dustyb20

i have a 94 civic coupe with a b20vtec swap that i've had for 4 years now. last night during a storm my car suffered a little bit of interior water damage close to the driver door. this resulting water damage caused a nice little puff of smoke later on and fried the wires that run along the driver side carpeting under door, therefore i parked the car and decided to wait til today to mess around with it.

this am, i go outside and turn key, fuel pump primes normally, master relay clicks, go to start and nothing, dead... except the fuel pump is at a constant purge now until i release. try again, same... so i rewire ALL the wires running from the front panel which happens to be one of the plugs that comes directly out of your main relay, ALLLLLLLLL the way back to the next corresponding plug... MADE SURE not to cross anything, finish up about 3 hours later... try to crank and EXACT same thing.. no fire, no cranking, just fuel pump! no volt meter but checked over fuses and such with test light everything is good...


PLEASE HELP!!!!! this is my dd and currently my girlfriend's dd is having a swap installed due to faulty water pump

Rigginit

Try swapping out the relay itself. It sounds to be the cause of all of this. Find someone with one to just test real fast.

JustaGSR18

+1

dustyb20

eventhough i'm hearing the main relay engage and all other functions of car are operating? including the fuel pump kicking in... i'm just wondering, it could very well be the problem didn't think to try it since it seemed functional, but have one outside and will try thanks, any other ideas are welcome... hopefully this will be solution

Rigginit

Yeah just to be sure change it and try it if you haven't already. There's much more to that main relay than a standard SPDT. You may hear one of the functions working but it doesn't mean its completely good. These are known to have dry solder connections that are finicky even without chance of shorts from the water damage. Even opening the relay up and re-soldering the joints with fresh solder may take care of it if a borrowed relay fixes the problem.

dustyb20

ok... today... main relay out of my buddies car, nothing, still just fuel pump priming, back in his, runs fine... the wire assembly that burned up was the rear harness that connects into the fuse panel under dash... i replaced ALL the wires and connectors (which was a serious pain in the ass but didn't have a spare rear harness available). the harness has all your rear lights as well as the fuel pump controls... could i have fried my warlboro 255lph fuel pump?!? EVERYTHING in the car is functioning until you turn key and constant fuel prime and everything resets... i'm not hearing any type of clicking or anything to think a starter or a fuse/bad relay, and just checked over everything with test light again... any help

Rigginit

Unplug the pump and check the power at the harness to see if it starts and turns off as a normal pump would. Think that would be the best next step. If not its most likely not the pump. Ill look into a bit more and help where i can

JustaGSR18

first of you should not be using a test light to test fuses, it can show light with a partial blown fuse.. you need to be using a multi meter that will tell you the exact voltage on each side of the fuse to make sure they are the same, if you test a fuse and both sides are the same like 12.5v and 12.5v with up to a .1 difference between then the fuse is fine, but if you tse and say they are 12.5v and 7.2v then that is what is called a partial blown fuse.. with a partial blown fuse the test light will still light up but you have no way of knowing that there is a diffference in power..
but doesent sound like a fuse or pump issue to me..
does the check engine light come on for a second then turn off when you put the key to ignition position? if it does but pump continues to prime then you will have to recheck all of your rewiring.
but if the check engine light stays on the whole time then it could be the signal from the ecu that is telling the main relay to stay on.. in this case I would try plugging up another ecu and see what happens

dustyb20

i completely agree with you justaGSR except almost all of my tools were stolen about 4 months ago and hadn't picked one up yet due to having to put a swap in another car for family member and lack of funds and having to steadily piece by piece rebuild collection, but i may just borrow one from a buddy at the shop... i'm just REALLY thinking that's not the problem as well for a few reasons that i i don't think is worth writing down because we're kinda on the same page

the check engine light comes on with initial set to on position, fuel pump primes, main relay click, check engine off, turn key as normal, check engine stays on as fuel pump primes, but flickers like a constant resetting of all electrical systems as the engine WOULD turn over... no clicking or buzzing... i had a buddy drop me off a starter, possible it may be fried? i can try the ecu, but the problem with that is it's a higher comp b20vtec on a custom chip and it has me confused that everything else is working, but i have a p28 laying around somewhere

JustaGSR18

you dont necessarily need to start it with another ecu, just put to ignition position see if pump primes while cel is on then stops when cel turns off.. if it does then sounds like ecu issue..
now when the cel flickers is it rapid while cranking? this happened to me when I was swapping a motor before.. it was because when priming the motor I had the injector junction clip out( the clip where has wires going in but then none coming out.. just a junction block)... just a thought