Instructions on painting a car
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Instructions on painting a car
Okay i have researched as much as i could online but could not find a descriptive source to paint a car
I have a 88 crx si that is in immaculate condition and like most honda;s its primer...ha..I want to paint it myself but i would like to know all the steps..process..etc etc... Can anyone help me out with instructions on how to do this?
I have a 88 crx si that is in immaculate condition and like most honda;s its primer...ha..I want to paint it myself but i would like to know all the steps..process..etc etc... Can anyone help me out with instructions on how to do this?
#4
Re: Instructions on painting a car
For a couple hundred dollars, I'd shoot it for you. You're buying the shit obviously. If you'd rather not go that route, I can give you a quick crash course here.
First off, preperation is 95% of the job. Paint doesn't/won't cover shit, so if you can see it/feel it, it'll show.
I assume that all the "big body work" is outta the way so I guess I'll just go from there. If pieces (ie. mirrors, moldings, emblems) can be removed, do it. Masking off stuff should be a last resort in any situation.
Once that is accomplished you're going to want to spray the car with a sandable primer. (note, the car should be COMPLETELY free of dust, dirt, oil, grease prior to) I typically spray the car with two inital coats of primer so I have a nice "foundation" to start with.
The next thing you're going to want to do is after the primer has dryed (about 3 hours in 70 degrees) is to apply your guide coat. A guide coat can be anything but basically is a contrasting color to the primer, (ie. black) that you LIGHTLY spray/mist/dust the primer with. You do this so that when wet sanding, the black misting will stay in the low areas of the panels while sanding and will give you judgement on how much to keep sanding. When wet sanding, you're going to want to use plenty of water, a soft block, and about 400 grit sand paper. You'll sand to the point where the primer is smooth to the touch. If for some reason, you sand through the primer, you'll have to reshoot that area and repeat the steps just mentioned.
The next step is to obviously prep the panel for paint. It needs to be completely ( I can't stress that enough) clean and dry. Take care never to touch the panel with bare hands due to the oils in your fingers. I use compressed air to clean and dry the car with. The next thing to do is to wash the car with a wax and grease remover. (ie. Pre-cleano, DX330) When you're painting your car, you want to do it in a completely clean room that is free of dust and any silcone (ie. Armor All) that may have been recently misted in the air. It's also a good habit to wet the floor to keep the dust down. Just prior to spraying your base coat, you'll want to wipe off the car with a tack rag which will pick up any dust. Now go ahead and spray your car. Your paint should be mixed (typically) 8 parts paint, to one part catalyst and then reduced by twice. If you have a gun, good, if not I recommend DeVilbiss brand guns. The air compressor is going to need a dryer and regulator on it. Spray at about 55 psi. The first coat should be just a dusting that barely covers the primer. If the initial coat is to thick, it'll run and sag. Apply about 3 coats.
Give the base about 6-8 hours to dry in 70 degrees. The apply the clear. Use compressed air and a tack rag to prepare the car for clear. When finished shoot the clear using the same pressure.
Once that is complete, let the car dry for a good 48 hours. If you have dirt/shit in the paint, (I almost guarantee you will) to get it out, you'll need to color sand. Color sanding works similar to sanding primer, you just use a much finer paper. (ie 1,000-1,400 grit) Use plenty of water and a soft block. You're going to want to be extremely careful while doing this because if you sand through the clear, you'll hate yourself and have to re-clear. When finished sanding, take a finishing material, (ie. 3M Finesse it II) and a orbital buffer to bring the sanded finish to a perfect shine.
Good luck... if you have questions, ask.
First off, preperation is 95% of the job. Paint doesn't/won't cover shit, so if you can see it/feel it, it'll show.
I assume that all the "big body work" is outta the way so I guess I'll just go from there. If pieces (ie. mirrors, moldings, emblems) can be removed, do it. Masking off stuff should be a last resort in any situation.
Once that is accomplished you're going to want to spray the car with a sandable primer. (note, the car should be COMPLETELY free of dust, dirt, oil, grease prior to) I typically spray the car with two inital coats of primer so I have a nice "foundation" to start with.
