pasty

The constant influx of questions from potential riders has inspired me to compose a short guide for beginners. I am by no means an expert; in fact, I am still a beginner, but when it comes to riding in general, my four years of riding on the street and the collective knowledge I've obtained from countless hours of reading have given me enough insight to create a guide like this.

This is a constant work in progress and is meant to help people as well as keep me busy during exams.


INDEX
I. Licensure Information
II. Buying a Bike
III. Gear
IV. Riding Tips - Constantly Adding


I. Licensure information

Before even thinking about hopping on a motorcycle you, the beginner rider, should be thinking about obtaining a legal license to operate it. There are two simple ways that this can be done: a license can be obtained by taking the DMV skills test or by taking an approved Motorcycle Safety Foundation course. A good reference on how to do this is Buttercup's thread.

https://www.vadriven.com/forums/cycle-corner-41/license-permit-info-virginia-101468/

Although the license can be obtained through the DMV skills test I can't stress enough that EVERYONE should take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Basic Rider Course. After taking this course not only will you be given the tools to be safe on the street, but you will also be given a card that will cut down insurance costs and allow you to get your license without taking that pesky DMV skills test (not to mention that it is fun because it will give you, the beginner rider, a taste of what you're in store for).

Here is a link to the DMV Motorcycle info and to the MSF page.

DMV Motorcycle Page:

http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/ci...motorcycle.asp

MSF:

http://www.msf-usa.org/

II. Buying a Bike

After obtaining your license it is time to start looking at a bike, as well as insurance. I will leave the insurance shopping to you, but just keep in mind, insurance on a motorcycle is essential and the most comprehensive insurance coverage should be sought (especially for the beginner rider). Usually the higher the engine displacement of the bike, the higher the insurance costs.

A good bike for a beginner is one that is typically used, inspires confidence, is forgiving if a mistake is made, is of a lower engine displacement, and is low-maintenance, but there is much more to buying a bike than say a car, so if you want to go the used route I highly suggest that you read Skr00zloose's thread on buying a bike. That can be found here:

Bike Buying 101
https://www.vadriven.com/forums/cycle-corner-41/bike-buying-101-a-182477/

Here is a SHORT list of bikes based on engine displacement under 500cc that would be more than enough for any beginner to start on. A beginner should start on the smallest possible bike that they feel comfortable on. The United States is one of the few countries that doesn't use a tier licensing system where beginners are FORCED to start on a smaller bike, and there is a reason other countries (even Japan) do it that way. What is that reason? The reason is that most people are more confident on a smaller bike and learn a lot quicker.

I'm not saying that a beginner can't start on a larger bike (600cc and up), but it is usually safer for the rider and the public, as well as cheaper to start small and work their way up. Attached are also some youtube videos of said bikes.

Honda CRF230M

Hyosung GT250/GT250R

[youtube]WkqDzeCVkX0[/youtube]

[/b]Kawasaki Ninja 250EX/250R[/b] (You should watch all of Mordeth's videos, they are great!)

[youtube]GxMWbD-GdXw[/youtube]

Yamaha WR250X/R

[youtube]gjVv5h059vc[/youtube]

Suzuki DRZ400S/SM

[youtube]DA3Mb_k1A3A[/youtube]

Suzuki GS500F

[youtube]SvGJ8Iz7E44[/youtube]

Kawasaki Ninja 500R

[youtube]cKOPGQTAfGs[/youtube]

There are many more possibilities in terms of motorcycles than this, but this is just a general synopsis as to some of the more popular bikes out there at the moment. Here are several manufacturers of bikes for the inquiring beginner rider to familiarize themselves with. With a little bit of searching you can find the right bike based on your personal needs and preferences.

Yamaha
Suzuki
Honda
Kawasaki
Hyosung
Triumph

More great information from Woodrow.

III. Gear

One of the most overlooked areas of riding is quality safety gear. For some reason people skimp out on this even though it is the difference between walking away unscathed or needing extensive skin graphs and surgeries. Here is a good thread by Del Sol that with many gear related resources.

https://www.vadriven.com/forums/cycle-corner-41/gear-101-helmets-jackets-gloves-boots-etc-46265/

I also want to add that riding is a skill, and to develop a skill requires practice, and to help in the development of a skill there are aides that can be used. A few books that are worth mentioning are:

A Twist of The Wrist

A Twist of The Wrist 2

Proficient Motorcycling

Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation Guide

I. Riding Tips - Updating when time allows

-Don't Ride beyond your ability, let your skill level dictate how you ride, not your friends or riding buddies.

-The Handlebars are for controlling the bike, the knees are for gripping the bike. Staying too tense in the arms will almost always result in choppy, unsafe maneuvers.

-Be mindful as to whether or not the tires are cold.

-You are invisible on the road, not only do you need to be mindful of yourself, but you need to be mindful of everyone else as well.

