New bike buying, negotiating prices
Mods, not sure if this should be in the bike buying 101 thread or not. If so you can merge it.
Here is some advice I found and has shown to be helpful in buying a new bike and working on getting your price.
Remember EVERYTHING is negotiable no price is set in stone.
If, or when, you decide to buy a new vehicle make sure you have everything in order BEFORE you go to a dealer. Then, when you've decided just what you want, make the dealers who sell the model you want bid for your business. It's simple, just walk into the dealer and tell them, "I want to buy a (insert make, model, color, and extras) within the next (# of days) and I'd like to know what your absolute best price is, as the best deal I can get will get my business.".
Whatever you do, don't agree to jump on a deal that's "only good right now". If they think it's a fair offer, have them put it in writing. If they balk at the suggestion, walk out the door, they're not worth dealing with.....
This is the way you do it:
- Go to cyclebuy.com, get the dealer invoice price for the bike you want. $15 will tell you what the dealer paid, what sort of kick-back they get from the manufacturer, and what the set-up cost should be. It'll have a number on there that is the total cost the dealer had to pay to put that bike in stock.
- Add 10% to the total dealer cost. This percentage is the negotiable amount--the dealer is going to try to mark it up more, you're going to try to mark it up less. I think that 10% is fair, but I would accept up to 15% on a bike I really wanted or 20% for a bike that was rare and I really wanted.
- Find out the tax rate for where you're going to buy the bike. Add in whatever percentage that is.
- Find out how much it costs to get the bike tagged and inspected in your area and any cost for a title transfer if there is one. Add in that amount.
- The total you have now is the out-the-door cost. It helps to calculate the out-the-door cost for different dealer profit percentages. Do it for 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20%. On a piece of paper, write down the following numbers:
1. Dealer invoice price (from the cyclebuy report)
2. Estimated setup cost/credit (from the cyclebuy report)
3. Dealer incentive and when it is paid (from the cyclebuy report)
4. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 5% markup
5. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 10% markup
6. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 15% markup
7. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 20% markup
Take the paper with you to the dealer. Use the numbers as your negotiating tool. When they come back with an out-the-door price, you can look at your paper and see about what percentage they're trying to mark the bike up. Tell them the markup percentage and that it's not acceptable to you, and come back with a counteroffer. If necessary, talk to the sales manager and show them your paper. They still want to make the sale, but they'll know they can't jerk you around. Also, if you're going to finance the bike through the dealer/manufacturer, shoot for a lower dealer markup. If you're paying cash, expect to pay a bit higher.
Hope this info helps.
Here is some advice I found and has shown to be helpful in buying a new bike and working on getting your price.
Remember EVERYTHING is negotiable no price is set in stone.
If, or when, you decide to buy a new vehicle make sure you have everything in order BEFORE you go to a dealer. Then, when you've decided just what you want, make the dealers who sell the model you want bid for your business. It's simple, just walk into the dealer and tell them, "I want to buy a (insert make, model, color, and extras) within the next (# of days) and I'd like to know what your absolute best price is, as the best deal I can get will get my business.".
Whatever you do, don't agree to jump on a deal that's "only good right now". If they think it's a fair offer, have them put it in writing. If they balk at the suggestion, walk out the door, they're not worth dealing with.....
This is the way you do it:
- Go to cyclebuy.com, get the dealer invoice price for the bike you want. $15 will tell you what the dealer paid, what sort of kick-back they get from the manufacturer, and what the set-up cost should be. It'll have a number on there that is the total cost the dealer had to pay to put that bike in stock.
- Add 10% to the total dealer cost. This percentage is the negotiable amount--the dealer is going to try to mark it up more, you're going to try to mark it up less. I think that 10% is fair, but I would accept up to 15% on a bike I really wanted or 20% for a bike that was rare and I really wanted.
- Find out the tax rate for where you're going to buy the bike. Add in whatever percentage that is.
- Find out how much it costs to get the bike tagged and inspected in your area and any cost for a title transfer if there is one. Add in that amount.
- The total you have now is the out-the-door cost. It helps to calculate the out-the-door cost for different dealer profit percentages. Do it for 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20%. On a piece of paper, write down the following numbers:
1. Dealer invoice price (from the cyclebuy report)
2. Estimated setup cost/credit (from the cyclebuy report)
3. Dealer incentive and when it is paid (from the cyclebuy report)
4. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 5% markup
5. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 10% markup
6. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 15% markup
7. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 20% markup
Take the paper with you to the dealer. Use the numbers as your negotiating tool. When they come back with an out-the-door price, you can look at your paper and see about what percentage they're trying to mark the bike up. Tell them the markup percentage and that it's not acceptable to you, and come back with a counteroffer. If necessary, talk to the sales manager and show them your paper. They still want to make the sale, but they'll know they can't jerk you around. Also, if you're going to finance the bike through the dealer/manufacturer, shoot for a lower dealer markup. If you're paying cash, expect to pay a bit higher.
Hope this info helps.
good info until the dealer basically tells you to piss off because they're selling at msrp or not at all. This might work in the winter though
I've done a lot more walking out the door than buying bikes due to the crap dealerships in that area. Buying new bikes there is a freakin'' joke.
I've done a lot more walking out the door than buying bikes due to the crap dealerships in that area. Buying new bikes there is a freakin'' joke.
good info until the dealer basically tells you to piss off because they're selling at msrp or not at all. This might work in the winter though
I've done a lot more walking out the door than buying bikes due to the crap dealerships in that area. Buying new bikes there is a freakin'' joke.
I've done a lot more walking out the door than buying bikes due to the crap dealerships in that area. Buying new bikes there is a freakin'' joke.
I am sure during peak season you may not get a great deal, but you never know until you try. Some dealers may want the business.
Last edited by Woodrow; Oct 29, 2008 at 08:35 AM.
I was always told it's gonna be cheaper leaving hampton roads and going down south into NC or whatever to buy a bike. Dealers around here are hard-asses about negotiating.
Well if you want to pay full price, I am sure you are ok with that.This may not work with all of them, but definitely worth it if you want your price. As for buying a new bike, I recently got my bike at a very good price. Infact I got it out the door at$100 over what the msrp was. They wanted the business and earned mine. I look forward to the service experience as well. Granted I have used them in the past for parts.
I am sure during peak season you may not get a great deal, but you never know until you try. Some dealers may want the business.
I am sure during peak season you may not get a great deal, but you never know until you try. Some dealers may want the business.
LOL @ paying full price
my comment was more on the absolute crap dealers in Virginia which are an absolute joke. Until you guys go somewhere else you don't know how truly bad it is and how good things can actually be. They are bottom of the barrel there and aren't worried about negotiating because there is more than enough stupid people that will come in and pay over msrp. None of them are volume dealers so they'd rather leave the bike on the floor for a couple of weeks and get more money for it then.
Out the door for right around msrp is about where people should be paying. Too many people there pay $1k over msrp or more for their bikes. I went to a "back to the desert" promotion over the weekend and all the bikes were at least $1k under msrp so that with tax title and tags they could have people OTD for at msrp or under. Even the scooters were $500 which was about 20% of their price
my comment was more on the absolute crap dealers in Virginia which are an absolute joke. Until you guys go somewhere else you don't know how truly bad it is and how good things can actually be. They are bottom of the barrel there and aren't worried about negotiating because there is more than enough stupid people that will come in and pay over msrp.
Out the door for right around msrp is about where people should be paying. Too many people there pay $1k over msrp or more for their bikes.
Last edited by Woodrow; Oct 30, 2008 at 03:40 AM.
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