The next thing you're going to want to do is after the primer has dryed (about 3 hours in 70 degrees) is to apply your guide coat. A guide coat can be anything but basically is a contrasting color to the primer, (ie. black) that you LIGHTLY spray/mist/dust the primer with. You do this so that when wet sanding, the black misting will stay in the low areas of the panels while sanding and will give you judgement on how much to keep sanding. When wet sanding, you're going to want to use plenty of water, a soft block, and about 400 grit sand paper. You'll sand to the point where the primer is smooth to the touch. If for some reason, you sand through the primer, you'll have to reshoot that area and repeat the steps just mentioned.
The next step is to obviously prep the panel for paint. It needs to be completely ( I can't stress that enough) clean and dry. Take care never to touch the panel with bare hands due to the oils in your fingers. I use compressed air to clean and dry the car with. The next thing to do is to wash the car with a wax and grease remover. (ie. Pre-cleano, DX330) When you're painting your car, you want to do it in a completely clean room that is free of dust and any silcone (ie. Armor All) that may have been recently misted in the air. It's also a good habit to wet the floor to keep the dust down. Just prior to spraying your base coat, you'll want to wipe off the car with a tack rag which will pick up any dust. Now go ahead and spray your car. Your paint should be mixed (typically) 8 parts paint, to one part catalyst and then reduced by twice. If you have a gun, good, if not I recommend DeVilbiss brand guns. The air compressor is going to need a dryer and regulator on it. Spray at about 55 psi. The first coat should be just a dusting that barely covers the primer. If the initial coat is to thick, it'll run and sag. Apply about 3 coats.
Give the base about 6-8 hours to dry in 70 degrees. The apply the clear. Use compressed air and a tack rag to prepare the car for clear. When finished shoot the clear using the same pressure.
Once that is complete, let the car dry for a good 48 hours. If you have dirt/shit in the paint, (I almost guarantee you will) to get it out, you'll need to color sand. Color sanding works similar to sanding primer, you just use a much finer paper. (ie 1,000-1,400 grit) Use plenty of water and a soft block. You're going to want to be extremely careful while doing this because if you sand through the clear, you'll hate yourself and have to re-clear. When finished sanding, take a finishing material, (ie. 3M Finesse it II) and a orbital buffer to bring the sanded finish to a perfect shine.
Good luck... if you have questions, ask.
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Re: Instructions on painting a car
Originally Posted by Carter
do you want a professional job? do you have an air compressor, a clean room to paint it in, paint gun?
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Re: Instructions on painting a car
Good luck... if you have questions, ask.[/QUOTE]
I appreciate your help man, i have an aircompressor and a Garage that can be cleaned easily..and i can get a discount on paints at work...Im trying to do charcoal grey on it.. where are you located?
I appreciate your help man, i have an aircompressor and a Garage that can be cleaned easily..and i can get a discount on paints at work...Im trying to do charcoal grey on it.. where are you located?
#7
Re: Instructions on painting a car
Originally Posted by 88 Si Y8 Crix
I appreciate your help man, i have an aircompressor and a Garage that can be cleaned easily..and i can get a discount on paints at work...Im trying to do charcoal grey on it.. where are you located?
also, for best results, it a good idea to stick with the same color. Otherwise, all the engine compartment and door jams will be a different color than the rest of the car. If you plan on jamming the whole car, you have A LOT of work on your hands.
Last edited by Brock Obama; 11-21-2005 at 03:42 PM.
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Re: Instructions on painting a car
Originally Posted by XCELR8
I appreciate your help man, i have an aircompressor and a Garage that can be cleaned easily..and i can get a discount on paints at work...Im trying to do charcoal grey on it.. where are you located?
also, for best results, it a good idea to stick with the same color. Otherwise, all the engine compartment and door jams will be a different color than the rest of the car. If you plan on jamming the whole car, you have A LOT of work on your hands.[/QUOTE]
Man I dont like red
#9
Re: Instructions on painting a car
Originally Posted by 88 Si Y8 Crix
Man I dont like red
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Re: Instructions on painting a car
Originally Posted by XCELR8
I'm not saying you have to keep it red, but if you want to change the color, and have a paint job that looks good with the doors open also. You're getting yourself into a lot of work. Just my 2¢.
How much would you charge...to spray...etc...if i did all prep work?