-It's best to avoid situations where fast braking and swerving are needed, but those two skills should be developed in a parking lot along with low speed maneuvering on smooth operation of the clutch. To avoid situations that require fast swerving and braking in the real world look and think ahead.

-Make sure the bike is fitted so it is comfortable. It's hard to focus on riding when you are forced to focus on an uncomfortable riding position.

For a comprehensive website with plenty of tips visit the Motorcycle Safety Group site (Not to be confused with MSF).

http://www.msgroup.org/











I've got finals to study for, but shoot me ideas on what I should add.

sprayedcivic

good thread + rep 4 u when i can i would touch on the facy of not riding beyond ur ability and or riding with people who are going to push you to do things you are not ready for (if ur a newb u dont want to be riding with people that are running 80+ up n down the interstate and out trying to drag knee and street race)

tires are important as well when learning older harder tires are less forgiving then softer performance tires

Woodrow

Here is a good guide when buying a used bike
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

New bike buying- negotiating a price
Here is some advice I found and has shown to be helpful in buying a new bike and working on getting your price.

Remember EVERYTHING is negotiable no price is set in stone.

If, or when, you decide to buy a new vehicle make sure you have everything in order BEFORE you go to a dealer. Then, when you've decided just what you want, make the dealers who sell the model you want bid for your business. It's simple, just walk into the dealer and tell them, "I want to buy a (insert make, model, color, and extras) within the next (# of days) and I'd like to know what your absolute best price is, as the best deal I can get will get my business.".

Whatever you do, don't agree to jump on a deal that's "only good right now". If they think it's a fair offer, have them put it in writing. If they balk at the suggestion, walk out the door, they're not worth dealing with.....

This is the way you do it:

- Go to cyclebuy.com, get the dealer invoice price for the bike you want. $15 will tell you what the dealer paid, what sort of kick-back they get from the manufacturer, and what the set-up cost should be. It'll have a number on there that is the total cost the dealer had to pay to put that bike in stock.

- Add 10% to the total dealer cost. This percentage is the negotiable amount--the dealer is going to try to mark it up more, you're going to try to mark it up less. I think that 10% is fair, but I would accept up to 15% on a bike I really wanted or 20% for a bike that was rare and I really wanted.

- Find out the tax rate for where you're going to buy the bike. Add in whatever percentage that is.

- Find out how much it costs to get the bike tagged and inspected in your area and any cost for a title transfer if there is one. Add in that amount.

- The total you have now is the out-the-door cost. It helps to calculate the out-the-door cost for different dealer profit percentages. Do it for 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20%. On a piece of paper, write down the following numbers:

1. Dealer invoice price (from the cyclebuy report)
2. Estimated setup cost/credit (from the cyclebuy report)
3. Dealer incentive and when it is paid (from the cyclebuy report)
4. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 5% markup
5. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 10% markup
6. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 15% markup
7. Out-the-door price, $ amount dealer will make, and taxes for 20% markup

Take the paper with you to the dealer. Use the numbers as your negotiating tool. When they come back with an out-the-door price, you can look at your paper and see about what percentage they're trying to mark the bike up. Tell them the markup percentage and that it's not acceptable to you, and come back with a counteroffer. If necessary, talk to the sales manager and show them your paper. They still want to make the sale, but they'll know they can't jerk you around. Also, if you're going to finance the bike through the dealer/manufacturer, shoot for a lower dealer markup. If you're paying cash, expect to pay a bit higher.

Rider resume
This might make you think twice about what advice you take and who to take it from
https://www.vadriven.com/forums/show...der+experience

Looking for a beginner bike?
Here is a good article I found regarding beginner bikes, pro's/con's

http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/new...o-further.html

Want a 600 for your first bike?
Another good article I found

So, if you're bent on an SS, think long and hard about WHY you want one so bad and see if your "reason" is down below. I bet it will be.

"A Bike Dealer/Friend/Relative/Guy with Bike told me that 600's are good starter bikes."
Its a common fact that people instictively try to find others with interests that follow their own. Its also interesting to point out that if a person makes a knowingly poor choice, he/she is likely to try and validate that poor choice by convincing others that it was an "OK" thing to do because "they did it." I also don't think it comes as a shock that dealers get a higher commision from selling a $9000 bike vs a $3000 bike.

I love the looks of (insert SS here)
Who doesn't? But if you are seriously ready to knowingly make an unsafe decision for the sake of buying a "cool bike", it speaks volumes about your priorities as a person. Its also not a stretch to predict that a person who buys a bike just so they can "look cool" on it, will inevitably crash because they were more pre-occupied with "looking cool" on it than watching where they are going. "Hey! She's checking me out!!! I really look.....(splat)"

"I'm a responsible/safe person and I will respect the power of the bike.
Um, no, you aren't and no, you won't. Styling aside, people don't buy a more powerful bike with the intent of going slow. If going slow was the intent, a 250/500/cruiser would fit the bill just fine. People buy an SS because they want to go fast. You're not responsible or safe because your actions (decision to buy an SS) is neither responsible OR safe. Also, why on Earth would you "respect" the power of an SS when you're buying it based ON its power? This excuse embodies the, "Peoples' actions show who they are, peoples' words dictate who they want others to THINK they are." philosophy.

