JDM180SX

Most of you know the car and all the changes its been through. After the Super Street feature i stripped car down and sold alot of parts i was sick of or just bad choices. My goal is too make this a more reliable DD...instead of a weekend joyride.

Check the photos below in link of last setup...i did enjoy car in this stage...no regrets.

http://andyqbui.com/2nr/jared_180.html

i started off by selling spoiler/ front fiberglass bumper/ wheels/ z32/z33 brake kit/ interior pieces/ intercooler setup/ cut off front fiberglass fenders etc.
then i started buying new parts.


i decided to do full 180sx front end with new metal fenders/ dmax tails & BMW M3 lip spoiler ( clean & simple )
picked up some mint 180sx sidemarkers and all new parts too make bumper fit like it did from factory.

- i mocked a few things up...picked up a Modiride C/F lip from a fellow NICO member. its actually very thick, but im coating the inside with industrial strength epoxy resin to make stronger and i will be spraying this a satin black.

- prob pick up a Origin roof spoiler too

-I have all the parts needed for my new front end change. i will install this puzzle when ive finished up everything else.

FRONT END COMPONENTS/ EXTERIOR

part # for those interested without searching:

62022-60F25 BUMPER SET FR ( 180SX FR BUMPER )

62292-60F00
62293-60F00 RETAINERS

B6135-60F00
B6130-60F00 LAMP ASSY FR-TU

62025-60F05 BUMPER FR LH
62024-60F05 BUMPER FR RH

26590-40F00 LAMP ASSY-STOP ( 3rd brake light )
62890-51F00 EMBLEM RAD GRILL










i still have 16x8 -10 starion wheels on car. my buddy came by and polished them all up and i have some better rubber on all of them now. wheels are temporary depending on my budget. i may end up keeping these.




BODY & EXTERIOR REAR PARTS



- rust coated rear garnish and used some new/bigger rubber sealing washers along with 100% silicone sealant.

- bought all new led bulbs for every lighting component on car.

- remember: keep lamp sockets for DMAX tails or knockoffs. i went to junkyard and scored these and sold a few other sets too. i bought a new lock cylinder from NISSAN OF CHESAPEAKE and they rekeyed it to my new ignition cylinder.








new DMAX tails
new rear 180sx garnish 26540-47F00
new lock cylinder w/keys 90600-15f29
new LAMP ASSY-STOP 26590-40F00




plugged old spoiler holes for now till this winter when i get car resprayed
got a BMW M3 urethane lip spoiler...something simple and low key.



led bulbs are way brighter than what pic shows...still need to get license plate bulbs.

JDM180SX

FRONT SUSPENSION & BRAKE SETUP

- prepped front wheel section for herculiner coating. TREATED all the rusty areas with rust reformer...just light surface rust.

- i also removed the harness on this side...driver side poses a challenge...prob just maneuver it out of the way

- picked up some VHT epoxy spray too coat swaybar/ swaybar brackets and fender stays. i had all this sandblasted earlier this year and coated it with 3 coats of rustoleum auto primer and 4 coats of satin VHT. parts are solid and look brand new.

- i ordered some new bolts from Nissan and got these new swaybar endlinks on ebay for 40.00 shipped...steal! this officially completes all front suspension area... everything else is NEW.

- finished all the sanding and prep work on inside front fenders and lower rad support and under headlight supports...light surface rust and nasty bolts that needed replacing. i herculined the wheel wells and sprayed rust reformer everywhere else.
- also the metal bracket which holds the brake line on fenderwall collects lots of grit behind it. i suggest to pull this off and clean. mine had some more light surface rust which i prepped. i then sandblasted bracket/ painted w/ S/S spray paint then finished it off with some stainless bolts.

