ODU_Lude

So, in debating my all motor build, I'm torn between spending lots of money on Jun cams or not as much on crowers.



what makes Jun cams that much better (if they are) ?

so, crower stage 2 cams vs jun counterpart



can I hear some comparisons?

The real Ryan

I'm sure the amount of R&D that does into the design has something to do with it. But I know for a fact that Jun and Toda uses an OEM core when making the cam as opposed to a company like Skunk 2 that uses another material. So with the OEM core you get the OEM reliability. I don't know about Crowers construction. Look into it. But Crower has been around forever.

RPRacing

the material is only 1 of many things to consider.

-What is the best lift/duration/overlap for your build?
-Are your cams designed to work with your spring/retainer/keeper setup?
-Will the company be able to provide YOU (not whoever you bought the cams from) support?
-Has the company been around long enough to make mistakes and learn from them?
-Does the company test cams enough to produce a good product?
-Did the company design these cams, or just steal someone elses R&D and copy them?

thats some stuff that matters

madsteez

Fuck Skunk 2 they dont back their products.


PS. if you want help deciding which cams to run,post up your set up,goals and intentions.

Is this going to be a full on build or are you going to piece it together while continuing to drive the car?

Check my motor thread. Take into consideration I ran skunk 2 tuner series cams and made 212whp very safetly and on a somewhat conservative tune,I.E. daily driven 4 door.

RPRacing

when my cams broke like yours, they didnt cover it because it was installer error. when my other cams broke in 3 places, the covered them.

(to the OP in case you are scared) mind you. I beat the hell out of my motors, so its a lot different than a street motor

madsteez

Well nothing was wrong with it,they were in the car running ever since you did my valve adjustment. The bolt was tight which holds the gears onto the cam.

RPRacing

just another reason why i always keep the parts the same brand, cams, springs/ret, gears. always get new OE honda cam bolts and keyways too. the little price you pay for those, save you later on.

ODU_Lude

hey, thanks for posting guys.

its gonna be a daily driven car. I'd prefer it to be a full on build, everything go in at once.

I'm looking to do only head work... so something safe to drive on a stock h22a4 block.

so, i guess that would entail cams, valvesprings, retainers, and all those goodies. as far as cam lift and all that stuff, i'd love to learn about that to figure it out, but i have no idea. haha.

I talked to slogsr (brent) a couple times about his built k20 head with crower cams... and he recently blew piston rings, he said, so, that's something i'm looking to avoid as well.

it will obviously need tuning afterwards, but i'm looking to do it right before all that.

madsteez

Its not like I ran cheap shit. I choose brand which have a good rep for performance parts. I.E. Golden Eagle,Supertech,Portflow and Manley.

None of those parts broke.




Just get springs and retainers that you feel comfortable making power with. Im running Supertech and the springs and retainers are awesome,havent given out on my yet at 9k,and still have plenty of power to be made. PLEASE get Manley hardened locks,titanium retainers are a great choice as well. Im not sure about the compression and dome height of an H22a4,but look for cams that have been ran safetly on those blocks. You dont want cams that are so agressive that you may float a valve(cheaps springs/retainers/locks) or even cause some interference between the valves and pistons.

If I were you I would go with stage 2 tuner series,they make the best top end power for a very streetable cam. The stage 1's will make more lower end power but thats not a problem with a 2.4 liter.

Like others are saying,take into consideration the compression,higher of the compression the more of an agrezzive cam i would go with,that away you dont over cam.

First thing is first- Cam duration means how long the valve stays open,the larger the duration the higher the power band and peak power.

Cam lift- How far away from the seat the valve actually moves,common sense,the more the valve opens the higher of the peak power and torque.

Please dont think that getting cams with a higher lift,will make you more power,just because the valves are opening more doesnt meaning your going to be gaining. You need an intake manifold with good size runners to support the increase in lift.

LSA- Lobe Seperation Angle-basically its the distance between the intake and exhaust lobe,the tighter the lobe angle the shorter the delay of the valves at TDC. You can imagine this simply by thinking of how long a particular is at TDC. It will cause the exhaust valves to stay open less(less delay) and the intake valves to stay open less. The tigther the overlap you get less delay,the looser the overlap you get more of a delay. Also this affects how both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time and same amount.
More overlap usually the higher power band up in the rpm range. Once again this can gain peak power,but in return you need to have a very well flowing and well designed header to respond with the increase in exhaust pressure and release.

You can increase the the overlap by having cams with larger durations or simply by adjusting the LSA

Smaller of the LSA usually raises the peak power,but lowers the torque,which is why you need to determine your power band.




In your case you should go with a medium duration(stage 2) with a wider seperation angle(LSA)

Try to stay around a cam with a duration of 260-265 and lift of about 12.0-12.5

This is in my opinion of course,sorry if the wording sucks.

RPRacing

but answer yourself this, if you were skunk, and had a customer drop $2-3k on Skunk parts. then them have a problem like you did. dont you think they'd be more apt to help a loyal customer? Also, setups like yours are common from (no offense to you) cheap asses who skimp on doing shit correctly. engine builders do not get x springs x valves and x cams because they are best. they pick the company who they want to use on a build and design around there. Skunk probably saw you as a cheap ass who probably slacked elsewhere.

thats my $.02 and i've seen it soooooooo many times. sorry