I have dirt riding experience so I'm not a new rider
On the street? Yes you are. End of discussion.

I can learn just as well on a 600 as a smaller bike because I'm special.
Well, you may be "special". You may be able to hop on that bike and ride it like Nicky Hayden stole it after 1 month. BUT, the odds of that are about the same as the odds of Kate Beckinsale showing up naked at my doorstep with a bowl of whipped cream. Possible, sure... but not likely. And hating people that quote statistics doesn't make them less true.

I'm a REAL big guy so I need a big bike.
Real question here is height, not wieght. Unless you're in excess of 300lbs, its not that big of a deal when starting out. Now if you're over 6'2", comfort could be an issue. But there are cruiser bikes that you could learn on that would fit you better until you're ready to move up to the SS. There are always alternatives.

"250/500's are just not powerful enough" or "I'll get bored with it in a year"
A Ninja 250 with a 170lbs rider and full tank of gas will run a 14 flat 1/4 mile and has a sub-6 0-60 and a top speed of 120mph. 500's are even faster. If you you are buying a motorcycle with the sole interest of going faster than that, you shouldn't be on a motorcycle at all. Also, ask any EXPERIENCED rider, (read; years experience) how long it took them to be considered a "Good" rider. The answer is more than a year nearly every time. That first year is crucial to developing your skills, not seeing how hard you can ride.

Since I don't work for Kawasaki and don't have anything to gain other than a marginally safer riding environment from encouraging riders to start small. You could say that I am a "Start Small Nazi" on this board. I wear that label proudly (with the exception of the Nazi part, I prefer advocate) since by saying that about me, and others around here, you're saying....

1. We're able to set aside our vanity for a while in the interest of becoming a better rider.
2. Our desire to go fast doesn't trump our survival instinct.
3. Technique is more important than image.
4. There's another person I'll be able to smoke on track day when I upgrade to an SS if not now.

Ultimately, there's nothing that I, or anyone else on SBN can say to stop someone that's made up their mind to do something stupid. But, IMHO, if one person does the right thing this season and lives longer because of it, its worth it.

Informative thread regarding respect and a bike
http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/new...=R-E-S-P-E-C-T

Gear

This is always a debatable subject and I always see riders not wearing gear or those who defend not wearing it. I have also known a few who were humbled when they went down and now wear it and some who wore it when they went down and had minimal injuries. Gear will protect you . Dress for the slide, not the ride and be comfortable in what you are wearing.

Gloves: Necessary, must be leather with the knuckles reinforced with armor of some sort.

Helmet: You need one that is either DOT or Snell rated. You do NOT need to spend $400, but you do need one that is new. Get a Scorpion, Bell or HJC if you want a decent helmet at a great price.

Boots: They have to be over the ankle to allow the best protection. It is best to get boots designed for motorcyclists. A* and Sidi make very good boots, but check out some of the others too.

Jackets: Must have spine, elbow, shoulder armor....you can go either leather (best) or textile (a close second), depending on your budget. There is also Mesh, which is the least preferred being it doesn't offer the protection the other two have.

Pants: Jeans are a BARE MINIMUM, but you really should invest in decent riding pants. Riding jeans or riding pants with knee pads are the next step up. of course Leathers are the best, but with that comes cost, but you can find decent sales.

pasty

Wish I could rep you again, adding this to the main post.

j4k3

There is already threads for the first 3...

pasty

Yes, but there are many more resources that can be compiled, and condensing it all into one thread makes it easier to sift through, especially in an indexed fashion.

MA-HALF-E

I sell insurance for a living:

The thing I see the most, and sometimes feel bad about is a rider has just got his/her first bike, or has just upgraded to something bigger and with more performance aspects and they call to get it insured and the rate is almost as much as the bike is.
Everyone's insurance is going to be different, and your buddy's may be more than yours, and vice versa. Do not get stuck with a motorcycle that you cannot afford to insure. Call around to as many companies as needed to get a rate that you can live with.
Also, the majority of companies out there will base their rate solely on the CC size. That's to say a 250 rebel and a 250 ninja will be rated the same; however, a lot of companies are adding performance aspect into the equation, so a 250 Rebel will be cheaper than a 250 Ninja. Obviously the year and price of the motorcycle will come into play, as will your driving record. Do not let insure keep you from riding, you may need to rely on XYZ insurance company to get insured, but if you want to ride, there is a way.

fish

Awesome, thanks guys.

pasty

Added some vids from youtube to the bike section so people can get a feel for what the "smaller" bikes are capable of.