Cycle whore thread
I read reviews that said those work great, but sometimes don't last quite as long as regular ones. I bought an Yuasa from Amazon for $60 and free shipping.
I'm just hoping I didn't fry the stator, regulator, or ECU.
I'm just hoping I didn't fry the stator, regulator, or ECU.
Invest in a good small battery charger. Motorcycle/ATV batteries don't require much amperage (I think mine is 1.5, don't quote me on that I'll check later.)
When we sell new units at work we fill the battery, let it vent for a half hour or so, then cap it and charge on the wee little baby charger.
I don't think you would have hurt anything other than the battery.
When we sell new units at work we fill the battery, let it vent for a half hour or so, then cap it and charge on the wee little baby charger.
I don't think you would have hurt anything other than the battery.
Thanks.
I have a Battery Tender Plus, their website said I should charge the battery and let it float on charge for 48 hours.
They also said a Battery Tender Jr should not be used for the initial charge as battery life will be reduced.
I have a Battery Tender Plus, their website said I should charge the battery and let it float on charge for 48 hours.
They also said a Battery Tender Jr should not be used for the initial charge as battery life will be reduced.
How long did you sit with them hooked up?
I feel that the battery may have had an internal issue after being drained that caused it to pop. If it was a lead acid I could have just shorted some of the trace lead in the bottom between the plates and the shock from the jump made it permanent.
You will probably be fine my man the battery in the car/truck that you were using should have filtered out most of the noise the alternator was generating and I guarantee you that the s.c. current (cca) of the battery is far greater that the f.l.a. of the alternator.
I feel that the battery may have had an internal issue after being drained that caused it to pop. If it was a lead acid I could have just shorted some of the trace lead in the bottom between the plates and the shock from the jump made it permanent.
You will probably be fine my man the battery in the car/truck that you were using should have filtered out most of the noise the alternator was generating and I guarantee you that the s.c. current (cca) of the battery is far greater that the f.l.a. of the alternator.
Last edited by monopolizedinc; Aug 27, 2013 at 09:31 AM.
my bad man typing quick.
short circuit current or cold cranking amps (don't know why my dumb ass put "ss") most 4 cylinder car batteries are about 500 amps and up (not inc honda)
fla (full load amps) or output under full load; most automotive alternators make from 50-130amps
bike batteries are about 175-200+ cca
short circuit current or cold cranking amps (don't know why my dumb ass put "ss") most 4 cylinder car batteries are about 500 amps and up (not inc honda)
fla (full load amps) or output under full load; most automotive alternators make from 50-130amps
bike batteries are about 175-200+ cca
^Saw that in the Icon book.






