drilling threw carbon fiber
Use masking tape, it will help keep the surface from splintering, and also makes a good place to mark your hole locations. It will keep the bit from walking too.
If the carbon is one layer thick and there is lots of gelcoat, and most of your hood is fiberglass, a regular drill bit is fine IF the hole is small. Pretty much all hoods on the market are mostly fiberglass, and have a lot of gel coat on the top, so this works fine. If you're into getting the best results possible, or you're drilling a thin piece, a dremel tool or die grinder with a high speed steel burr is much cleaner and better. Drill bits have the wrong angle for drilling carbon, and people that drill carbon a lot have a much higher angle on the cutting lips. This is the same for many plastics also, the lip angle that works best for metals is the worst for brittle plastics that can chip or splinter.
Uni-bits work OK because of the way they cut, but they suck and cat really walk around a lot while you're drilling. Uni-bits should never be used if you want a hole drilled where it's supposed to be.
If the carbon is one layer thick and there is lots of gelcoat, and most of your hood is fiberglass, a regular drill bit is fine IF the hole is small. Pretty much all hoods on the market are mostly fiberglass, and have a lot of gel coat on the top, so this works fine. If you're into getting the best results possible, or you're drilling a thin piece, a dremel tool or die grinder with a high speed steel burr is much cleaner and better. Drill bits have the wrong angle for drilling carbon, and people that drill carbon a lot have a much higher angle on the cutting lips. This is the same for many plastics also, the lip angle that works best for metals is the worst for brittle plastics that can chip or splinter.
Uni-bits work OK because of the way they cut, but they suck and cat really walk around a lot while you're drilling. Uni-bits should never be used if you want a hole drilled where it's supposed to be.
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