal me $70.....K thnkx

-Danny-

Hijacker

Proper timing is the second mark from the right, not from the left. It goes from left to right as: 5 ATDC, 0 (TDC), 5 BTDC, 10 BTDC, 15 BTDC, 20 BTDC.

Double check your spark plug gap too. Most people run around a .022" to .032" gap on their plugs.

SortaFlush

You were correct Danny, I need another fuel tank. Mine is complete shit. Trashed the fuel filter, fuel sock clogged to hell, its hitting fuel cut. I need another tank.

nftuatn

take that tank to a radiator shop and they can clean and coat the inside and it will be like new...h&h here in hampton charges like 60 bucks iirc