- other bolts which hold the swaybar and brackets were run through wire wheel on grinder then sprayed with multiple coats of wheel clear for protection.









for those that have not done the steering column bushing...pay attention.
you need to make alignment marks on shaft to mate back up the correct way.
the flat end of spline needs to be perpendicular where bolt goes through clamp or bolt will not go through.
doesnt hurt to hit the crusty bolts with wire wheel and lube up the splines as well w/ wd40.
i also had to retap the threaded nuts welded on to clamp, because 20yrs of being seized/rust!





FRONT END COMPONENTS COMPLETE & INSTALLED:

FORTUNE-AUTO COILOVERS
SECCHI TENSION RODS
NISMO POWER BRACE
NEW FLCA
NEW OEM TIE RODS
NEW SWAY BAR ENDLINKS
ENERGY SUSPENSION RACK & PINION BUSHINGS
ENERGY SUSPENSION SWAY BAR D-LINKS
NAGISSA FENDER BRACES
CIRCUIT SPORTS STRUT BRACE
TOUGE FACTORY STEERING RACK BUSHING

Agency Power S/S brake lines
AGENCY POWER 5 LUG HUBS
slotted/cross drilled vented rotors
remanned fully loaded calipers from ROCK AUTO ( best price on the web )
all new bolts & nuts from NISSAN
GRD8 7/16 bolts for coilover mounts


EXHAUST MODS & PARTS:

CIRCUIT SPORTS DOWNPIPE & ELBOW
CIRCUIT SPORTS URETHANE EXHAUST HANGERS
FR SPORT COPPER NUTS & GASKETS
WEDSPORT MUFFLER GROUND
SARD TCV
APEXI N1 Titanium Gold muffler
CUSTOM 3" EXHAUST

finally got my Circuit Sports SR ELBOW & DOWNPIPE INSTALLED. i waited 2 months for them to get back in stock. got the SARD TCV reinstalled along with my WEDSPORT muffler ground. i mounted that to transmission mount out of the way...before it hung a little so it had animal air and dried up blood when i skimmed over a few roadkill

of course my new downpipe is 6" shorter than the fabbed up one i had...so rear section doesnt mate up too SARD unit...FML! when i get car back on road ill drive a block to a garage...see if they can weld a section in.

one great thing about new downpipe is that it hugs the floor pan better and not as low as my other setup.









The Weds Muffler Earthing Grounding System 40cm is a universal 'Earthing/Grounding System' for just about any vehicle looking for a smoother and more efficient muffler.

The kit comes with 40cm of high quality grounding line.

With proper grounding, improved idle, response, low-mid torque and acceleration can be achieved by enhancing the performance of electronics.

Here is what Weds has to say about their product:

What is Muffler Grounding?
-Static electricity is led away from the muffler.
-The internal resistance in the muffler is decreased.
-Rust prevention. Due to the removal of static electricity.
-The accelerator response improves.
-A low-speed torque improves.
-The audio noise is decreased.




OLDER PICS, but thats what it looks like installed

JDM180SX

DRIVETRAIN MODS & INSTALL:

TRANS:

- AGENCY POWER S/S BRAIDED CLUTCH LINE
- NISMO SLAVE CYLINDER
- NISMO TRANS MOUNT
- CUSCO BRASS SHIFTER BUSHING
- REDLINE GEAR OIL
- COMPETITION CLUTCH STAGE 2
- RESURFACED OEM FLYWHEEL
- DRIVESHAFT SHOP 1PC STEEL




INFINITI J30 DIFF:

- STANCE ALUMINUM BUSHINGS
- all new parts from Nissan:
- diff gasket: 38320-40F02
- diff cover bolts: 38321-U300A
- bolt-differential: 55424-33P00 ( longer bolts needed to hold diff to subframe )
- breather: 38322-P6400

http://www.ballerbolts.com
http://ballerbolts.com/240sx-fastener-kits.html

- 12.9 bolts for axles & driveshaft...didnt want to take any chances with old bolts.

