HEISENBERG

OK so I've been searching and I know there are TONS of threads that talk about the JDM ITR 5 lug conversion and the different ins and outs when it comes to the 36mm axles.

Now my problem is that I have that conversion with the 36mm axles that came with it but my GSR has ABS (obviously) and the ABS light is on.

I know King Motorsports sells the JDM 36mm axles but my question is;
Do they make the 36mm axles with ABS? I hate having that light on on my cluster and more importantly, I need it to pass inspection.

Any help/pointers would help.

Thanks

Here's the link to king motorsports.
http://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-309...l-0-axles.aspx



These have the abs gears but then again, it's just a photo.

Fabrik8

Sorry, what's the question?

So it sounds like you have 36mm axles but they don't have the ABS encoder rings on them? So you're wondering whether the axles that King sells have the ABS rings on them because your axles don't...?

Fabrik8

Ok, well the axles that King sells (Driveshaft Shop) have removable ABS rings. So IF those are the same axles you have, you might just be able to get the rings from The Driveshaft Shop. If they aren't the same axles you have, who knows.

Here's the axle that King sells (I verified the part numbers):

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import...c-axle-level-0

HEISENBERG

Perfect.
Do you know if they sell just the rings?

Fabrik8

I assume they probably would. Give them a call, they're right in Salisbury NC.

HEISENBERG

Sweet.
Thanks

HEISENBERG

Pulled the code for the ABS light that was on and it was the pass side sensor so I pulled it and cleaned. Still throwing the same code.
Also, I saw that the axles ARE ABS axles.

Fabrik8

Having a dirty sensor doesn't matter really, because the dirt doesn't interfere with the magnetic field that the sensor uses. Make sure that the sensor isn't too far away (the sensor bracket isn't bent, etc) and if it looks fine then it's most likely a sensor failure. You might be able to swap the sensor from the other side and see if the problem follows that sensor. Sometimes the cables are different lengths at different corners so it's not always practical or possible to do that.

Oh, also check that the encoder ring isn't cracked. I had a car with a cracked ring and the ring was expanding and smacking the sensor. The sensors aren't especially rugged under conditions like that.

HEISENBERG

Can I just test it with a multimeter first?
Where can I find out about how many ohms I should be looking at?

Fabrik8

If it's a hall effect sensor, you can't usually test them with a multimeter because they have active electronics inside. If it's a variable reluctance sensor, you can test it with a multimeter because it's basically a coil of wire and a pole piece.

Looking at this thread:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1584925

It appears that it's probably a variable reluctance sensor because that silver on the tip is the pole piece. Makes sense though, because VR sensors are very robust because of their simplicity. So you should be able to test it with a multimeter. I'm not sure why cleaning it is going to make it work better, unless the dirt and gunk is metallic or can somehow make a magnetic leakage path. Basically the sensor works by detecting when the ferrous teeth on the encoder ring interrupt the magnetic field at the end of the pole piece. The coil works like an electromagnet in reverse, it amplifies the detected magnetic interruption.