Alignment shops for lowered cars?
I will do 1 of 2 things to get a low car on our current rack:
1. lay down 2x10 boards to allow for a lower incline or,
2. take the bumper off.
Other rack was taken down because we care currently having a alignment pit put in, so you just drive into the shop and voila its on the rack.
1. lay down 2x10 boards to allow for a lower incline or,
2. take the bumper off.
Other rack was taken down because we care currently having a alignment pit put in, so you just drive into the shop and voila its on the rack.
Take a measureing tape and measure from the center of both tires on the front and back of the tire.
If the difference is within 1/32" - 1-16" or for quick purposes 1/8" you are fine. Also before you make any toe adjustment you have to make sure the steering wheel is centered.
I cant stand it when people do that. If you dont trust the guy working on your car then do the work your damn self.
Nothing irritates me more than some jack nuts standing over my shoulder.
Unless he invites you come into the shop area keep your ass in the lobby and watch the free satalitte tv.
Heres the deal though. Bring it to me @ Kings Tire in Pulaski and Ill align it to whatever spec you want. However if its custom specs I cant warranty the work (shop policy). But if its standard specs its fully warrantied.
Plus its only $34 -> 2 wheel & $49 -> 4 wheel alignment.
Nothing irritates me more than some jack nuts standing over my shoulder.

Unless he invites you come into the shop area keep your ass in the lobby and watch the free satalitte tv.
Heres the deal though. Bring it to me @ Kings Tire in Pulaski and Ill align it to whatever spec you want. However if its custom specs I cant warranty the work (shop policy). But if its standard specs its fully warrantied.
Plus its only $34 -> 2 wheel & $49 -> 4 wheel alignment.
Here's a before & after print out of a lowered 05 STI we did not tolng a go.
It was way out after being droped,but was no problem geting it back in spec's.





Front Camber plates made it even easyer to bring back into spec's.
Installed camber bolts in the rear to make that adjustment.
It was way out after being droped,but was no problem geting it back in spec's.





Front Camber plates made it even easyer to bring back into spec's.
Installed camber bolts in the rear to make that adjustment.
1.5 degrees to us isnt much and your right its not really going to give much wear, short term anyways.
Besides anything over -0.5 to -1.0 degree of rear camber is pointless on the street. Same for the front too.
Why you are running 2+ degrees is beyond me unless your trying to gain some additional clearance because your car is really really low, or you dont have the parts to make that adjustment.
Toe is the leading reason for wear, Im we all know that much. Camber and caster will cause wear also just not nearly as fast.
1.5 degrees to us isnt much and your right its not really going to give much wear, short term anyways.
Besides anything over -0.5 to -1.0 degree of rear camber is pointless on the street. Same for the front too.
Why you are running 2+ degrees is beyond me unless your trying to gain some additional clearance because your car is really really low, or you dont have the parts to make that adjustment.
Toe is the leading reason for wear, Im we all know that much. Camber and caster will cause wear also just not nearly as fast.
Besides anything over -0.5 to -1.0 degree of rear camber is pointless on the street. Same for the front too.
Why you are running 2+ degrees is beyond me unless your trying to gain some additional clearance because your car is really really low, or you dont have the parts to make that adjustment.
Toe is the leading reason for wear, Im we all know that much. Camber and caster will cause wear also just not nearly as fast.

my last set of tires had a 320 treadwear rating,and they've got 25k street miles on them so far.they're gradually worn less than 1/32" more on the inside edge,smoothly from the outside edge.i'd say they have 5k more miles left on them.i'm happy with that.
Chris