- took diff cover off so i can strip all the paint off and polish it out then clear coat it. i would think the fins would do there job more efficient without layers of paint.
- clear coated J30 diff cover and hubs w/ Duplicolor high temp clear engine enamel.
- recoated diff housing w/ VHT epoxy spray

JDM180SX

POWERED BY MAX HMIC INSTALL/ TURBO REBUILD/ P/S/ ENGINE REBIRTH:

I ordered the s13 kit w/ s14 cold pipe since thats the closest to my CA18DET setup.all the plumbing is done/ simplified and the shortest lengths possible!
i went ahead and ordered a SR turbo outlet adapter which gave me the perfect height and angle for my hotpipe...STOKED! i also ordered a silicon 45 elbow for cold side which connects pipe to TB. I didnt even have to cut or weld any piping to fit CA.

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?11

- all sharp edges were sealed with door weatherstripping i had laying around...should be no vibrations


- yanked headlights off and of course surface rust under brackets. i wire wheeled it off/ primed & painted flat black so its nice and clean up front.

i had to trim a lot of metal on core support to fit this, but nothing structural
i got motors seperated from headlights and trimmed bracket to fit around I/C. I had to prime and paint with my epoxy spray. i also had the support brackets sandblasted, because they looked like crap with all the overspray.

i prepped oem bumper support to make look new. it was just a gray metal finish before. i went ahead and primed and sprayed it...now its rust proof and looks good for final assembly.

- the intercooler is permanently mounted & radiator installed which fit perfect...no issues. i will not be able to run my shroud, because cold pipe blocks top rad line.













a new addition is a S14 P/S reservoir to loop into my manual rack...just to keep an eye on fluid levels. it also looks newer and cleaner than a metal s13 unit.



dropped my turbo off in Richmond during the spring to get cleaned & rebuilt...luckily i dint need anything major done.

21yrs of carbon buildup on both the rear seal cover and impeller shaft. you can see how that might cause some friction when this is trying to spin and the carbon and oil turn to syrup when the turbo gets hot.

machined polished inside compressor venturie. ( Wasabi_ Pea ) also smoothed out the compressor inlet and outlet.

i didnt want to spend 650-700 on a new Garrett nor buy a ebay turbo. sticking with factory fresh oem for a DD

picked up a new Garrett actuator from Australia.







powdercoated parts from last spring...all done in Nismo silver






high temp powdercoat on heatshield

i dont know why nissan put philips head screws on backside to hold fpr. they wouldnt budge and i started to strip one. i pulled everything out and installed the nismo fpr with new bolts that you can use a wrench on.

DSM 450CC injectors chillin & new NISMO FPR

ive been thinking my rear exhaust side valve cover has been leaking, but i found the culprit. the hose goes back into block was dryrotted and clamp was no where near the right spot... it was so wet from oil up underneath im so glad i found it though... i felt i accomplished something.





I replaced every sensor on car last year as well as getting my ecu remapped by EMANCE. car never hesitated upon startup anymore and ran shit tons better. i also had starter & alternator rebuilt.
22630-51E02- ECU TEMP SENSOR
25080-89903- gauge temp sensor

Daft Punk

omg.....your build threads make me so jealous! fucking love it man. keep it up!

JDM180SX

ENGINE MODS

i went ahead and threw away my last radiator, because i had redone fan setup more than twice and spray painted it black. i wanted a fresh platform so i ordered a new stocker.

wired up thermostatic switch, because it worked so great on last setup.







replaced all my injector and IACV plugs with new BOSCH EV1 style plugs. i soldered and heatshrinked everything along with a semi wire tuck job. all my old plugs were broke and barely making connection. now everything is snapped on with dielectric grease for corrosion...should be no signal loss at all.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...-ev1-p-48.html




i moved about 2ft of engine harness behind dash. the ignitor is now inside along with resistor pack now mounted on firewall. it was up near radiator on frame rail before. everything is tight and tucked together neatly now. i picked up the rubber grommet plugs from ebay seller. i couldnt find anyone in the states that sold the right diameter.

http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/weeone_k/



no more heat! since i dont drive it in the winter anyway.

i simplified 10 coolant lines down to 2 under block. 3/4 QUEST plumbing elbows are the perfect size.
i have the 1 main line coming off near water neck which connects to back of block teed going to turbo line via 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/4 brass quest tee





used steel spacers to push AAV into stock location since i got rid of factory plumbing.






