View Full Version : vtec not kicking in
99crx
12-25-2007, 02:41 PM
everything is wired correctly and i had vtec for about 2 months and now it doesnt kick in and the only change i made was putting in gsr cams. any ideas tach works speedo works and everything else that needs to work for vtec
Evil SVT
12-25-2007, 02:49 PM
Maybe your decals are peeling off.
chucky22
12-25-2007, 03:16 PM
[QUOTE=Evil SVT;3685880]Maybe your decals are peeling off.[/QUOTe
not at all funny hoss! You got oil? Are you sure there gsr cams?
1rude2l
12-25-2007, 03:31 PM
got enough oil in the motor? check the valve adjustment when you installed the cams?
nagger
12-25-2007, 05:24 PM
oil pressure, then check your wiring again if no luck.
tatmonster
12-25-2007, 05:57 PM
<<< Are you sure there gsr cams?>>>>
Whatever he put in there HAS to be Vtec cams otherwise they wouldnt fit lol. Aww damn Rick, we put the LS cams in. FUCK!!! No VTEC now
team703
12-25-2007, 06:00 PM
Did you check to see if your coolant sensor is working? my friends crx had no vtec when his cooling sensor went bad
DORKO
12-25-2007, 06:52 PM
Did you check to see if your coolant sensor is working? my friends crx had no vtec when his cooling sensor went bad
honestly i dont think that has anything to do with vtec.
i could be wrong tho.
QUICKVIII
12-25-2007, 08:04 PM
Do you have a check engine light on? If not hook a test light up to the wire going to the vtec solenoid, drive the car past the point where vtec normally engages. Did the test light come on? If it did pull the vtec solenoid and inspect it, clean it out etc... try the same test again. Also you can bring the RPMs up in the driveway and use a wire to jump from the positive post on the battery to the vtec solenoid, does the engine engage vtec?
team703
12-25-2007, 08:33 PM
honestly i dont think that has anything to do with vtec.
i could be wrong tho.
Actually vtec doesn't kick in until the engine is at normal operating temp so if your coolant sensor isn't working then the ecu will probably beleive the car is constantly running cold and not at normal operating temp. Trust me my friends crx with a b16 had this problem. His temp guage read cold all the time and his vtec wasn't working and he replaced the coolant sensor and car started to run at normal temps and vtec was working again.
And Vtec doesn't kick in when the car is in neutral so how would him revving in the driveway help??
99crx
12-25-2007, 11:40 PM
there is no check engine light, i do have enough oil i have adjusted my valves twice since i put the cams in. and yes my coolant temp is workin. i guess the only thing i can do is check out the vtec soloniod. and evil don waste my post
murphy660
12-26-2007, 12:23 AM
to check vtec solenoid. connect a piece of wire to pos. terminal on battery then touch it on the single green wire (Vtec solenoid not the oil pressure sensor.) if it clicks the sol. should be good.
also even though your temp gauge works the ECT plug could be broken or corroded which plugs into your thermostat housing.
QUICKVIII
12-26-2007, 01:10 AM
Also you can bring the RPMs up in the driveway and use a wire to jump from the positive post on the battery to the vtec solenoid, does the engine engage vtec?Read the post before questioning something 703
BAD4DR
12-26-2007, 07:54 AM
honestly i dont think that has anything to do with vtec.
i could be wrong tho.
Okay
VTEC relies on 3-4 primary things in the computer:
First check, is a temperature check. So if it's not warmed up, and this has not been disabled, it won't cut on.
Secondly, it looks at oil pressure. If the oil pressure is not high enough, it will not engage. (Now, many Honda motors are older, never re-built, and converted to LS/VTEC for instance. Or, swapped into a non-VTEC car. No history on the motor is given, and the motor can have an excess of wear. This requires a new oil pump, or slightly thicker viscosity oil to get it to kick in because of the pressure. Or, possibly, the oil pressure sending unit has failed, but that should cut the light on.)
Third, it looks at speed. If you don't have enough RPM it won't kick on. (I'm sure that's been tested in this case!)
Some of them can look at the solenoid itself, and determine whether it should be running VTEC. Self-testing on late model vehicles FTW!
After all of that, assuming everything is right, the solenoid is probably bad...But.... anyways.
Lord Humongous
12-26-2007, 09:56 AM
Maybe your decals are peeling off.
I LOLd
Fabrik8
12-26-2007, 11:45 AM
Check the pressure switch close to the VTEC solenoid. It's just a go/no-go switch that tells the ECU if there is sufficient oil pressure to engage VTEC. Grab a factory service manual and start going through the troubleshooting steps for the VTEC system.
PiGPEN
12-26-2007, 12:16 PM
vtec not kicking in
oh fuck
Slow EG8
12-26-2007, 01:29 PM
if all fails try to jump blue wire And green wire together. this will bypass oil pressure .this is what you do for jdm solends.
