General track/race car build question thread
#11
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Re: General track/race car build question thread
Couple of things -
I know with NASA you shouldnt even be worried about what Time Trial class you will be in for at least a year and a half - 2 years. It takes that long of working through HPDE's with them.
I would hit up Brett Baker (Axelerate) he used to track his Z before he bought his e30 and could give you alot of pointers.
Also like any car ... whatever you have saftey equipment wise, your instructor needs to have as well. So if you have a seat and a harness, you cant expect your instructor to be in a stock seat/seatbelt.
I would look into the Koni set up as well, its proven, on many many race cars (i dunno if they make them for your car in particular, but if they do def recommend) .... you just need some Koni Streets until you actually want to make the car a full on race car.
Start out on a RS3, or Starspec .... as well as a nice pad .... like a Hawk HP+ .... you can still drive the car on the street and have lots of bite on the track.
I know with NASA you shouldnt even be worried about what Time Trial class you will be in for at least a year and a half - 2 years. It takes that long of working through HPDE's with them.
I would hit up Brett Baker (Axelerate) he used to track his Z before he bought his e30 and could give you alot of pointers.
Also like any car ... whatever you have saftey equipment wise, your instructor needs to have as well. So if you have a seat and a harness, you cant expect your instructor to be in a stock seat/seatbelt.
I would look into the Koni set up as well, its proven, on many many race cars (i dunno if they make them for your car in particular, but if they do def recommend) .... you just need some Koni Streets until you actually want to make the car a full on race car.
Start out on a RS3, or Starspec .... as well as a nice pad .... like a Hawk HP+ .... you can still drive the car on the street and have lots of bite on the track.
#12
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I wanted to run a koni setup at first, but for the Z they cost the same amount as a set of entry level coilover set. Lol.
I've driven on some Hankook RS3s and they're great. I also like star specs.
I've also decided I'm going with a true coilover set up and i can keep the midlink in and replacing it with the toe bolt isn't a need. I was able to get ahold of a very respected Z race car builder in Jersey. JDS motorsport.
I have a diff,coilovers,wheels and tires on my list for this winter.
I've driven on some Hankook RS3s and they're great. I also like star specs.
I've also decided I'm going with a true coilover set up and i can keep the midlink in and replacing it with the toe bolt isn't a need. I was able to get ahold of a very respected Z race car builder in Jersey. JDS motorsport.
I have a diff,coilovers,wheels and tires on my list for this winter.
#13
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Re: General track/race car build question thread
Anyone have experience from switching from divorced rear to a "true coilover system"?
With the "true" I'd be eliminating the rear mid link or spring perch and I know I'd have to get rear toe links and rear camber links to replace. This all seems to be a huge extra expense when no one on the Z forum can give me a clear cut advantage to switching to the "true" other than..."well the more expensive coilovers are true" and the always famous "you get what you pay for"
With the "true" I'd be eliminating the rear mid link or spring perch and I know I'd have to get rear toe links and rear camber links to replace. This all seems to be a huge extra expense when no one on the Z forum can give me a clear cut advantage to switching to the "true" other than..."well the more expensive coilovers are true" and the always famous "you get what you pay for"
But, there is no reason that a separate spring and damper can't work as well as a coilover for your application. If you want to go with many of the high-end dampers, you'll probably have to convert to a coilover. But until then, there isn't a compelling reason to do so. That's the reason my answer wasn't clearcut; there is not black-and-white answer about why coilovers are theoretically better, because better depends on what you're trying to improve.
Last edited by Fabrik8; 08-26-2012 at 08:03 PM.
#14
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I think either application will work. I've tracked this car stock and it performs well. I want to be able to lower it and adjust the dampening. Which can be achieved with both. I'm not trying to sink I bunch of money into it because my ultimate goal is to get a dedicated track car
#15
Re: General track/race car build question thread
Lowering a car doesn't automatically help the handling. A decent set of coilovers should have settings for rebound and jounce. Honestly, if fun track time is what you're aiming for, look into spec miata. You're confined to what you can change (cheap) and its fender to fender racing that's cheap. (Miata's can take some abuse)
#16
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Re: General track/race car build question thread
They just recently added a Spec Z class
But yea a Miata is most likely by biggest ambition for the winter
But yea a Miata is most likely by biggest ambition for the winter
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#19
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Re: General track/race car build question thread
Do nothing... make sure you have some tread on the tires, 1/2 brake pad thickness or greater, no fluid leaks, and go start running HPDEs. As you get familiar with on-track driving you'll learn what you want out of the car and can tailor your mods to that based on actual experience vs. what "this guy on the internet" says you need. Also, if building a car always build to a specific class and have an end goal in mind. Spec350Z is perfect for your car. All too many people mod up a car, get into tracking it, then try and find what class it fits in, only to find they're in an unlimited class that they don't have the budget or skills to compete in.
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