KA24E MODIFIED TB

cut off coolant ports & vac nipple underneath

JB WELDED some plastic upholstery plugs into ports

sprayed TB with VHT EPOXY paint

sprayed aluminum pulley w/ SS spray

cleaned throttle plate and inside TB

NEW gasket & TPS switch along with chrome allen head bolts for dress-up








i got this a/c foam from my hardware store to fill in gap between core support & rad.





i was having a few issues with my top coolant line being kinked, because cold pipe was right on top of it. i cut out a few sections and messed around with the bends and figured out a perfect solution. i finally got my Greddy temp adapt installed so i can keep a second gauge in car just in case factory might fail.






power is finally hooked back up into car. battery is tight, but perfect damn fit. Mobile Spec distribution block for all my hot leads. i went ahead and heat shrinked wires too look oem. i threw the pink ties in there too match lettering on fuse cover. i swear this is the cleanest setup i have ever did and the last time



SARD MAGIC BOX...help with any voltage issues. i also installed a few more grounds on exhaust side of block & tranny.

You are viewing a brand new Magic Box from Sard.

Improve idle, response, low-mid torque and drivability can be achieved with the Magic Box. In addition, static in the audio system will be reduced, power to the lights increased and a cleaner burning, more fuel-efficient engine can be realized.

Simply attach the Sard Magic Box to the car battery and stabilize the voltage going to your car's electrical system, regain lost horsepower, performance, and get better fuel economy!

JDM180SX

INTERIOR:


so ive been picking over this car and finding things to do to preserve its beauty for the future and get 20 more years out of it.

there was some surface rust on alot of interior metal brackets and under the deadener by fuel pump cover.
i had all the misc metal brackets sandblasted @ local garage for dirt cheap. i then primed & painted. i posted weapons of choice.
sometimes just cheap solutions will improve the longetivity of your car. i know people cant see whats behind the plastic panels, but i will know that its done right.


i scraped the sound crap off and grinded rust off and prepped it with rust reformer. i have a whole gallon of bedliner still and i put it to use. it looks and feels alot more rugged back there. i ordered 36sq ft of dynamat so i can do my floor pans/roof/ and wheel humps under speaker trays.


floor pans were stripped and coated with some bedliner i had lying around...
you can see my bling painted shifter plate ring...once again sandblaster & rustoleum paint make quick easy fixes to old/ surface rusted/crusty parts.
got my new rubber shifter boots installed too.

96920-40F00 LID ASSY-FLOOR

74967-35F00 INSULATOR HOLE
74960-35F00 BOOT-CONT LEVER




r-blox 70mil thick sound deadener. heat gun got this stuff so sticky i cant even pull a corner up...awesome! the floor pan feels solid now and less like a tin can.

i also did tire hump area and covered more area than factory.
i will leave back seat area alone, because that stuff is super thick and not loose at all. im going to lay some ensolite over it before i install back seat. picked up ensolite from local vadriven member.












S14 REAR SEAT INTO S13 HATCH: FULL HOW TO GUIDE!

well ive searched and never found any actual guide on how to do it so ill post up my modifications.


1st: you need 2 M8-1.25 X 65MM long bolts w/ washer behind head.
qty ( 2 ) 3/8 ID 2"long spacers
4 thick washers on each side of seat that add up to 5/16 spacer or try to find a spacer that size...i didnt have.
tighten into factory threaded hinge




3rd: use factory seat latch and flip upside down...measure 5" up from straight indented line in metal.
use 10mm bolt w/ lock nut and tighten down latch.
seat should lock into place if done as showed.





