my new to me 98 XJ hitting the rocks
#25
Re: my new to me 98 XJ hitting the rocks
Dont go with AALs, they are a BAND-AID to an already aggravated problem. Fuking XJ leaf packs are soft as shit, and any added weight in the back like when you haul shit or tow something is going to bottom them out in short order. Throwing on AALs will even advance the warp progress faster most of the time because of the added stress the packs put on trying to correct itself.
Do yourself a huge favor. Spend your money the right way and get replacement leaf packs like Black Diamond or OME (Old Man Emu, preferrably). For the cheapest route, you can hike yourself up to a junkyard and look for S-10 leaf packs, Chevy Blazer packs, or Cherokee "Up-Country" packs (will be badged on the side of the Jeep..). Removing the axle does make it easier to install your packs/AALs but not entirely NECESSARY. Disconecting the brake lines and supporting the axle on stands and a roller jack however IS. Ive swapped out leaf packs and installed AALs simply by supporting the axle at the diff, removed the rear shackles, dropped the axle down, clamped the packs, removed the u-bolts holding them to the axle, and done everything in reverse order without ever disco-ing the driveshaft.
Also, for added support, you need to look into longer u-bolts (comes in a suspension kit), bumpstops, bumpstop plates, and rear shocks (should replace ALL shocks at once). Going longer in back youll need longer, stronger coils in the front. Dont skimp out by buying pucks or lift blocks, but do look into buying reinforced longer shackles (NOT REVOLVER SHACKLES!!!).
All this is why buying an actual kit is more preferred than one or two different things because they all work in concert with one another.
Keeping your heep at or under 3.5" means you wont have to install an SYE, which can be a royal pain if you dont know what youre doing. Dropping the t-case to make it fit doesnt always work either, but the best way to handle any driveline vibes with your added lift is with a custom driveshaft from Tom Woods. A longarm kit is just about the best setup you can run and not as expensive as you might think, but do NOT GO WITH RUSTYS SUSPENSION SHIT. They are as bad as ShittyBilt.
Do yourself a huge favor. Spend your money the right way and get replacement leaf packs like Black Diamond or OME (Old Man Emu, preferrably). For the cheapest route, you can hike yourself up to a junkyard and look for S-10 leaf packs, Chevy Blazer packs, or Cherokee "Up-Country" packs (will be badged on the side of the Jeep..). Removing the axle does make it easier to install your packs/AALs but not entirely NECESSARY. Disconecting the brake lines and supporting the axle on stands and a roller jack however IS. Ive swapped out leaf packs and installed AALs simply by supporting the axle at the diff, removed the rear shackles, dropped the axle down, clamped the packs, removed the u-bolts holding them to the axle, and done everything in reverse order without ever disco-ing the driveshaft.
Also, for added support, you need to look into longer u-bolts (comes in a suspension kit), bumpstops, bumpstop plates, and rear shocks (should replace ALL shocks at once). Going longer in back youll need longer, stronger coils in the front. Dont skimp out by buying pucks or lift blocks, but do look into buying reinforced longer shackles (NOT REVOLVER SHACKLES!!!).
All this is why buying an actual kit is more preferred than one or two different things because they all work in concert with one another.
Keeping your heep at or under 3.5" means you wont have to install an SYE, which can be a royal pain if you dont know what youre doing. Dropping the t-case to make it fit doesnt always work either, but the best way to handle any driveline vibes with your added lift is with a custom driveshaft from Tom Woods. A longarm kit is just about the best setup you can run and not as expensive as you might think, but do NOT GO WITH RUSTYS SUSPENSION SHIT. They are as bad as ShittyBilt.
Last edited by White Devil; 09-14-2010 at 03:34 AM.
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