Verbal
12-26-2007, 02:01 PM
Maybe your decals are peeling off.
You are a stupid fucker, why even bother posting...when you obvioulsy don't know a damn thing.
I LOLd
Another smart one. :thup:
Check the pressure switch close to the VTEC solenoid. It's just a go/no-go switch that tells the ECU if there is sufficient oil pressure to engage VTEC. Grab a factory service manual and start going through the troubleshooting steps for the VTEC system.
I am leaning towards this as well. Its usually oil related. (Unless you unhooked some wires doing the cam swap)
This wouldn't matter too much, but did you re-set your valves after installing the cams.
Did it work at all after swapping cams? I have seen people swap out ITR cams that were damaged, after runnning for a bit, metal shavings blocked the screen going into the solenoid. No more VTEC.
Black Nugget
12-26-2007, 06:06 PM
Maybe your decals are peeling off.
DragVa.net is still available, perhaps they'll understand your ignorance there.
99crx
12-26-2007, 10:52 PM
You are a stupid fucker, why even bother posting...when you obvioulsy don't know a damn thing.
Another smart one. :thup:
I am leaning towards this as well. Its usually oil related. (Unless you unhooked some wires doing the cam swap)
This wouldn't matter too much, but did you re-set your valves after installing the cams.
Did it work at all after swapping cams? I have seen people swap out ITR cams that were damaged, after runnning for a bit, metal shavings blocked the screen going into the solenoid. No more VTEC.
yes i reset my valves. yes it worked after the cams installed but b4 i changed my cams my intake cam locked on me and it chewed up my b16 cam so i am thinking that there might be some metal in my screen i never thought about that until u mentioned it so thanks.
Secondly, it looks at oil pressure. If the oil pressure is not high enough, it will not engage. (Now, many Honda motors are older, never re-built, and converted to LS/VTEC for instance. Or, swapped into a non-VTEC car. No history on the motor is given, and the motor can have an excess of wear. This requires a new oil pump, or slightly thicker viscosity oil to get it to kick in because of the pressure. Or, possibly, the oil pressure sending unit has failed, but that should cut the light on.)
my motor is just rebuilt with not even 500 miles on it and my oil pressure sending unit has never been hooked up is that a requirement for vtec to work? i do have an manual oil pressure gague so i can see my oil pressure and when im driving it is around 65 to 70 psi is that enough?
Fabrik8
12-26-2007, 10:59 PM
It sounds like your oil pressure is fine, but if your VTEC pressure switch isn't hooked up (or bypassed) the ECU won't engage the VTEC solenoid.
99crx
12-26-2007, 11:04 PM
It sounds like your oil pressure is fine, but if your VTEC pressure switch isn't hooked up (or bypassed) the ECU won't engage the VTEC solenoid.
that is hooked up i though u guyz meant the oil pressure sensor on the back of the motor
Verbal
12-27-2007, 12:04 AM
that is hooked up i though u guyz meant the oil pressure sensor on the back of the motor
I would check your screen, see if that is your problem. If everything else checks out, thats where i'd go. I would also source another one you know works and swap it out. (Vtec solenoid) I have had the one on the block come unhooked and it never had an ill effect.
Sounds like you have plenty of oil pressure through the motor.
Curious, did you get your head machined after the cam problem..if not it will probably occur again.
b16 snatch
12-27-2007, 12:20 AM
I LOLd
:hi: Your avatar is funny but otherwise your a useless disease infested fuck-stick.
QUICKVIII
12-27-2007, 08:31 AM
Now you tell us it locked a cam? My bet is on the fact the cam journals are damaged, the head is puking oil pressure past the damaged journal, coupled with the fact the screen has metal. Shit I'd say take it to someone who can diagnose this, but also you say the engine was rebuilt 500 miles ago! Could be issues with rebuild, what about the engine builder? Can he help you? Man so many questions now.... Most likely if it did lock the cam, fixing that head will be more expensive than replacing it with another.
jlgrtype
12-27-2007, 09:35 PM
there are two temperature switches and one temperature sending unit. did you check the right one. after reaching operating temperature you can use a multimeter for continuity in the sending unit to make sure it is working.
99crx
12-27-2007, 10:13 PM
yes i got my head machined and checked out the journals are messed up once it shut off i didnt try to start it so nothing was messed up with my journals. but thanks im gonna go with the screen and my vtec plate.
Verbal
12-28-2007, 01:27 PM
Let me know what you find. :thup:
99crx
12-29-2007, 01:29 PM
check screen no metal in in but when i put power to my solionid i dont hear any clicking at all. so from what im guessing i need a solinoid let me know who has one in nova area please
Tim-Tim
01-19-2008, 01:49 AM
is that what was wrong? my car isnt engaging in vtec either.
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