4th: push bottom section of seat as far up as you can so its even. hammer the u-shaped metal piece over and use 5/16 self drilling screw w/ washer and tighten down.



5th: use the same shape self drilling bolt & washer combo and screw the metal bracket flat against seat ledge.





6th: you need to find some foam to put under middle of seat, because there is no support there. ENJOY your updated look!



im really happy with my carpet and it feels good to start knocking some of this interior out and getting panels mounted back in car. im sick of looking at parts laying on shelf getting dusty and mice pooping on everything haha.

here i go installing new carpet for the 2nd time...getting to be a pro. the last carpet was setup for the automatic seatbelts and i had s14 seatbelts afterwards so i sold it.

i also picked up manual S14 belts from wISHIHADASILVIA... i sold my last set when i was parting out car.

the 3 tools you need are: sharp ass scissors/ utility knife & drill with 3/4 holesaw.

im so JDM i use Hitachi & Makita...

when you mark holes for seat bolts... put drill in reverse and cut out hole...shit works like gangbusters









local upholsterey shop wrapped my door inserts with black suede and redid my headliner in black cloth with padding.
he has my JDM S14 front seats right now...they are getting BRIDE material down middle inserts.
picked up BRIDE fabric from TOUGE FACTORY & SAGE.

JDM180SX

ELECTRONICS & AUDIO

i finished up power windows...finally. i ordered SPAL kit and whats crazy is they have directions for a 240sx in book. i didnt use them and did it another way. i might not have a/c or heat, but at least i dont have too lean over and roll windows down anymore.




my interior is almost done...just waiting on my front seats to get done. i borrowed rug doctor from work the other night and steam cleaned my rear s14 seats...amazing how much dirt and grime it pulled out.
before i installed my dash and trim i washed all the old dust off the backsides...OCD



i also finished all the electronics and gauges last week. like i said before im building this car more on a budget this time around so i incorporated that into my audio setup. i also wanted a stealth install with no wires running to back of car. everything is self contained behind dash like a factory setup.

- JVC KDR610. It will do everything i need it to do...USB & Satellite ready.
- SPL SPQ20 4 Band Parametric Pre-Amp Equalizer to fine tune the Harman Kardon Toyota JBL amp.
- O4 TOYOTA CAMRY Harman Kardon JBL amp ( 86280-AA072 )...which i mounted to some factory studs behind dash. i got the entire harness which made my life easy. you need 3 Metra harnesses to make work:

1st: standard Nissan harness 70-1763
2nd: standard Toyota reversal harness 71-1761
wires these 2 together and plug in to oem plugs

3rd: toyota amplifier integration harness 70-8113
connect the wires to headunit and plug rca's into headunit or EQ like my setup.

Enjoy your new amplified sound...of course make sure to have some decent aftermarket speakers already installed. all i can say is my new setup sounds just as good as any 3-400 setup i would install for a customer and i have less than 125.00 invested alot of wholesale prices of course.












Infiniti G20 spring activated door pocket below radio


power window switches.

rear speaker adapters...allows a 6.5" speaker too be used.






http://leddomelight.com/





EURO 200SX GAUGE CLUSTER





http://stores.ebay.com/US-Home-Direc...2BSI%26otn%3D4



you need the T3 bulbs for your switches on dash...mine has been burned out forever. now all of them have a white glow to them.



96935-40f10 new oem shift boot


25260-44F00 new light stalk


25540-44F00 new wiper stalk

replaced my ignition switch, because it was messing up sometimes. Victory Nissan rekeyed my new tailgate lock with ignition key.
- alarm brain and relays are all behind dash out of the way too. i hated having everything stuffed underneath steering wheel.

NX2KDET

Looking good jared, I'm gonna try coming down this weekend.

Junon

Great stuff! Your threads always make me miss my 240(s). Are you going with a type-x style?