endwell17

name-tim
location-richmond
problem-rear camber jam nut
car-2000 civic si


so yesterday i was switching out the stock brace for the skunk 2 rear camber kit. the driver side went ok, but the passenger side was more of a pain. after getting the bolt from the bushing i went to the two bolts to the body. one came out easy, but the other stripped the jam nut loose with it, and the bolt would just keep spinning. i had to cut the bolt out, and drop in down. Im wondering if anyone has ever see this or had this happen to them before. the only thing i can think of is to put a bigger bolt to the hole now, but if i do that ill need to drill a bigger hole through the camber kit (i would really like to avoid that)

any help will be appreciated

thanks, tim

JacKal

Description unclear dick stuck in jam nut.




But seriously I don't think I'm alone when I say I have only a slight understanding of what it is exactly you want to know. Maybe a picture to go along with a clear question of what it is you'd like to know. In my personal experience anything suspension related as far as blots go will give you hell. I usually soak them in penetrating oil the day prior to install. I would certainly advise against drilling a hole into anything until it becomes the last viable option. You may or may not run into issues down the road with alignment.

endwell17

thanks for the reply.
for the picture ill have to wait till the week so i can take the wheel back off, and take one. there are two bolts to the body of the car for the camber. one of those threads in the body have been completely torn loose with the bolt. allowing the bolt to just spin inside. after cutting the bolt the body is now left with just a hole, and no threads at all.

JacKal

Ah now I get what you're asking. You want to know how to fix destroying the threads in the body. Your best bet IMO would be to re thread the body. Or you could weld the hole and drill/tap the hole. Like I said before it may seem minor but I would avoid drilling out the camber. What material is it made of?

JacKal

And please don't tell me you're driving it around with one bolt holding it on...

endwell17

No the car is sitting, but it is my dd so I need to get it back on the road asap. I was wondering if maybe a threaded insert would work. I can't get pictures yet since I would have to drive the car to my work to take the wheel off, but I know pictures would make this a lot easier.

calisol

drill it out. re thread it. done. this happens all the time. lucky the one on the trailing arm wasn't seized up in the bushing. that happens to me more so than the frame side.

endwell17

Ha can't say that I was lucky. I had to put a torch to the bushing. It was a pain. I'm thinking a nut insert is the way to go. Ill have to see if autozone or napa has one the size I need. Someone had a couple of them but their 1.5 and not 1.25 for the bolt.

endwell17

Update. AutoZone, and Napa do not have anything that will work for me. they have a tap set with the thread inserts, but it will not work with this thin hole to the frame. I found some Rivet nut threaded inserts from Mcmaster-carr that i THINK will work. This is the first time i have had to use anything like this. Does anyone know if this would be the right direction to go in?

Calisol- your saying to drill it out? I am not sure if we both know what i am looking at (since i have no pictures to show you) but you said you have seen it many times. Are you talking about when the threads get destroyed, or like in my condition when the whole threads come loose with the bolt leaving just the frame?
OR ha, are you saying to drill a sized hole i want, put the inserts in then bolt it up?

Fabrik8

I'm not sure if I would trust a RivNut to withstand suspension loads, especially when inserted from the outside of the chassis. You would really have to know what the pullout loads are, and be confident that the RivNut and the installation procedure (quality/roundness of hole, deburring, etc.) can withstand those loads. Else the RivNut will loosen or pull out, either of which can overload the other bolt and cause a suspension failure.

You would likely be better off getting the stripped nut drilled out and Helicoiled.

I assume there isn't a way to access the back of the chassis where the stripped nut is?